Tiling for Bathroom - help please

Morning all

We have moved into our new home and we are having both bathrooms replaced. We have the suite already, and the builders are doing the rest. The only thing we have to supply is the tiles, and grout. We are having fully tiled walls and floors.

Having never bought tiles before, some questions:

1. How do you work out a reasonable estimate as to how much you need? I have measured the rooms obviously, but will need to deduct for the bath, cistern, cabinets sink etc. It's not easy!

2. For ease I will have to get the tiles from a B&Q, Homebase etc. Any other places I should consider, and any deals out there? Should I be asking for a discount?
Also, can you return unused tiles for a refund?

3. Any specific Grout type needed?

4. We are planning on having tiles on the floor as well- any type of underlay or tile type that won't make them freezing cold in winter? The downstairs bathroom has a concrete floor so it would be particularly acute there I would think.

Thanks for reading, and any advice welcomed!

Larry
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Comments

  • Marksy
    Marksy Posts: 53 Forumite
    As a rule, you'd allow +10% more tiles anyway, for cuts, breakages and to keep a few back in case any are broke at a later date.

    So I'd ignore the cistern/sink etc - we've always had them tiled behind anyway. Bath wise, measure the height and length and take that area off your total area.. but bear in mind the usual 10% "rule".
  • grizzly1911
    grizzly1911 Posts: 9,965 Forumite
    larry1981 wrote: »
    Morning all

    We have moved into our new home and we are having both bathrooms replaced. We have the suite already, and the builders are doing the rest. The only thing we have to supply is the tiles, and grout. We are having fully tiled walls and floors.

    Having never bought tiles before, some questions:

    1. How do you work out a reasonable estimate as to how much you need? I have measured the rooms obviously, but will need to deduct for the bath, cistern, cabinets sink etc. It's not easy!

    Depends on size of tile we did two and went fro 200/100 tiles and added 15% for wastage/cuts/breakages which for us was sufficient over 40 + sq metres.

    Wall to ceiling x 4. deduct for behind bath, and windows but don't forget surround. Deduct any doors but don't forget the bit above them.


    We tiled fully before installing units and cisterns etc. Looks better when you open the cupboards IMO.



    2. For ease I will have to get the tiles from a B&Q, Homebase etc. Any other places I should consider, and any deals out there? Should I be asking for a discount?
    Also, can you return unused tiles for a refund?

    We used B&Q as they had what we wanted and gave us flexibility. For what we wanted they were very competitive. No we didin't ask for discount. We looked at discount sheds but weren't confident of volume available and they weren't any better on price. We looked at the big name distributors, they had some nice high end stuff but wasn't what we wanted.

    Yes B&Q will accept returns of full packs, 45 day time limit.


    3. Any specific Grout type needed?

    Waterproof flexible antifungal, microban. We used a dry Mapei grout 5kg dry, easy to mix up. We use a shower proof adhesive, again Mapei for the main bath/shower zone and a normal waterproof bathroom/kitchen adhesive for the outer zones.

    4. We are planning on having tiles on the floor as well- any type of underlay or tile type that won't make them freezing cold in winter? The downstairs bathroom has a concrete floor so it would be particularly acute there I would think.

    Both our bathrooms were upstairs on wooden floors and we didn't go for underfloor heating.We did overlay the floorboards with waterproof plywood, screwed down at 6" centres, sealed with a PVA mix. Depending on the quality of floorboards recommendations for ply thickness vary from 9mm to 18mm. On some new large boarded floors I believe you can dispense with the ply. For the floor adhesive we used a Unibond flexible dry mix. Bit more messy to mix and made up in batches that we knew we could lay. For the grout we used a the same grout as for the walls but in a similar colour to the tiles, check it will fill the extra gap used for floor tiles.

    Thanks for reading, and any advice welcomed!

    Larry

    Don't forget to add tile edging, for the external corners and any open edges.

    The tiles are often the cheapest bit of the bundle, adhesive , grout and trim mount up too.

    Apart from choosing the tiles and buying them have you asked the builder for his recommendations?
    "If you act like an illiterate man, your learning will never stop... Being uneducated, you have no fear of the future.".....

    "big business is parasitic, like a mosquito, whereas I prefer the lighter touch, like that of a butterfly. "A butterfly can suck honey from the flower without damaging it," "Arunachalam Muruganantham
  • diable
    diable Posts: 5,258 Forumite
    Most tile places allow returns so don't worry about having to many tiles left over.

    Don't buy ready mixed adhesive as the loose bagged stuff is cheaper.

    Are you having a bath panel supplied as I boxed my bath in and had it tiled.

    Consider Mapei (sp) grout as they also supply the mastic in the same colour so the finish all round is better.

    Have a look here as this is my reno thread.

    https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/3057402
  • larry1981
    larry1981 Posts: 28 Forumite
    Above posters

    Many thanks for your replies, truly a wealth of good advice. Particular thanks to grizzly for his essay!

    The builder is providing all other materials, we just have to supply the grout and tiles, as these are down to colour and personal taste I guess. I have asked whether tile edging is included or not.

    I have had a brief look around the chain store websites, and B&Q has a tiny range, whereas Homebase has a bigger range and a sale on, which may be worth a look. Will also investigate Topps Tiles to see.

    Any other suggestions on the concrete floor/tiles cold feet problem?
  • arbrighton
    arbrighton Posts: 2,011 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary Combo Breaker
    We had something called aquastep put down in our new bathroom, which is like laminate flooring but suitable for wet areas. Much warmer underfoot.
  • aggypanthus
    aggypanthus Posts: 1,579 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Go to a tile shop where they will give you best advice on products, also they will have a full range of coloured grouts to choose from.. jasmine is very nice instead of white. the tiler should be advising you, that way he wont be disgruntled by the customer presenting him with the wrong products. why cant the tiler get them for you at trade price then charge you? also try a builders merchants.
  • Sprigs
    Sprigs Posts: 9 Forumite
    edited 12 July 2012 at 5:00PM
    I've just finished a small fully tiled bathroom (plumber put in Bath, I did the rest).

    One thing to be careful of in the upstairs bathroom is that it is NOT a good idea to tile directly onto floorboards. I considered Water Proof ply, but was concerned about the depth recommended. After reading through a lot of Tilers Forum posts I chose HardieBacker boards (6mm water proof plaster board) on top of the existing floorboards (once I'd screwed them all down securely). Chose them over other similar products only because their size best fit my space with minimal cuts. Mapei Flexible adhesive (Keraflex Maxi S1 - not rapid set) used between Hardiebacker and floorboards, then again between Hardiebacker and tiles.
    Floor height was slightly raised, so I had to buy a new transition strip and remove door and plane it.

    I chose Mapei based on reviews, grout colours and a good, cheapish independent supplier nearby (Slough). Checked on Mapei website that the wall adhesive was ok for shower/bathroom. Also Grouts chosen for water/mould resistance. Choosing a coloured grout, take the tiles with you, shops wouldn't part with their colour cards.

    Concur with the sizing advice - tile behind everything you can (apart from bath) is easiest anyway - less tile cutting.
    Assuming you have windows in the rooms, worth looking at 'tile trim' - mine looks much better than it did before just using tiles to edge it.

    I got all my tiles from Wickes because I liked what they had when I went in. I chose a rough surfaced floor tile to avoid any risk of slipping. I've been in several chains since - Tile Giant etc - and not regretted my choice.

    Considered putting in underfloor heating but didn't bother in the end, just bought a bathmat - only winter will prove me right or wrong.
  • shown73
    shown73 Posts: 1,268 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    As already said, the tiler should be advising you. Colour, style, or acc's are your choice, but he's the expert when it comes to quantity, grout, etc., so it would be best to work with him, wouldn't it?
  • tired_dad
    tired_dad Posts: 636 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper
    We found tiling the most difficult issue. The choice is endless. Every chap has their own idea of what adhesive, what grout etc. Couple of the guys we had round recommended ditra matting under floor tiles.

    Good luck. Do post pics
  • evokit
    evokit Posts: 261 Forumite
    Only buy white adhesive if going for a white tile, cost about £4 extra a bag, only minus the bath for working out amount.
    work out the whole sq mtr of the room including windows and leave them in for your % extra.
    We got our 60 x 30 porcelain tiles and adhesive and grout off the same supplier on ebay, tiles worked out at £12 per sq mtrs, adheisive was about £10 per bag grout less 1 x postage and saved £100's than going to a shed. B&Q were doing the same tiles for £35 sq mtr at the time, so adds up.
    Theres also this good place online for tile trim

    http://www.floorandwallsolutions.co.uk/

    Shaved £'s off sheds, but rem in mind the pnp and still quids in
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