Which wood paint stays white the longest?

misgrace

They are getting better Buck, specially the 'crown breatheasy' one I mentioned earlier, I am a professional P&D, and I swear by oilbase, it is much better to work with, but it does yellow.
I would never use the waterbase on new wood, no matter what it says on the tin, or on a bare radiator, but if you use oilbase first on new wood, IE prime and undercoat , then you can carry on with the waterbase.
On wood thats previously painted then water base is okay.

As for the brushmarks, unfortunately waterbase is famous for that, even though they have improved.
The trick is to pour some into a paint kettle or conatiner, add a little water and stir, (only on waterbase paint) that should make the paint go on smoother.
Also, if you do the laying off of technique with your brush it minimises the brush marks.

jap200

Misgrace - thanks for the tips above - please can you explain to the non-professional like me what you mean by this though

misgrace wrote:

Also, if you do the laying off of technique with your brush it minimises the brush marks.

By the way, I got a response the the original question from Dulux this morning - gives the same info, but slightly more detailed:

"Thank you for taking the time to contact us.

All oil-based paints are prone to yellowing, but this is accelerated
when they are excluded from direct daylight or subjected to higher
temperatures. This is why gloss on radiators yellows faster than gloss
on skirting boards, for example. If a new carpet has been laid recent to
the application of the gloss, the ammonia found in carpet underlay can
cause the yellowing to accelerate.

At present there is no means of eliminating yellowing from decorative
oil-based paints, though better ventilation and more daylight will help
them keep their colour for longer.

The best alternative is to use a waterborne acrylic gloss paint such as
Dulux Quick Drying Gloss or Quick Drying Satinwood. Water based paints
have excellent anti-yellowing properties, are very low odour and dry
much faster than solvent based paints.

I hope this information is of use to you."

I think I am going to give the water-based acrylic paint a go. I have found quite a lot of trade outlets such as Brewers listed in my phone book. It would never have occured to me to go there before - but will give them a go.

I'm so glad I asked this question before rushing out to buy the paint. I would have assumed that the oil-based paints would have yellowed quicker, whereas it is the other way around. It seems that the water-based are more difficult to get a good finish with - but if it means that it will stay white for longer (and yes - I really do want pure white), then it will be worth the extra effort - I hope.

uncle_buck_3

Reading between the lines I suspect water based is still rubbish :undecided ....In my opinion there is no point in having the internal paintings in your house painted with a paint that doesn’t yellow but is full of brush marks!

In my last house I installed a spindle staircase….I painted the spindles & newel posts before they were fitted….I used Japlac (International Paints)….the finish was amazing with no visible brush marks….so much so that to this day my mate doesn’t believe that I brush painted them …he thinks I had them sprayed by a spray painter I know :rolleyes2

misgrace

Hi Jap, I will try and explain as best as I can what 'laying off with the brush means'

Say for example you are painting a skirting board,(you really only need to do this with wood), you would perhaps start in the right hand corner, which you should start in a corner really, but until you get into the swing of it, its best for the DIYer to do it like this......

Dip your brush into your paint kettle or container, sort of wipe the surplus of the rim, then start approx 4-6 inches away from the RH corner or LH whatever you prefer, then brush into the corner.
*this then helps to have not too much paint if you started directly in the corner, and less chance of it running in the corner*

After you have gone into your corner, then dip and wipe the surplus off, then start painting again where you left off (dry bit) (6" or so from the corner) working your way along the skirting.
After you have done a bit of the skirting,maybe do about 10" till you get the hang of it, get your brush, and work the brush into the wet bit you have just done, so you are in theory brushing from the dry bit you havent painted yet, into the wet bit, dip your brush in again, and carry on painting a dry bit,and before you load your brush again for the next dry bit, work again from the dry bit you havent painted yet into the wet bit, going in the one direction, sort of sweeping the brush along the skirting,(this is called laying off with the brush) keep doing that till you come to the end of your skirting, then start again on the next wall.

You will not get any brush marks if you do it like that, and the same applies to frames, door etc.

Its so difficult to explain, and yet it would only take 2 mins to show you lol.

if you need any more help let me know.:D

jap200

misgrace - thanks for such a detailed explanation. I am starting this evening doing a door frame (I only have time to do this in the evenings after the kids are in bed) and will try this out - I am sure it will make sense when I actually start doing it!