stuck washing machine isolator valve

penpitt

Please help me! my washing is piling up after moving in a new house!

The blue isolator valve for my washing machine is completely stuck in the off position.

The red isolating valve (not in use) was also stuck but with some brut force I managed to turn it 90 degrees to ascertain the 'on' position. After hosing myself down along with the cupboard I tried again to turn the cold water valve on 'on' - to no avail.

I rang 2 plumbers who were more than happy to come out and charge me the minimum call out fee of £40 + new valve +VAT. I am very tempted to find some tool in my toolbox to try and turn the valve round to the 'on' position using a little more force but thought it was worth checking here first.

I did read somewhere to take off the blue plastic bit and spray with WD40 but this is not an option since I stupidly tried to unscrew the little screw in the middle of the blue valve but just ended up mangling it (it did not turn to start with and I think I have ensured it will never turn again).

So, call a plumber, or try and turn it using a little more force?

Thanks

Myser

Try a pair of wide-nose pliers and gently turning the blue plastic lever. Do not force it as you risk breaking the lever.

If you know a bit of DIY/plumbing, you should be able to isolate the main water supply and replace the valve yourself.

Chunks

If you remove the plastic handle (has a little screw on the top) and see what you have (handle removed). If it's a square spindle sort of arrangment a small spanner or pilers will give you a more robust point to work on (but don't go mad - if you break it you run the risk of a cold bath).

If you cannot free the valve, assuming your washing machine draws its water from the mains and you know where the stop c0ck is (for the mains water) and can turn that off, it's a simple refit. The part you need is cheap as chips and will take minutes to replace (really). Post on here and you will get a step by step 'how to' guaranteed (or your money back...) .

DVardysShadow

Chunks wrote: »

If you remove the plastic handle (has a little screw on the top) and see what you have (handle removed). If it's a square spindle sort of arrangment a small spanner or pilers will give you a more robust point to work on (but don't go mad - if you break it you run the risk of a cold bath).

If you cannot free the valve, assuming your washing machine draws its water from the mains and you know where the stop c0ck is (for the mains water) and can turn that off, it's a simple refit. The part you need is cheap as chips and will take minutes to replace (really). Post on here and you will get a step by step 'how to' guaranteed (or your money back...) .

You can write stopcock on this site as long as you don't use a space. Apart from that I agree. For £40+VAT you can buy the materials and the tools to do this replacement.

ormus

you could buy it all for less than a tenner.
ive bought water pump pliers from the pound shop. not the best but they do the job.

Myser

I don't think the OP can remove the blue lever and the screw has been mangled.

A replacement valve isn't very expensive (<£2):

http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-x-washing-machine-valve-without-check-valve/51231

So long as you can isolate the main water supply, it's not too difficult to change. You may need a plumbing wrench.

penpitt

thank you all for your replies.
i'll have a go at turning the blue lever tomorrow gently with some pliers.

Assuming I'm successful next step (once I've caught up on my washing!) would be to replace the valve.
As mentioned the only problem is the screw in the middle of the blue lever is mangled, so I cannot remove the blue lever via the screw.
Anyone any ideas how to remove the blue lever so I can replace the entire valve?

Thank you.

Myser

You don't need to undo the lever to replace the valve.

You need to undo the valve thread on the pipe.

Look at the new valve in the Screwfix link I provided in my previous post.

penpitt

Getting the isolator valve off was the easy part!

Discovered after a visit to Wickes that my isolator valve is a non-standard size. It is the same width as the standard ones but the screw part that connects to the bit that contains the olive is slightly longer. This means that it only screws a couple of turns into the part with the olive (that I can't get off the pipe as the olive is very thick.) The olive on the replacement standard valve is a lot thinner.

I then drove to 4 different plumbing supplies and all they stocked was the standard size! There were different suggestions from each of them including: trying to take the existing olive off (no can do!) and extending the pipe and just adding on an entire new isolating valve with the bit that has the olive on (I'll call it the nut).

Hope this is all making sense!

I've just now reconnected the old one back, and added a few turns of PTFE tape. This seems to have done the trick, the slow leak has stopped, although I fear it is temporary. I would like to replace this non standard valve with a standard one - my old one still doesn't turn easily.

Can anyone tell me how to either add some more pipe on (above the existing nut) so I can add on an entirely new isolator valve and nut, or alternatively how to get the existing very thick olive off? Or anything else that might be easier!

Thank you.

Chunks

Firstly, well done. Unless your valve is as old as the hills, I am not totally convinced that you have a 'non-standard' fitting. It's probably not been fitted very well. I would invest in a pipe slice:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001I42R7Q/ref=asc_df_B001I42R7Q5665805?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&!!!!!googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B001I42R7Q

I would isolate the pipe, cut the old off and refit new. If you need to extend the pipe (once cut) buy one of these:

http://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/DEF/product/!!SPDCOUPLING15!!/D019003002/Plumbing%20Supplies%20&%20Heating%20Supplies/Speedfit%20Plastic%20Barrier%20Pipe%20&%20Speedfit%20Fittings/Speedfit%20Push%20Fit%20Fittings/Speedfit%20Couplers%20&%20Reducing%20Couplers/Speedfit%20Equal%20Straight%20Connector%2015mm%20-%20PEM0415W

and beg/steal some of this:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/copper-tube-15mm-2m-pack-of-10/31854

The pipe slice is an essential piece of kit IMHO and you will reuse it. It goes over the pipe and the steel wheel is the location of the cut. Twist one way (direction of arrow) and bobs your proverbial. Nice clean cut every time.

ormus

as above.
cut off the old bit and use a new olive.
dont forget to put the union nut on first, before the new olive.