turning lounger/diner into dining room and bedroom

drummer_666

I am looking to buy a 3 bed house, or a 2 bed with 2 reception rooms as I need to rent out 2 rooms.

I've found a nice house but the 2 reception rooms have been knocked through into one. So I'd need to put the wall back up and a door too.

The lounge area is 10'10 x 11'6.
The dining area is 9'10" X 13'9"

If I put in a stud wall do you think this would be sufficient?

Do you have any idea of the cost?

It is Birmingham. Not sure whether dry lined or skimmed is best and what's cheaper. It needs to look smooth on both sides.

Also do you think doing this would ruin the laminate flooring running across the open plan lounge/diner, if I took the wall out again in a couple of years?

Thank you in advance

richardw

drummer_666 wrote: »

I need to rent out 2 rooms.

Is it worth the extra kerfuffle with the extra tax you might have to pay? and the house in multiple occupation legislation that you might have to comply with?

Might be easiest to go with a smaller 2 bed and have one lodger.

drummer_666

richardw wrote: »

Is it worth the extra kerfuffle with the extra tax you might have to pay? and the house in multiple occupation legislation that you might have to comply with?

Might be easiest to go with a smaller 2 bed and have one lodger.

Financially i am MUCH MUCH better off renting out 2 rooms. By nearly £250 a month, after tax. So I'm trying to get costings for putting the wall back in to see if this is a cost effective option as buying one with 2 reception rooms.

I think my dad would be able to put up the stud wall ok, but don't know how much materials would be, or how much plastering by a professional

Also 2 bed houses are virtually the same price as 3 bed houses around here. But having a bigger double bedroom downstairs would bring in far more money than a single bedroom upstairs.

Also, you can have 2 lodgers on the rent a room scheme.

27col

You don't actually need to plaster it. If it is dry lined using taper edged board you just tape the joints and fill the joints flush. As seen in several American TV shows. I did it in my garage conversion and it is simple enough to do. Especially if it is likely that you might want to remove it later on.

richardw

A stud wall may need sound insulation quilt to achieve a certain level of sound insulation, but this may not good enough as a block wall for potential lodgers.

drummer_666

richardw wrote: »

A stud wall may need sound insulation quilt to achieve a certain level of sound insulation, but this may not good enough as a block wall for potential lodgers.

lol what did u thank me for in the other post?

well 2 of the walls in my bedroom in the house i'm renting now are stud walls and it's ok, even tho my housemate watches tv and plays computer games in his bedroom that's by mine

what can you use as a cheap way of adding a bit of sound insulation? i'm sure i've read somewhere that you can use unofficial stuff that's cheaper

27col - I read somewhere that you should skim it coz otherwise it looks real crap and it's not good for painting etc? don't know how true that is. do you know of any pics online showing the difference between dry lined and skimmed walls?

keyfob

Stud wall is fine with 100x50 timber studs at 600 centers with 100mm Rockwool Flexi between the studs. 15 mm hd plaster board both sides with taped joints and painted finish.

This can be fixed on top of the floor, however it will leave some marks where it's been fixed which could be made good should it be removed.

Total cost about £1000.

drummer_666

keyfob wrote: »

Stud wall is fine with 100x50 timber studs at 600 centers with 100mm Rockwool Flexi between the studs. 15 mm hd plaster board both sides with taped joints and painted finish.

This can be fixed on top of the floor, however it will leave some marks where it's been fixed which could be made good should it be removed.

Total cost about £1000.

out of interest how did you calculate the £1k?

I had a look at the wickes guide and got a rough estimate of £300-400 for materials

am I way out or are you pricing up more expensive items or including labour? hmmmmmm

Casati

I don't know that you could get away with skipping the sound insulation on the ground floor..I only say that having lived in an HMO with a front door constantly slamming just near the foot end of the bed and people clattering about washing the dishes at midnight about half a metre from the pillow end. (No, not in the same room, but might as well have been!) I lasted about two months ....

keyfob

>>out of interest how did you calculate the £1k?

I had a look at the wickes guide and got a rough estimate of £300-400 for materials

am I way out or are you pricing up more expensive items or including labour? hmmmmmm<<

Yes labour and possible plumbing/electrical works. A radiator for instance.

The price could be brought down quite a lot, as you point out, without these.

drummer_666

keyfob wrote: »

Yes labour and possible plumbing/electrical works. A radiator for instance.

The price could be brought down quite a lot, as you point out, without these.

that's cool. I wouldn't need a radiator adding and don't think electrics either

It's worth taking a look at the house now, thanks guys!