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Boiler / Water / heating advice needed
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by the photos i would say its a s plan ( two times two port divertor valves )
one for radiators one for the cylinder coil
with a sealed system boiler ( not a combi ! )
a d.i.y. job
OR SOMEONE POSING AS A PLUMBER/HEATING ENGINEER
a bit like some of the people on this forum
:xmassign:0 -
michael_nod wrote: »sorry who`s karl ?
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
michael_nod wrote: »by the photos i would say its a s plan ( two times two port divertor valves )
one for radiators one for the cylinder coila d.i.y. jobOR SOMEONE POSING AS A PLUMBER/HEATING ENGINEER
a bit like some of the people on this forum:xmassign:
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
Michael - I've not bothered acknowledging your posts until now as they are not only unhelpful, but make no sense to a lay person which I have clearly stated I am. Additionally, you appear keen to distract from the obvious help that people like Canucklehead, Myser and Keystone as well as others are obviously trying to give people like me.
Canucklehead, Myser, Keystone, et all... - I REALLY am grateful of you spending the time trying to help me get to grips with what I have here
OK - So since our conversations last night I've read the instruction manuals and I have now programmed the times for the heating.
Re the Cert of Compliance - checked the paperwork and the boiler was installed in 2009 but there is no Cert of Compliance in any of my paperwork, but there is a one page gas safety inspection report dated 24/10/11. Do I need to get onto the solicitor about this?
I've changed the cylinder stat to 60 as advised, but I'm still a little confused re the water situation though (sorry, but I'm just not getting it!). As the waters not mains fed does it mean that if we use all the water in the tank we will need to wait for it to reheat fully before we get hot water again? If so how long does that take roughly? Also if that is the case do I need to keep the water on constant or do I timer that as well so it just is on when we're in the house?
Re the TRV - On my first jobs to do in the new year is get a heating man out to add TRVs to the rads that don't have them and take the TRV off the rad nearest the therm and whilst he's at it he can replace the therm and have a good look around to see if we can be mains fed!You laugh because I'm different - I laugh because you're all the same0 -
The amount of time the water remains hot in the cylinder is dependent on the insulation (jacket) around the cylinder. Those cylinders can hold hot water for a good few hours if the insulation jacket is good and kept tightly closed.
You need to determine the program times for hot water and central heating depending on your family's requirements.
I'm surprised your cylinder wasn't changed at the same time as the rest of the system upgrade to a more modern hot water storage such as a Mega Flo?
Anyhow, if all the hot water in the tank is used up and say you wanted to do some washing up, you could use the immersion heater (assuming you have one installed). Immersion heaters are useful where you need to heat the water in the tank rapidly or handy if the boiler stops working!If my post hasn't helped you, then don't click the 'Thanks' button!0 -
Hi.
You have stored hot water in an open vented cylinder.
The times set in the programmer will allow the boiler to heat the hot water cylinder to the temp set on the cyl stat.
As you use hot water the cylinder gets cooler and unless the programmer is on it will eventually run cold.
If you have a cold cylinder it might take 40 mins to heat to 60 degrees, it depends on the age and condition of the internal coil as to how long the heat transfer takes.
You can only experiment to see how it suits you.
As you have a pump for shower/s I would think you will need the programmer on quite a long time to keep you in hot water, as the pump will deplete the cylinder quite quickly.
It looks like the previous owner got a Gas Safety report to take the place of a certificate of compliance. It is not the same thing .
The idea of the certificate is to demonstrate that the work was done by a qualified installer to the standards required by building and gas regs.
It is unlikely you will prove anything at this late stage as to who did the installation and if they were legit or not. All you can do is to get a registered installer to check all the items in the commissioning section of the boiler manual.
GSR
PS What was the cylinder stat set to before you altered it?Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)0 -
Canucklehead wrote: »Hi.
PS What was the cylinder stat set to before you altered it?
Um I think it was about the 65 markYou laugh because I'm different - I laugh because you're all the same0 -
Hi.
I would suspect the stat was set high to make up for the quantity of hot water. I think the cylinder is undersize for the shower/s it has to supply by pump.
Pumps don't like water at too high a temp, it hastens wear .
Installation manuals usually don't recommend over 60 degrees
Bit of a catch 22.
GSR.Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)0 -
Thanks all
Well looks like I'm stuck with it for now and I'll see what the man says in the new year when I get him out. Last question is it worth me trying to find out about who installed it? And if I do what difference will it make?
You laugh because I'm different - I laugh because you're all the same0
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