Stripping lead paint (nighmare)

dave82_2

Hi,

In the house we are renovating We kept the original doors, architrave and staircase.

I used a self test kit which gave negative results for lead I was just about to start using a heat gun on the architrave when a nagging feeling (the house dates from 1928) made me give these guys a call http://www.lipsa.org.uk/ by some stroke of luck the main guy was 5 mins from my house and came over with some fancy xray based machine and tested the paint for me! Unfortunately it does indeed contain quite high levels of lead. He said sanding a 1cm2 of the paint would be enough to contaminate 6m2 at an unsafe level.

Out the window went the heat gun. I started using nitromorse instead. This does work however it took about 4 applications and as many hours to strip about 10cm of architrave.

So after the long story that I didn't cut short! Is there anything better than nitromorse?

Or better still is there a company in London that would come in a strip the wood for me? I can't find one anywhere, there are lots that will strip the doors offsite but no one that will come in and sort out the architrave etc.

Was hoping to finish the decorating during my week off instead I have achieved nothing more than alot of worry about the fact that I sanded some of the leaded paint which the self test came back negative on and 10cm of stripping.

Please help I don't want to spend the next year stripping the wood!

D

ormus

i used a heat gun on my staircase. it took me two weeks in total. (spare time).
semi detached c1935.
i never bothered about any lead problem, just made sure the area was well ventilated, and wore a dust mask.

i reckon chemical strippers are more dangerous than any lead paint.

Hintza

We still had lead pipes until last year. Lead becomes a problem over long exposure I wold do as Ormus suggests.

But then again I worked some of my holidays in Ship Breaking and was exposed to everything from Mercury to Blue Asbestos so I'm a bit gung ho.

Cough!

teneighty

You can use an electric heat gun on lead paint as long as you are very careful. Only heat the old paint until it is softened, dont burn it to a crisp. As long as you keep the temperature below 600 deg (might be 400 deg I haven't got the technical literature to hand) it will not vapourise the lead so it can be breathed in. You can only be harmed by lead if you breathe it in or eat/drink it.

Wear a face mask, keep the area closed off, dont let any dust collect on food or kitchen surfaces and wash your hands before you eat or smoke. Pregnant women and children are far more susceptible to lead poisoning so make sure they are well out of the way if you have any. Sanding can be far more dangerous as it generates so much fine dust.

Probably a good idea to do some research on stripping lead paint so that you are fully aware of the precautions you need to take.

Failing that the doors and architrave can be removed and sent away to be dipped.

Leif

It might be quicker to replace the architraves although that might lead to plaster damage. However I suspect you intend to repaint the door frame and door stop too, so you still have a problem. Try these people:

http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/I_want_to_remove.htm#7

I tested one of the paint strippers and it was far better than Nitromors. But it was very toxic i.e. it burnt my skin.

I found that the eco paint stripper (from B&Q etc) worked well (may depend on the paint though) and is relatively non toxic. However, it does need to be left on overnight as it works slowly.

dave82_2

Thanks all,

Just a bit downhearted about it to be honest. Would love to take the architrave off but the place has been replastered so don't want to wreck that.

Will send the doors to be dipped. Just going to have to persist. I might give one of the eco strippers a go see if they are any better.

Are there no companies that would do this sort of thing?

Cheers

D

dave82_2

I am going to give Peel away a go as it claims to nutralise the lead as well as stripping it. Anyone got any experience of this product? I have read it is quite expensive.

I can get 15kg of the stuff for ~£70. I know it depends on the paint but from anyone with any experiance is this volume likely to do 1 door frame and architrave or many?

DirectDebacle

dave82 I have done much of this work both in my own home (Victorian house) and professionally. The task is time consuming and to have someone do it for you will be very expensive and the results no better than you can achieve yourself.

Use a hot air gun with variable temp control. Set it to no higher than it takes for the paint to lift and blister. Keep the nozzle moving.This will avoid scorching the wood. As soon as blistering occurs move the gun to the next bit and using a blunt scraper remove the lifted paint. Continue until all the architrave has been stripped of as much paint as it can. With luck most of it will have been removed but there will be residue left. To remove this dip coarse (No.2) wire wool in your Nitromors and vigoursly rub it into the residue. Wear rubber gloves. Continue dipping and rubbing until all residue is gone. Turn or change the wire wool as it clogs. Neutralise the nitromors with a green Scotchguard pad soaked in meths. Use a proper Scotchguard not a cheap green supermarket one. They are not up to the job.

Note. Do not use wire wool on oak as it reacts with the steel and causes staining.

Use a blunt combination scraper, hot air gun and wire wool as above for mouldings.

When stripped and thoroughly washed in meths you are done. Sand as normal and prime if repainting.

Doors. Dipping is convenient but generally bad for old doors. They are usually placed in a tank of heated caustic soda. The water and heat causes the wood to swell and and it attacks the glue in the joints. furthermore when you get them back you may find a white powdery film appearing. This is the resue from the caustic soda coming out as the door dries. You will have to keep neutralising it with distilled (white) vinegar.

Better to have them chemically stripped or even better do it yourself using method described above.

As far as I recall most chemical strippers can be neutralised with meths and water based ones with white vinegar but check the instructions of the one you buy.

Try to avoid washing with water as this raises the grain and will mean additional sanding.

dave82_2

Thanks lots of good advice there :-) will roll my sleves up and get on with it!

dave82_2

Ha ha must have been affected by the lead can't spell nightmare LOL :j