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Freesat and Freeview wall socket
Comments
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Kurtis_Blue wrote: »Its not an issue, correctly installed quality sockets and cable will be fine dB loss is minimal, possibly immeasurable.
However if its a DIY job then maybe best left out if not required, as is seen often on these forums and in the field, more connectors = more problems.
Average loss per connection is 1.5dB for an F Connection & 3dB for a splitter,so if you have a splitter fitted,then you are loosing around 6dB.(3dB for the splitter & 3dB for the 2x F Connections)
A barreled joint will loose around 3dB.0 -
Average loss per connection is 1.5dB for an F Connection & 3dB for a splitter,so if you have a splitter fitted,then you are loosing around 6dB.(3dB for the splitter & 3dB for the 2x F Connections)
A barreled joint will loose around 3dB.
Why would you have a splitter fitted? I know that these figures are quoted but it really is negligible if carried out correctly, however we have all seen shoddy Fs, and sockets.
I challenge you to measure a barrel joint loss with any degree of accuracy when installed in good few meters of cable from a mini dish, I'm sure you still have your sky meters.0 -
Kurtis_Blue wrote: »Why would you have a splitter fitted? I know that these figures are quoted but it really is negligible if carried out correctly, however we have all seen shoddy Fs, and sockets.
I challenge you to measure a barrel joint loss with any degree of accuracy when installed in good few meters of cable from a mini dish, I'm sure you still have your sky meters.
Figures I gave were rough geustimates going by a cable set up,splitter was just an example for on an set up where the incoming aerial signal is say split in the loft & goes to two locations..I do still have my meter but it's !!!!!!ed at the moment,needs either a new battery or charger..0 -
I find messing with Diplexors (or even Triplexors) and combiners an unnecessary bother, introduces signal loss , possible poor contact etc. It's only if you have buried cables that you can't change, that you should try to piggy back signals.
So the minimum you will need is:
One pair of Shotgun cable from the Mini-Dish.
But you don't get DAVE on FreeSat, so you need the Freeview co-ax cable from the rooftop aerial.
For the lounge TV position, where your Hi-Fi or Home Theatre sound is set up, it's a good idea to have the outdoor FM/DAB aerial feed. Since this is usually mounted next to the TV aerial, you might as well bring both in using a shotgun cable.
Sharing one Digibox is a pipe dream, the most you can do is share it with the Master bedroom, with independent feeds for the kids. So you need one co-ax cable for the RF2 output to the second location. Personally, I would get a long HDMI cable, and run it to the second location. You can get a HDMI splitter, powered by the HDMI cable, so no need for a power supply.
Shotgun for Minidish
Shotgun for TV and FM
Co-ax for RF2
HDMI
Need to get a thicker conduit.
If you are chasing the channel through plaster to replace the old co-ax, I would bury a conduit that is at least that wide.0 -
HDMI splitters powered by the HDMI cable are definitely not recommended. The HDMI minimum spec does not allow for sufficient power for these devices and although they may work with games consoles etc they are the source of numerous problems in other setups particularly with Sky HD boxes. The HDMI.org who set the spec for HDMI refuse point blank to provide approval for any such devices. So if using an HDMI splitter/extender make sure it is one that has an independent power supply.0
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I have a two way HDMI splitter that came with a power supply.
It goes from a Sky+HD using a 1 metre HDMI 1.3 cable, and splits into a 1.8 metre to local TV and a 5 metre to the master bedroom above. So far so good without the power supply. I expect it can get into trouble if I try to run Full HD from a BluRay player, but at 1080i it's fine. If it does, I'll just plug the power supply in.0
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