Spreading the heat

mazzersdad

Just had a Parkray 9 installed. All properly done with the neccessary certificates, and very happy with it.

Our lounge is 27' x 17' and it is warming that nicely, the heat goes out of the door into the hall and warms that so that the central heating isn't coming on. No complaints there then!

The stove is set back into the original fireplace which was all opened up and the rear wall is the hall wall, if you see what I mean.

Would it be possible, or acceptable, to drill through the rear wall into the hallway and use the circulating heat to go out into the hallway as well, the holes being covered by vents when not in use. It might filter the heat upstairs off the hallway as well.

By the way the Parkray has a water heater built into it. We filled this with sharp sand and this also reflects the heat back. We were going to try and get it properly installed to run alongside our gas hot water/central heating system but could we find anybody to do it? Not a chance. One man called round said he would call back, never heard a word. The others ignored the calls, and only one had the honesty to call back and say he couldn't do it.

Anyway thats off now till Summer, just enjoying the living fire.

Any comments/advice before I decide to drill, or not!

Ken68

Like a bathroom Vent Axia with or without a motor. Not sure. If there are fumes you will be spreading them about. The Council Building Regs dept should be able to assist.Carbon Monoxide alarm necessary.
What does the installer say?

This site is pretty good on these sort of things.
http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7836

mazzersdad

We already have the carbon monoxide alarm as the HETAS engineer wouldn't issue the certificate until we showed him we had one.

I might make further enquiries about a second one, but my query was more about whether by drilling thorugh at the rear of the fireplace would lose actual heat into the main room as it is being taken from the heating area around the stove..

The heat goes out through the door into the hallway, but the door has to be left open all the time to make sure and I thought by using a vent we could have the door shut as well!

Ken68

To get the same amount of heat through as that provided by a doorway size, would require a motor.
Some tech guys on here but they are having Christmas Dinner. Wait awhile.

w50nky

Merry Christmas.

I think you will have to consult building regs dept as it may be considered a fire risk if it connects "directly" to the hall and could increase the risk of any fire speading fast and impeding your escape route.

Owain_Moneysaver

mazzersdad wrote: »

By the way the Parkray has a water heater built into it. We filled this with sharp sand and this also reflects the heat back. We were going to try and get it properly installed to run alongside our gas hot water/central heating system but could we find anybody to do it? Not a chance. One man called round said he would call back, never heard a word. The others ignored the calls, and only one had the honesty to call back and say he couldn't do it.

Dunsley Neutraliser but other systems are available. eg . Discussion

The sensible answer really is to get the heat out of the Parkray and into the radiator system.

mazzersdad

Perhaps I made it sound move complicated than I think it is.

Knock a hole through the wall at the rear of the fireplace so that it vents directly into the hall. Use the convected heat from the area surround ing the stove to vent into the hall thereby warming the hall area and continuing, hopefully, to heat the lounge. I did read about somebody running heating tubes from the top of the reflector plate to various rooms in the house but we don't have the chimney room for that.

Yes, we went down the Dunsley Neutraliser route. Thats what we wanted to do initially, but wasted three weeks trying to find somebody to come and do it, and that included the local authority who have HETAS engineers to install what we were after. Given that up for the time being.

welda

They use vent system as you describe in France, in fact, MIL has a vent in hall, therefore allowing heat to dissapate. I can't see any reason why you cant do same? Obviously vent hole below register plate, I would also look at buying a stainless steel vent, one that you can open and close (sliding vent) so if you did have a problem, you can isolate to hall.

Re; coupling up to GCHS, I looked into this prior to stove purchase, hot water only. From a piping point of view, relatively easy task, no long runs required, biggest problem was from safety point of view, where does excess HW go when up to temp?

To install a large heat dump was not really an option, so I erred on keeping it simple and safe. I should also add, I have access to a large resource of knowledge for such information, evendown to installation work. Easier task if starting from a blank canvass!

Glad to read you filled stove boiler with sand.

HTH n :beer:

mazzersdad

Thanks for that info Welda, at least we know it might be a starter. We will probably just drill a few holes through first just to see what happens, and, if succesful knock out a larger hole.

We also have the problem of where to put a heat dump, the roof seemed to be the only place available, but thats on hold for the time being, probably until we can find somebody who actually might want to do it !

grahamc2003

I'd say it's pretty obvious that drilling holes will let some heat out, just like opening a door on a smaller scale. You'd probably get more heat out per area of hole if you drill them downwards from the hall (or upwards from the back of your stove).

There are regulations upon regulation about stoves though, on what you can and can't do. No idea if what you propose is against any regs or not - best to get some expert advice on that. I'm almost certain you won't be able to install a fan to suck the warm air into the hallway, as there would be a real danger of sucking flue gases out of the chimney/flue/stove, which could be deadly of course.

Thinking about it, simply drilling holes could set up the same, but lesser, pressure distributions as having a fan, if you hallway is very cold. I hope you get someone with knowledge of all the regs to post.

mazzersdad

Bit of a guide about all things woodburning including vents at 'stoves on line', the spam blocker won't let me put in the website details (no connections to me, I just came across it this evening, and very useful actually).