Dot and Dab VS render

alanco15

Hi all, i have just discovered that my walls in my old victorian house which we just bought are pretty much all blown so am in the process of taking all the old render off, ( were not living there yet by the way )

But what is best , re render or dot and dab , i guess dot and dab would be quiker and cheaper , but not sure . is one more energy effecient than the other. any advice please would be gratefully received. thanks

DVardysShadow

Dot and dab tends to be done on modern blockwork which is usually fairly accurate. Victorian brickwork can be very rough and uneven and for this reason, I would prefer undercoat plaster as a substrate followed by the usual skim. But I would listen to a plasterer I trusted.

bobthedambuilder

If you can afford to lose a couple of inches off the room sizes, what about insulation board, then batten and plasterboard with skim. (Plumb and straighten the walls by packing out the battens). That way you'll be improving the house efficiency at the same time. I did this on a conversion 5 years ago and it made a huge difference.

vaio

If you've taken all the old plaster off then I think that strictly speaking it comes under building regs and you'll need to bring the insulation on outside walls up to scratch. This involves foam backed plasterboard, about 75mm thick which can either be D&D or screwed to the old wall.

Sounds like a pain but the saving you'll get in heating bills makes it worthwhile

Kiran

If you're worried about the wall being out of plumb then gypliner can help you out there. It will however take about 40mm off each wall that you line. It has an advantage that you can insulate as stated above. http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gypframe_metal_products/gypframe_channels/gyplyner_and_components.aspx

Radsteral

If the house is cold the insulation board is the way to go. Consider the space and the trouble when installing radiators,window covers etc . You have to think in advance to make extra noggings for these otherwise it wil be hard to fix them
If the house is warm ,there is no better than sand and cement Dot and dab mainly speedy and used by main builder to cut expenses,,less skilled labour in the first place
You will need a plasterer for sand an
D cement though...dot and dab you can probably do yourself if you see couple of videos on utube

DVardysShadow

vaio wrote: »

If you've taken all the old plaster off then I think that strictly speaking it comes under building regs and you'll need to bring the insulation on outside walls up to scratch. This involves foam backed plasterboard, about 75mm thick which can either be D&D or screwed to the old wall.

Sounds like a pain but the saving you'll get in heating bills makes it worthwhile

Coming soon to a crazy bureaucracy near you :- planning permission for wallpaper, in case the pattern is too loud.

vaio

yep, but I don't think decorations come under building regs (yet)

Don't forget though that the need to upgrade insulation only kicks in if you remove more than 50% of the thermal layer in question so as long as you remove & replace less than half the plaster on a wall you can stick with the nice Victorian insulation levels and use sand & cement on a solid wall.

Don't know if there is any time limit element in the building regs to stop you removing and replacing half the plaster now and the other half tomorrow or next week.

alanco15

Hi , thanks for all your replies . i have removed all of the render+plaster , so iguess will come under regs. But a bit worried about losing 75mm if using insulated plaster board.
I am seriously considering using this method (quicker/cheaper-cleaner) etc.
Do you think it would pay to dot and dab and then screw aswell just to be sure..Is there any chance the lime mortor in the brick work will react with the dot and dab adhesive and make it come loose ????

what size insulated board do you think i might get away with and styill give some improvement in insulation.

Thanks all.

jkpd

27 Gyproc Thermaline plasterboard dot & dab,plaster finish, avoid tapeing and filling joints,not a diy job to fill joints,most dryliners cant do a perfect job,would cost £175ish to plaster one room plasterboard will be £25ish per sheet 1200x2400,look on gproc site for more info.

alanco15

Thanks, i will look into the gyprock, any idea if the dabs would react with the lime mortar.