CH advice-fitting TRVs & where to buy?

never_enough

Can anyone point me in the direction of a site with instructions for fitting TRVs? All but one of ours are useless & I think I *may* be able to manage this myself without breaking anything? :eek:

Also should I be ok with cheap ones, or is it best to go with a certain make? Ours were all plastic & the cap bit has broken &/or they turn round but don't change temp.

If I wimp out how much would a plumber charge to do it? I'm not sure how big a job it is, I have 10 rads.

Btw, we have an electric timer for the water & the heating & it has no effect whatsoever on either. It's set, but it doesn't seem to do anything other than act as a clock! Any ideas? It looks quite modern. Who would I need to take a look, an electrician or a c-heating plumber type bod? :think:
Thanks
:EasterBun

ormus

fairly simple job. drain the system, fit the trvs and refill. bleed the rads.
i dont think theres much difference between the usual names.
try screwfix, wickes, or places like plumbworld?

re the timer clock? could be faulty or more likely a sensor/stat fault.
prob a plumber job rather than a sparks.

ormus

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=26100&ts=63322

these are the ones i use/have.

courtjester

I used to do loads of DIY in my earlier days, but I've definitely joined the GSI (get someone in) brigade now on these types of jobs. It would probably take a plumber little more than a morning to fix the TRV's and the timer /clock sounds like a replacement - possibly even a previous DIY job botched and not wired properly.

Fitting TRV's sounds easy, but typical of DIY, you can never tell what problem you might run into getting the old ones off, cleaning up the joints and getting it all to fit back together, particularly if some of the rads ar ein difficult access positions.

We had a plumber replace ours and I know that they had one devil of a job just getting all the air out of the central heating when it was re-filled - some kind of airlock with the hot water tank, not just bleeding rad valves - we have a 'modern' house but the standard of the original plumbing is pants.

After several attempts, they eventually fitted an automatic air-bleed valve thingy in the airing cupboard which magically fixed the problem and work since has gone very smoothly.

I thought I'd seen somewhere approximate cost of around £20 per valve fitted? - this would put the plumbing charge at £200 approx for 10 valves, which I would say is worth it for the saving in hassle - even if it is not money saving.

Canucklehead

Hi

What is the make and model of your timer.? Digital or mechanical?

Corgi Guy.

coolagarry

My TRV's are the old type which come straight out from the bottom of the radiator rather than at right angles. One or other of them sticks now and again and I find that if I take the TRV control knob off then I can see a small stainless steel 'needle' sticking out. This moving in and out allows water in or stops it as required.
I grab the end with pliars (shielded with a bit of material so that the teeth do not damage the 'needle') and push it in and out several times to 'free' it. I then oil it and replace the radiator valve and the heating is back on again in that radiator for a couple of years.
This may be your problem ?

greyteam1959

Re the TRVs
Why not see if you can just replace the 'plastic bit' ???
Should be a bit cheaper.

never_enough

Canucklehead wrote: »

Hi

What is the make and model of your timer.? Digital or mechanical?

Corgi Guy.

It's a digital one. Made by Honeywell & the only model number I can see is ST6400C (it says setting your ST6400C on the lid that flips down) Is that it?

Canucklehead

Hi

Yes . If the thing lights up when calling for heat or hot water then it should be working ok. The mechanical timers sometimes fail to mechanically move the contacts that fire the system.
What you are looking for is someone who can do heating electrics. That might be an electrician ,plumber or heating installer.it doesn't matter as long as they can do it and be safe.

T.R.V. s
You want 9 valves. The rad nearest the room stat will be left on normal valves.
You can go from £16 each for Drayton valves down to screwfix prices They all do the same job.The only difference between Drayton and the others is that Drayton use a liquid capsule in the head and the others use wax. Liquid being more responsive to temperature change.(how you would notice the difference is another matter!)
As for DIY, it depends how confidant you feel.Once you have done one then you soon get the hang of it.!!

Good luck
Corgi Guy.

never_enough

Canucklehead wrote: »

Hi

Yes . If the thing lights up when calling for heat or hot water then it should be working ok. The mechanical timers sometimes fail to mechanically move the contacts that fire the system.
What you are looking for is someone who can do heating electrics. That might be an electrician ,plumber or heating installer.it doesn't matter as long as they can do it and be safe.

Good luck
Corgi Guy.

Thanks for that. I've got to get an electrician in to put in some lights in under my kitchen cupboards & in the bathroom because of the part p thingy, so I'll ask if they can do that at the same time.

never_enough

coolagarry wrote: »

My TRV's are the old type which come straight out from the bottom of the radiator rather than at right angles. One or other of them sticks now and again and I find that if I take the TRV control knob off then I can see a small stainless steel 'needle' sticking out. This moving in and out allows water in or stops it as required.
I grab the end with pliars (shielded with a bit of material so that the teeth do not damage the 'needle') and push it in and out several times to 'free' it. I then oil it and replace the radiator valve and the heating is back on again in that radiator for a couple of years.
This may be your problem ?

I think mine are the same type, so I'll give that a go.
Thanks