Boiler / Water / heating advice needed

Canucklehead

Hi.

Order up a copy of your boiler's installation manual .

The LP722 is easy to program .

Do you have a photo of the cylinder connections as I can't see how you get hot water from the boiler. Not sure if the boiler has an internal divertor.

A photo of the pipes coming from the boiler would help.

Does the c/h work? Does the room stat turn it on/off?

In general it's a poorly done installation. It would benefit from a new and probably bigger cylinder, as you are pumping more than one shower.
The pipework and tank arrangement in the loft speak for themselves.

You would have a large house seeing as you have a 30kw boiler?

GSR

Myser

I've seen those Drayton thermostats last for years. You may want to upgrade it to something a bit more modern though since the other controls have been updated!

I wasn't aware that the Drayton programmer is not very good - I know British Gas rebadge them and use the same.

tinkerbelluk

Thanks Canucklehead for your help so far I really appreciate it

OK - I've downloaded the manuals and I'm off to have a read

Do you have a photo of the cylinder connections as I can't see how you get hot water from the boiler. Not sure if the boiler has an internal divertor.

OK - This is from the top of the airing cupboard down on the left:









And then on the right:



A photo of the pipes coming from the boiler would help.




Does the c/h work? Does the room stat turn it on/off?

C/H does work but it seems to get boiling hot really quickly then when we turn the therm down it does go off. Some of the rads have TRVs on and they are set betweekn 2 and 3. The rads without trvs on are set at just above the min level but they are still roasting hot.

In general it's a poorly done installation. It would benefit from a new and probably bigger cylinder, as you are pumping more than one shower.

OK - Is this an urgent job do you think and do you have any ideas on costs?


The pipework and tank arrangement in the loft speak for themselves.

Yeap - I guessed it was all over the place! Can I be a bit ditsy and ask what the water tanks are? Are they feeding the whole system then? If so should they have covers?

You would have a large house seeing as you have a 30kw boiler?

Umm, not especially large - 4 bed detached. Why is the boiler to large or again am I just being ditsy?


Re the thermo - Ironically, I've just found this under the lagging of the cylinder!!!



Another silly question, why do we have the tanks in the loft and in the airing cupboard and why isn't it just mains fed?

Myser

Re the thermo - Ironically, I've just found this under the lagging of the cylinder!!!

Hmm...me thinks someone has forgotten to fit that!

You could fit it yourself if you know a bit about electrics/DIY. The only thing is that it is a different shape to the exisiting one so the old paint may show.

You have what is known as a vented sytem system with a feeder tank in the loft. Many modern installations have an un-vented system with no feeder tank in the loft for the central heating.

If the water pressure in your area is sufficient, you can do away with a cold water tank too and have a direct mains water fed system.

Canucklehead

Hi.

I wonder if the installer bought a controls pack and just dumped the room stat out of the way under the cyl jacket.

You should have a cylinder stat strapped to the cylinder,about 14" from the bottom, and connected electrically to one of the valves under the red gate valve handle.

The room stat is connected, electrically, to the other valve.


When you turn the room stat down then up the little black lever at the top will/should move, motor open spring return.

The same for the hot water stat.Turn stat 'till it 'clicks', turn back ,'click'.

Set the cyl stat to 60 degrees.

You should have a cylinder of hot water at that temp as long as the programmer is on.(at the moment it's on 24/7 )

Vent to hot water cylinder should be 22mm not 15 like yours.

The more you look the more problems appear.

I wonder if this is a DIY job hence no information left for you, oversize boiler....

Did you get a Cert of Compliance from local authority? Solicitor would have requested it. It's in the paperwork you should have copies.

GSR

tinkerbelluk

Both thanks for all of your help so far - ill dig out the paperwork tomorrow and check and report back I'll also have a look at what you've said re the cylinder.

I'm terms of a DIY job I'm beginning to think so as the previous owner was an electrician and we seem to have switches and sockets everywhere that don't seem to do much! Also some rads have been replaced some haven't and the more I've read this evening I'm not sure if it's been set up correctly as the therm is in the hall and the rad near it has a trv and I understand from what I've read this is the rad that shouldn't have one on!

tinkerbelluk

Omg just a thought where before we were mains fed and the water heated as we needed it, where you've said about the water being on 24/7 will it be costing me a fortune keeping it on???

Myser

therm is in the hall and the rad near it has a trv and I understand from what I've read this is the rad that shouldn't have one on!

You are quite right. The rad. nearest the thermostat should not have a TRV.

Why you ask? When you set a temperature on your main thermostat dial on the wall, the radiator closest begins to heat up and then shuts off when the TRV reaches the cut off temperature. This makes the area around the radiator begin to cool down and the thermostat on the wall continues to request heat i.e. the boiler remains on. Even though the rest of the house has reached the correct temperature.

Canucklehead

tinkerbelluk wrote: »

Omg just a thought where before we were mains fed and the water heated as we needed it, where you've said about the water being on 24/7 will it be costing me a fortune keeping it on???

Cylinder stat will shut down the boiler/system once it gets to it's set temp, ideally 60 degrees. Once you get to grips with the programmer and how to time it you can alter it to suit your needs.

I get the impression you are not getting enough hot water?

I would recommend you find a Gas Safe installer to check the system .

GSR.

macman

michael_nod wrote: »

they have a cylinder and a tank in the loft
with other conections/valves

stored hot water and radiators pumped via the tank/pump

with mains
hot water heat exchangers

on a s plan/super s plan is my geuss ?


ps who is karl[/QUOTE]

Presumably he is your twin brother, who recently sold you his PC with the keyboard with the broken shift key?