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Bleed screw in raditor-is it possible to replace?

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  • keystone wrote: »
    with the first two they can usually be extracted with some long nosed pliers after liberal application of WD40. Problem with these designs is that the rad tapping rusts over time and nicely seals the bleed screw.
    If rust is the problem, then WD40 is not so useful. Plusgas is a far better product for this situation.
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  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Agreed but the WD40 will disperse mositure and it'll be wet too. In addition more peeps have WD40 hanging around their garage than a can of Plusgas anyhow.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • agav
    agav Posts: 48 Forumite
    Hey,
    Tried WD40 but it made the bleed screw slippery. Still no luck getting it off. Though we managed to open one by treating it a bit with a hammer... So one done another one to go. Might try with plusgas just like advised. Need to go to the shop first though.
    Can't thank you all enough for your help. This forum gives the best help and quickly! :T
  • karl-123
    karl-123 Posts: 360 Forumite
    take the rad off belt the head off with a mini chisel,or extract with long nose pliers,
    belt the head with a needle punch or drill it out with a hss bit,
    and screw a new one in...or use a tap and die .......
    or drill another hole and use a tap and die.......
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    keystone wrote: »
    with the first two they can usually be extracted with some long nosed pliers............
    karl-123 wrote: »
    or extract with long nose pliers,
    Well I suppose there had to be something we would agree on sooner or later. LoL. Htg Eng is going to be upset.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • keystone wrote: »
    If its in the back of the panel, which what I think is what you are saying, thats going to be a problem for access. Another poster thinks it might be different so perhaps we should clarify it once and for all:

    Is it like this:

    this:

    the first two they can usually be extracted with some long nosed pliers after liberal application of WD40. Problem with these designs is that the rad tapping rusts over time and nicely seals the bleed screw.

    The second one is easy to get to. The first not so and its the first I thought you were describing.

    The third image is exactly as other poster has already mentioned.

    Cheers

    I have a broken screw exactly the type in image2 ..any ideas where I can get a replacement ?
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