What material to use?

Johnhowell

Dear all, any advice greatly appreciated for the following issue.

Rain water is coming under the door to our garage. The door is setback by about 12inches from the front edge of the concrete floor slab - driveway is gravel.

A wooden batten has been placed just behind the door, with sealant underneath, yet water still gets in.

It would appear that the concrete floor slopes towards the door, so I am considering forming a wedge from the wooden batten (~0.5 inch high) towards the front (~10inches) for the full width of the door.

What material should be used - some sort of fine resin cement?
Or, more extreme, scabble the concrete to reverse the slope?

Many thanks,
John

SailorSam

When i had rainwater sitting outside the back door i got big masonry drill, about an inch if you get it and then drill a series of holes right through the concrete,
Or dig away the concrete down to the hardcore and get a grill like this to put on top .
PavingExpert - AJ McCormack and Son - Drainage for Pavements

Johnhowell

SailorSam wrote: »

When i had rainwater sitting outside the back door i got big masonry drill, about an inch if you get it and then drill a series of holes right through the concrete,
Or dig away the concrete down to the hardcore and get a grill like this to put on top .
PavingExpert - AJ McCormack and Son - Drainage for Pavements

Thanks Sam.
Sadly the floor slab has a thickened edge (1m deep) - bl**dy Building Control :-)

Cheers, John

ormus

http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/Channel-Drainage/Aco-HexDrain-Plastic-Channel-%26-Grating.htm

try something like this.

Johnhowell

ormus wrote: »

http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/Channel-Drainage/Aco-HexDrain-Plastic-Channel-%26-Grating.htm

try something like this.

Thanks Ormus.

The rain water is not coming from the driveway, as it is gravel, so a threshold grating will not help. The double width garage door faces the prevailing weather and the rain caught by the door pools on the concrete just in front of the door and somehow gets past the wooden batten and sealant.
I was hoping for some sort of fine cement/resin material could be used to form a wedge that would force the rain water away from the door towards the gravel rather than pooling.

As previously mentioned - it could be that the concrete be scabbled to form the slope away from the door.

Cheers,
John

tony6403

Wouldn't the wedge idea cause an obstruction for your door? If not you could consider products such as Ardex exterior resurfacing compound. It would remain to be seen how long this would last.
Another possibility would be to cut several shallow channels with an angle grinder but these would need unblocking from time to time and wouldn't look very good.

Hintza

This might not work at all but what about a cable cover (you know the type to stop you tripping ove loose cables) they have a slight arch and if it works you could try and stick it down.



You could cut a line in the concrete an pop some form of long "T" shaped wood/plastic etc (ie similar to the stuff used to join wooden floors)

bobthedambuilder

I would suggest a combination of what you've said in your original post. Scabble the concrete surface to form a fall away from the timber at the door, finishing the scabbled surface with a high strength mortar or resin cement skim. That way, you will end up with the surface at the door no higher than it was before. Go for a skim product that is designed for thin layers, and make sure you follow any bonding instructions to the letter.

If the door swings up and over, how about a sealing strip fixed to the bottom of the door to stop driving rain?

Johnhowell

Thank you all for your replies and suggestions.

I forgot to mention that the door is an electric sectional up-and-over door which has a rubber tubular skirt. The timber batten fitted (actually a skirting board profile laid on its back) has been placed so that the skirt rests just infront and partially over the chamfered face of the timber. However, the rain water ponds against the skirt at two low points and somehow migrates through to the garage interior. The garage door installer was asked to adjust the STOP position - but due to the level door against a non-level concrete - no more adjustment was available :-(

As suggested, a combination of the above would appear to be the way to go.

Cheers,
John