Garage conversion help ...

will-he-payitoff

Ive seen this done by replacing up and over door with a upvc door, window and infill panel below window. Then the other walls will just need plasterboarding and skimming.

bobthedambuilder

will-he-payitoff wrote: »

Ive seen this done by replacing up and over door with a upvc door, window and infill panel below window. Then the other walls will just need plasterboarding and skimming.

More often than not, the garage floor will be at a different level to the floor in the rest of the house, and may not have a damp proof membrane (it's connected to the outside). You may have to build up the floor and incorporate some sort of damp-proofing (and ideally some insulation as well).

cyclonebri1

bobthedambuilder wrote: »

More often than not, the garage floor will be at a different level to the floor in the rest of the house, and may not have a damp proof membrane (it's connected to the outside). You may have to build up the floor and incorporate some sort of damp-proofing (and ideally some insulation as well).

As in post #11, ;)

27col

aboxa wrote: »

Wow that looks pretty impressive...and you did it all on a budget!! About the wall frame im thinking i may not be able to get away with doing that as there is a room on top of the garage if that makes sense...

I don't think that the fact that there is a room above will make the slightest difference to the wall.
There will already be a lintel above the garage door taking the weight of the upper floor.
The Inspector was concerned about the likelihood of frost heave when he specified the depth of the foundation for the wall under the window. I couldn't actually tell him that I thought he was being ridiculous so I took the frame and tile hanging route.
In any event I could not have matched the bricks as the manufacturer had gone out of production. I'm glad that I did what I did. It was much less work and much less cost.

sunshinetours

If you cannot get bricks matched, you can have bricks tinted which give a good finish. Ours was done 5/6 years ago and brink tint still pretty much indistinguishable from originals. Looks much less like an obvious conversion which UPVC or tiled front wall always will IMO

Do get building control sign off though especially if you have to sell house in future. We bought a house previously that was "updated" by a keen DIYer and it was pretty horrendous in places when we updated work ourselves

cyclonebri1

Brick tinting is not stable, it may look fine today but tomorrow or 5 years hence it will have faded/changed. But good for selling a house, ;)

sunshinetours

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Brick tinting is not stable, it may look fine today but tomorrow or 5 years hence it will have faded/changed. But good for selling a house, ;)

Did you read my post? Ours was done 6 years ago and looks fine. Either way it looks a lot better than tile or UPVC in-fills

cyclonebri1

sunshinetours wrote: »

Did you read my post? Ours was done 6 years ago and looks fine. Either way it looks a lot better than tile or UPVC in-fills

Did you read mine, brick tinting is not stable, may be today but it does not match the aging characteristics of natural brick.


Yes it might "look" fine but is it?, will it be in the future??, truth is it is a chemical intervention that may go either way, you have placed your bet, good luck,

sunshinetours

Ok so 5 years was a red herring - thanks for clarifying

Mine however does have full building regs cert which I am sure you would agree is more important

cyclonebri1

I really do hope it stays that way, , it's just that I do have an ex workmate that had an extension done that was tinted as even though the correct bricks were still available, was a poor match. The clay base will vary over time I supose.

I don't know the ins and outs or even if it was certified but I do know he wished he hadn't had it done as what was a darker tint to dull much lighter bricks, was fine for a few years, eventually darkened even further. ;)