Does underfloor heating need "bleeding"?

We have "wet" underfloor heating in our kitchen/utility which in the main is absolutely fab.

However, I've become convinced that on one side of the kitchen the floor has gone cold - about a foot or so in width along one side. Now, I'm not 100% positive but when I stand at my cooker it's noticeable and I'm fairly sure it wasn't like that before.

The room is still getting up to temp fine so it's not causing any real problems, it's just a naggy thing.

Any clues on what could be causing that? Do these systems need bleeding like radiators?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Regards

R

Comments

  • brig001
    brig001 Posts: 396 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    They shouldn't need bleeding. We haven't bled ours and it has been down 3 years.
    In ours, the pipework rises from the floor to the circulating pump and control valves, so the pipework in the floor is the lowest bit. I suppose if the pipework in the floor was the highest bit (pump and valves in the cellar?), then you could get air trapped that way.

    HTH,
    Brian.
  • StuHolmes
    StuHolmes Posts: 142 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Our wet underfloor heating has a cold border in front of the units and cooker. This was by design, so that we would not be heating the units and their contents.
  • nicka99
    nicka99 Posts: 153 Forumite
    edited 11 January 2012 at 11:21AM
    ours is colder nearest outside walls and doors - I suppose because, despite being an insulated new build extension, these are the areas where the heat is most likely to leak out from. and as per above, I dont think it needs bleeding as is most likely to be lower than other parts of the heating system. it could be blocked I suppose but since there are not normally any joints or kinks in the pipes and they are a reasoble bore size I cant really see how that could happen as would have to be a pretty large obstruction
  • Over time, air can build up in the water, and also, like a radiator system, the inhibitor needs replacing. It's likely that your floor will return to temperature in the colder spots, given a flush and refill, and bleed of the circuits.

    Give Robbens Systems a ring. Their technical support is excellent, and they will give you a quick answer.
  • You could not get a bit only airlocked. As the heating element is one long coil in a room if it was locked the whole darn area would stop working, not just a specific section.
    You scullion! You rampallian! You fustilarian! I’ll tickle your catastrophe (Henry IV part 2)
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