soffits and facsias.

stevefoggy

House is a 1994 build with wooden barge boards. Want to get these replaced with upvc fascias.

How much would this cost to get done?


HOuse is a 4 bedroom, and there is probably about 35metres of barge board to cover

Some people have mentioned just covering existing wood is this a bad idea or is this ok.

Would you use existing gutters and downpipes and how much do these cost to refresh with new ones?

Catslovelycats

I'm in a 3 bed detached house and it cost 1700 to have new soffits and faschias this summer.
Not sure how much this helps. I've no idea about how much of anything was used.
I had new pipes and guttering included.

Tucker

Avoid larger double glazing firms as they are often double the price it should cost.

I used a local tradesman who been s/e for 20+ years and paid £1200 for a semi and a detached garage, removing all the old wood and replacing it all with upvc.

Personally, I would always go for removal of all wood rather than coverboarding over the wood, as the wood behind can still deteriorate.

If you remove the lot, you know it's a job for life.

27col

I clad mine not long after I built the house in 1977. Well before they were showing any signs of rot. Apparently no trouble indicated as yet. If there had been rot apparent when I did the cladding I would have removed the wood first.

capeverde

what the eye doesn't see eh!! What people fail to realise is that with fascias and bargeboards the rot tends to work from the inside out. On gables it usually permeates on the verge pointing and runs down to what is called the 'box end', this is why you would usually expect this to be the first sign of rot. On the fascias, it usually happens when the under tile felt has decayed and fallen back inside. Any water the finds its way under the tiles, either from cracks, high winds, ridge tiles, chimneys etc will then fall inside. By covering your existing timber, not only are you trapping water inside, you are also causing sweating and condensation between the two materials. Your problems arent actually the fascias and soffits though, it is the rafters that these are there to protect. On end rafters Ive seen these rotted up over 2 metres from the bottom and once wet, or worse dry rot has set in its a costly affair. Always replace fascias and soffits. I would recommend a solid soffit board with a minimum 18mm fascia with over fascia ventilator built into an EPS (eaves protection system) which is a rigid pvc doing the same job as the felt. I would always replace the guttering as once seals are broken its difficult to get them right. For a good job expect to pay around £80 per linear metre. Oh we also used to put 4x2 joist blocks on the existing rafters which enabled us to cut off any rot and to achieve an exact straight line. (builders dont tend to cut rafters exactly straight and its offensive to the eye to see a wavy fascia board) On gables we also recommended a dry verge system, we used to use Klober. expect to pay extra for this but it takes away the need for pointing.

UncleZen

I had all the facias done in a mahogany coloured plastic in 2008, its more expensive than white. Done by a local tradesman who replaced any rotten wood and wood stained the existing wood before covering in plastic. The gable ends were structural so could not be removed easily (may answer your question about complete replacement of all wood). It cost about £2400 not sure how many feet of facia there was (no soffit) but we have 3 gable ends.

capeverde

Bargeboards on gable ends arent structural. You have a gable ladder under the bargeboard and we often use to replace the outside of this as well, ie the whole rafter. Sure it causes more work as you have to replace the undercloaking and rebed the tiles if you arent using a dry verge, but it is a job worth doing. As I said in my previous post, its pointless worrying about the outside of a timber fascia because the rot works from the inside out.

tony6403

capeverde wrote: »

what the eye doesn't see eh!! What people fail to realise is that with fascias and bargeboards the rot tends to work from the inside out. On gables it usually permeates on the verge pointing and runs down to what is called the 'box end', this is why you would usually expect this to be the first sign of rot. On the fascias, it usually happens when the under tile felt has decayed and fallen back inside. Any water the finds its way under the tiles, either from cracks, high winds, ridge tiles, chimneys etc will then fall inside. By covering your existing timber, not only are you trapping water inside, you are also causing sweating and condensation between the two materials. Your problems arent actually the fascias and soffits though, it is the rafters that these are there to protect. On end rafters Ive seen these rotted up over 2 metres from the bottom and once wet, or worse dry rot has set in its a costly affair. Always replace fascias and soffits. I would recommend a solid soffit board with a minimum 18mm fascia with over fascia ventilator built into an EPS (eaves protection system) which is a rigid pvc doing the same job as the felt. I would always replace the guttering as once seals are broken its difficult to get them right. For a good job expect to pay around £80 per linear metre. Oh we also used to put 4x2 joist blocks on the existing rafters which enabled us to cut off any rot and to achieve an exact straight line. (builders dont tend to cut rafters exactly straight and its offensive to the eye to see a wavy fascia board) On gables we also recommended a dry verge system, we used to use Klober. expect to pay extra for this but it takes away the need for pointing.

Agree with most of this.
Had a quote for painting my soffits and eaves and decided that I may as well replace with plastic . When the timber boards - which looked ok externally - were removed I was glad that I had made this decision . Wet rot in a number of out of sight places.

Johnhowell

We had our bungalow done ~ approx. £50/linear metre - includes for removal of old stuff, new facia, soffit (broad smooth - not Ship-lapped), guttering (black half round) and down pipes. Done by a local installer that actually provided the service to the double glazing firms we invited in to quote - they just added £1000 on top of his price!

If you are around the Essex area I would definitely recommend him.

Cheers, John

UncleZen

capeverde wrote: »

Bargeboards on gable ends arent structural.

Im afraid they are on my property.
Dont make a quote like that without the facts or inspecting the property in question.

tradesman82

Im afraid capeverde is correct, it really doesn't matter what property there on, its lazy tradesmen who do this and i can certify as a registered installer with 15 years experience that i have never seen a house that had exceptions and anything that hangs from your roof is certainly attached rather than structural. trust me....this guy knows what hes talking about and has just been taken out of context... if there were more fitters like him id feel threatened!!