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Floor tile adhesive

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Planning on tiling my kitchen diner just now, its a timber T&G floor overboarded with ply.
Tiles I'll probably using will be : http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod1070/section1365/Rustic-Slate-Black-Floor-Tiles.html

Adhesives I've been looking at but cant decide on are...
BAL RAPIDSET FLEXIBLE (£40 for 20kg)
TOPPFIX SUPERFLEX 2 PART FLEXIBLE (£41) (used this before and it was good)
DUNLOP SET FAST PLUS (£20 for 20kg) (inexpensive?)

Has anyone got any pointers on which would be best thanks?

cheers
«1

Comments

  • tpt
    tpt Posts: 312 Forumite
    What thickness ply has it been overboarded with. Usual practice would be to use at least 15mm WBP ply, screwed at least every 200mm in a grid pattern.

    you need to be honest with yourself about the bounce that is left in the floor as although the adhesive is flexible the tiles never are!

    Anyway, onto adhesive...

    Bal is great stuff, as is granfix. personally i'd stay away from most others especially the diy shed stuff. Any s1 adhesive will be fine if the bounce on the floor is minimal - the bal product you have mentioned or granfix rapidset 1 part flexible would be my selection.

    Topps are very expensive on adhesive - the bal should be costing you less than 30 quid a bag, ring your local tile shops (not sure where you are located or how much you need so unsure if i can help directly)

    Those tiles will need sealing BTW.
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Also Mapei Keraflex or Ardex X7R as alternatives.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • ormus
    ormus Posts: 42,714 Forumite
    i use bal or unibond flexible adhesive.
    Get some gorm.
  • partan
    partan Posts: 152 Forumite
    thanks for that! the floor didnt have much movement it it originally, its 22mm t&g on top of 2by2's which are sat on the old concrete floor. We overboarded with 12mm ply after fastening any planks which moved/squeaked. The ply is screwed every 150mm.
    On the BAL website it says to lay a bed 2-6mm thick, i'm assuming i'd be best keep to the 6mm to help absorb any small flex left in the timber?
    I'll heading in to the big smoke tomorrow (inverness), so I'll try to track down a supplier there.
    thanks for all your help!
  • MX5huggy
    MX5huggy Posts: 7,163 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Shame not to just rip the floor out and screed it.....
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    partan wrote: »
    We overboarded with 12mm ply after fastening any planks which moved/squeaked.
    12mm is a tad thin 15mm is really the minimum or rip the planks out and use 25mm WPB direct onto joists.
    The ply is screwed every 150mm.
    Into joists I presume.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • partan
    partan Posts: 152 Forumite
    MX5huggy wrote: »
    Shame not to just rip the floor out and screed it.....

    hindsight is great! I've learnt a lot having this work done to the house. Where I'm tiling is an extension which has been further extended, and we have just extended up the way from it. If we hadn't already installed the new kitchen in it months ago, i probably would be pulling the timber up.
  • partan
    partan Posts: 152 Forumite
    keystone wrote: »
    12mm is a tad thin 15mm is really the minimum or rip the planks out and use 25mm WPB direct onto joists.

    Into joists I presume.

    Cheers

    into the joists where possible, and into the planks in between
  • Personally I'd use Kerflex or Keraflex Maxi, certainly cheaper (lilley tile and stone if you need a quanity).
  • andyhop
    andyhop Posts: 1,996 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    This is a floating floor, No adhesive will be guaranteed, All will fail eventually
    Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure
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