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Dot and Dab VS render
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Dont think it would react with lime never had any problems,clean wall of dust using a stiff brush then a soft brush rub hands over wall if dust comes of on your hands then it would pay to pva walls
(follow instructions on tub)use a large brush 6" slap it on leave to dry couple of hours,do not over mix dry wall adhesive,to much air in the mix and it will go hard in minutes,think gyproc have a guide on website on how to,follow it to the letter not to hard to do if you now how to.Had a dryliner on site the other day in a room 21ftx24ft, got their at 7am boarded ceiling dot and dabbed all walls left at 3.30pm,might take you a bit longer LOL.0 -
i have seen the thermaline range , do you think there is much difference between the basic and thermaline plus board. apart from the price that is:Dyou go in the cage ! cage goes in the water ! sharks in the water ! our shark :eek:0
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30mm thermaline basic will give you a u value 0.91
27mm thermaline plus will give you a u value 0.85
40mm thermaline basic will give you a u value 0.75
40mm thermaline plus will give you a u value 0.64
asumming your wall is solid brick 215mm thick.
lower the u value the less heat you lose
without any insulation the u value is 2.15
for current building regs the u value is 0.35
hence why old houses cost so much to heat
We dont build houses like we use to!!! good job really!!0 -
In a similar situation we used 27 mm thermaline plus, but we battoned out the walls instead of dot and dab. This was mainly because the walls were pretty uneven but also because we did it ourselves and I wasn't confident dot and dabbing. Got a plasterer to give it a skim and its been great. The insulation makes an enourmous difference, and you don't notice the 27mm (plus 1 inch battons in our case) reduction in size.
FWIW I suspect viao is technically correct about building regs (although I think it is only 25% you need to alter before they come into effect), but personally I wouldn't lose any sleep over it... It's meaningless beurocracy.0 -
bobthedambuilder wrote: »If you can afford to lose a couple of inches off the room sizes, what about insulation board, then batten and plasterboard with skim. (Plumb and straighten the walls by packing out the battens). That way you'll be improving the house efficiency at the same time. I did this on a conversion 5 years ago and it made a huge difference.
best way imo - nice and toasty0
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