Adding new window boards

modelreject

Hi,

I have lived in my house for a year and I want to replace some old PVC window boards. They look very cheap, are scratched and the previous owner had done a shoddy job installing them.

I want to do this properly as I'm quite fastidious and I want it to last and not have the next owner think the same of me as I do the previous owner myself.

From what I have researched I think I can get wood window boards cut to size by a local timber merchant. Now all I need to know is:

1. What type of wood should I use
2. Should I paint the wood before installing?
3. What type of paint should I use? I want a high quality look and feel and was thinking white satin?
4. How best can I protect that satin finish? Will I add a clear coat or will that defeat the satin look?
5. Once I rip out the old PVC boards I assume I will have to cut a greater depth into the walls at the side to fit the thicker boards in.
6. It is a 1930s house and I know there can be problems with damp etc. How can I best prepare so that the boards repel moisture effectively. Also how fo I make draft proof? Will the plaster simply take care of that?
7. Should I screw down plywood and level before gluing the boards down?

Lots of questions I know. Any help much appreciated.

Thanks,
C

McAzrael

1. If you're painting them, then MDF. Or use meranti or sapele or some other decent hardwood.
2. Prime before, paint afterwards.
3. Interior gloss or satin, the same as all the rest of the woodwork in your house.
4. The whole big advantage of timber boards over UPVC ones is that when they start to look a bit worn you sand them down and paint them again. There's no need to protect them.
5. The boards should be notched round the reveal, not cut into it.
6. You've probably got a solid wall so the boards won't be closing anything up.
7. There really shouldn't be any need.

ormus

what type of wood? well, hardwood is the best but expensive.
as to what finish you require only you can answer that.
a high quality look? with white paint it all looks much the same.
no point varnishing satin paint. you may as well use gloss paint in the first place.
if the new boards are thicker then yes you will have to cut bigger slots in the walls.
you can screw or glue them in place, or both. you may not require any plywood underneath. most boards fit direct onto the walls.

undercoating any wood will help with future moisture probs.
(2 coats before fixing).


using softwood is far cheaper. get the pressure treated type. or use marine ply.

tony6403

I have fitted a number of window boards using bullnosed pine , upvc and MDF. The latter needs a router to properly shape the edges.
I prefer upvc which obviously needs no finishing .
A coat of paint on pine or MDF can be beneficial before fitting to reduce the chance of any swelling from the wet plaster. Painting MDF can result in "pinholing" if the correct paint is not used.
Window boards almost always extend 75mm or so each side of the window opening (plaster depth only) and you will have to make good the plaster after fitting the new ones.
I very much doubt that you will encounter any damp problems in a window aperture. Obviously condensation on the windows can run onto the window boards.
I have never seen or used plywood under a window board and just use gunnable adhesive to secure to cleaned brick/blockwork.

elver_man

You've got several answers already but here are a few for consideration.

1)

I would go for a hardwood myself if cost is not an option, an example of prices I pay for both are:-

Redwood Windowboard 32 x 225 @ £4 per meter plus Vat

Hardwood Windowboard 32 x 225 @ £16 per meter plus Vat

These may not be the cheapest but my Timber yard is great at finishing to my exact requirements.


2)

I knot, prime to seal and then undercoat first but every one has their own method.

3)

Only you can answer, but as has been said wouldn't varnish satin, if you wanted a gloss finish use a good quality High Gloss in the first place.

7)

Not seen plywood used before, glue and / or screw as necessary

modelreject

Thanks so much for all the info. With regards to point 5 there are two different answers from Ormus and McAzrael. When I look at boards in other peoples houses it looks as if they are actually sitting in the side walls. I sort of need a definitive answer as to whether cut out more of the wall or cut a notch in the board. :-)

Also, with regards to the window frame should the board just press up against the bottom of the frame or go under slilghtly. I would assume pressed against?

tony6403

modelreject wrote: »

Thanks so much for all the info. With regards to point 5 there are two different answers from Ormus and McAzrael. When I look at boards in other peoples houses it looks as if they are actually sitting in the side walls. I sort of need a definitive answer as to whether cut out more of the wall or cut a notch in the board. :-)

Also, with regards to the window frame should the board just press up against the bottom of the frame or go under slilghtly. I would assume pressed against?

Don't cut into the wall but do sink it into the plaster - i.e. cut the board so that it meets the brickwork.
Fit the board against the frame not under it.

modelreject

Thanks Tony. Have you fitted boards yourself? Any other tips or advice?

tony6403

modelreject wrote: »

Thanks Tony. Have you fitted boards yourself? Any other tips or advice?

please see my earlier post in this thread

modelreject

Sorry. In a rush and brain going a million miles an hour. Thanks again.