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Please ensure your electrics are up to date!!!!!!!!!
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Gromit UK - yes I have thought about the pump and gone so far as to buy one. I can of have the idea as to what you mentioned but am not sure how to go about making a suitable hole in the concrete floor to make the well for the pump. Also what would be suitable to put into the hole to make the well and where would I get it from?
AdrianW2 - yes I agree it seems ridiculous.
I also forgot to mention that I thought that if the lec meter wasn't earthed properly it would be the meter peoples responsibility. I remembered a mail shot of them trying to replace the meters (mine is one of the old ones with a cracked glass face) so I figured that if they came to change the meter they would need to sort the earth, but after chatting it over with the company responsible they said that I was responsible for a visible earth on the old meter and if it didnt have one I would need to pay to have one fitted. So I left it at that. Is this a big issue too - if apparently there is a ground earth?
It all seems so complex just to move a couple of sockets0 -
As these sockets are not in a bathroom or a kitchen, is it not just a case of locating the cable in the cement (?) of the wall and cutting to reach the cable, then simply fitting a nice new socket, say 3 ft off the floor.Regardless of the socket situation, I would consider installing a pump to remove the water. You will need to dig a sump big enough for the pump and deep enough for it to be immersed enough for its float switch to operate before it is full. You'll then need to run its outlet tube up to the nearest drain. Pumps for this application are quite cheap - £30 or so - and have a 10m mains lead that you can plug in upstairs.
Beware of cutting through the "tanking"0 -
You're right, but I reckon the tanking isn't of much use in this case!Time is an illusion - lunch time doubly so.0
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I assume by tanking you mean trunking?
Anyway....
New work (and MOVING a socket counts as new work) is required to meet current regs.
Current regs (probably) require an RCD in this case (there ARE exceptions)
Therefore, if your current Consumer Unit does not have an RCD covering the circuit in question then you MAY need a new CU (there ARE alternatives)
Get a scheme registered firm (I recommend NAPIT registered Electricians because EVERY NAPIT spark has been individually assessed, not true for other schemes) to do a Periodic Inspection Report. This will highlight any safety issues.0 -
... and it is a lot cheaper than the other works mentioned.
At the end of it, you should know what needs doing.0 -
dwarvenassassin wrote: »I assume by tanking you mean trunking?Time is an illusion - lunch time doubly so.0
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I would suggest you get someone in to do a periodic test, this will show any faults and cost around £100-£150 (depending on size of house)
As it has been mentioned here, the wiring regs say you need to check Protective bonding (earthing of water / gas / metal heating pipes) and the state of the eath in the house
You may carry out some maintenance work OK, but most alteration works require bringing caertain things up to standard
The earth is the consumers resonsability (unless one has been already supplied from the electrical distrubutor- then it's their problem). If there is no earth then you can get the bonding done and ask for an earth (usually done by providing PME these days- getting technical now)
As far as the faulty trip switch and earth problems- this needs attending to as soon as possible. Someone could get hurt (or worse)
You should get a compotent person in to do the workbaldly going on...0 -
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Lisap, get yourself an old water tank - the small plastic one perhaps & fit that in the hole.
(I have similar cellar problems & wont convert mine till this wet stuff is banished forever).
You can use flexible piping to take it externally & you may have to also dig a channel in the floor for that (stihle saw?) too & then a hole to the outside world.
Of course, that also will need power, so the low down sockets really need moving up higher as your wanting.
What are your walls made of & where does the wiring come from to reach them?
If they are plasterboard on timber frame with all the tanking behind then you should be able to remove the socket plate & then the back box & see where the cables are coming from.
If they are coming from above & can see up where it goes with torch & mirror &the area is clear you can put a hole up above for the new back box, turn off power (use torches now) disconnect the socket, pull the wiring up & reconnect & refit it all.
As for LABC notification, myself for something as small as this it's a bit pointless & over expensive.
The problem is that tradesmen are under obligation to bring it upto current stds which is very expensive, yet a DIYr notifying the LABC will also incur a hefty fee for something so small.
However if it is done DIY then who the heck will know & who checks wether people have DIY'd stuff & who knows of a DIYr that has been prosecuted or unable to sell the house because of it?
As long as it is done safely then that is really what matters, the rest is just paperwork.0 -
Fantastic thread, wish I found you ages ago lol.:T:T:T:TThe one and only "Dizzy Di"0
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