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Garden Tap: Should I sleeve the copper pipe through the wall?

Avoriaz
Posts: 39,110 Forumite
Our house was built in 2004 with a garden tap fed by an apparently unsleeved copper pipe through the brick wall.
I am fitting a new garden tap in a different place. It is a purpose designed tap with an attached 300mm length of 15mm copper pipe.
Should I just drill a 16mm hole and fit the pipe through the hole or should I drill a larger hole and sleeve the 15mm copper pipe in a slightly larger plastic or copper pipe? I am considering using 20mm electrical conduit pipe but I don’t want to waste time and effort if this is unnecessary.
I am getting conflicting views on internet DIY forums (no great surprise).
Without sleeving the copper may be exposed to corrosion from the cement etc in the wall and friction wear from movement due to expansion and contraction etc.
I suppose I could use plastic pipe but I prefer to use the kit I already have.
Thanks
I am fitting a new garden tap in a different place. It is a purpose designed tap with an attached 300mm length of 15mm copper pipe.
Should I just drill a 16mm hole and fit the pipe through the hole or should I drill a larger hole and sleeve the 15mm copper pipe in a slightly larger plastic or copper pipe? I am considering using 20mm electrical conduit pipe but I don’t want to waste time and effort if this is unnecessary.
I am getting conflicting views on internet DIY forums (no great surprise).
Without sleeving the copper may be exposed to corrosion from the cement etc in the wall and friction wear from movement due to expansion and contraction etc.
I suppose I could use plastic pipe but I prefer to use the kit I already have.
Thanks
0
Comments
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It's all about balance!
Strictly speaking there is a tiny risk. The issue as I see it for you is that the additional dia hole is going to affect your fixings on the outside around the female iron socket the tap goes into. Personally I'd not bother BUT make sure you put a decent iso valve inside.
With the kind of weather we now get one should really put in a drain point outside so it can be correctly and completely drained during cold weather. Its your house however so you decide.
Have fun.:whistle: All together now, "Always look on the bright side of life..." :whistle:0 -
Thanks for that. I didn't see much of a risk. Maybe I will paint the pipe with a metal primer to give it some protection from corrosion. Or will that cause more problems than it solves?
I will be installing a drain but it will be inside under the kitchen sink where I am teeing off from the rising main. That will be neater as everything will be hidden. I can close the service valve I will also install, open the outside tap, then open the inside drain (tap side of the service valve) and drain off the water in the supply pipe.0 -
Plumbing feeds through walls should always be sheathed in a protective outer.
Drill a hole to accept a 22mm copper pipe and feed your 15mm through this.
You'll probably need an SDS drill to do this.
Seal both ends with silicon to allow for expansion and prevent ingress of anything.0 -
Fed_Up_Tradesman wrote: »Plumbing feeds through walls should always be sheathed in a protective outer..
Was that standard practice in 2004?
If not how did it pass the buildings inspector or whoever?
Have the regulations changed since 2004?0 -
Nobody told the "plumber" who fitted the tap when the house was built. It dates from construction and wasn't fitted afterwards.
Was that standard practice in 2004?
If not how did it pass the buildings inspector or whoever?
Have the regulations changed since 2004?
I've given you my advice for free. My secondary advice is that you take my initial advice.
In response to your further questions:
Yes it was standard practice in 2004.
Why do you presume that a Building Inspector, inspects buildings?
Do you honestly expect one or two chaps from your local council to inspect every inch of every new build in their area?
No the regulations / best practice haven't changed since 2004.0 -
I think you should take his secondary advice then his initial advice
He is quite correct. It will be damaged by the lime in the cement if you don't.You have been reading.....another magnificent post by garethgas :beer:0 -
FUT, I would expect a new development of over 100 houses by a major house builder built in 2004/5 to have attracted the attention of the responsible "chaps" from the local authority would take over £2,000 per annum from every house in that new development. I would expect those “chaps” to reasonably ensure that work was done according to the prevailing regulations etc.
However my main concern is simply whether to sleeve or not to sleeve and so far I have one yes and one no.
Such is life on the internet.0 -
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Fed up. As I have already said strictly speaking it should be sheathed.
But then I'm a pragmatist too. If he drills for a 22mm sheath he'll not be able to fix it!!!
I'll go with my original advice BUT if you are concerned wrap it with insulating tape and be VERY careful when you feed it through so as NOT to damage the covering. The pragmatists answer.:whistle: All together now, "Always look on the bright side of life..." :whistle:0 -
I would follow, with respect to others, Fed_Up_Tradesman, his advice is simple and clear cut. You are then covering all your options in one go.
You just cannot beat listening to the 'experienced'
regards
BobUK0
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