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How to paint edges of architrave

Leif
Posts: 3,727 Forumite
I've painted the ceilings, coving and walls, and got a nice straight edge along the edges of the architraves, skirting and coving using an angled cutting in brush. The next step is to paint the skirting and architraves. How do I get a straight edge where the architrave meets the wall? The architrave is only 1/2" thick. Do I run an angled brush down, so the brush is sort of parallel to the wall? Or do I use a special brush? Or are there numpty techniques?
My method of cutting in on walls is a numpty method that works for me, but I don't think pros would use it. Thanks.

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ok it's not cheap, but frogtape is absolutely brill for getting a straight edge! (it's a masking tape, but a reeeally good one that's specifically designed for this sort of thing).0
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I just take my time. I slowly put one swipe of paint down, nearly but not quite on the line, substantially unloading the brush. And then I take another swipe slowly on the line, with the depleted paint brush. This manoeuvres the paint into the right position but does not overload the contact point with paint.Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure - MSE ForumTeam0
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As an artist drawing or painting a straight line you get a brush the correct width but angle it, use your rigid pinky on the wall as you go along as a guide with the other hand holding the front of the painting elbow.
Or use a pencil line or tape.
You can correct any mistakes with paint later anyway.:)
Sounds amazing. Good luck0 -
DVardysShadow wrote: »I just take my time. I slowly put one swipe of paint down, nearly but not quite on the line, substantially unloading the brush. And then I take another swipe slowly on the line, with the depleted paint brush. This manoeuvres the paint into the right position but does not overload the contact point with paint.
Curious, that is exactly the technique I used for the walls. Any particular kind of brush? I have angled 1" brushes, and some nice Purdys, 1", 1.5", 2" and 3".Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
Plain 25mm bristle brush. eg Hamilton. Not synthetic bristles.Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure - MSE ForumTeam0
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Standard 1.5" or 2" paint brush plus a steady(ish!) hand. Hold the brush near base of handle (i.e nearest bristles) like a pen. Length of bristles parallel to the length of the architrave. Load the brush, make contact with the brush slightly away from the edge then sweep upto the edge in a slight arc, follow along the edge maybe 1/2 inch or more with the length of the bristles then move away again and repeat. Have a damp rag to hand for if you mess up and go too far.
Piddly little brushes mean you have to have a steadier hand. I didn't believe myself that a bigger brush would make it easier until i tried it.
I do know that many pros use a larger brush. For the walls, I was able to do a 6" length in one stroke and get a good result using the method mentioned earlier. But oil paint scares me! It's satin, not gloss though.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
6" is too far for one brush stroke - much more than an inch and the line may start to get a bit wavy (depending how steady your hand is!). Just don't overload the brush, take your time but be confident with your brush strokes. If it's oil based have a white spirit soaked rag rather than damp one.
Not at all. I can get straight lines. The secret as stated earlier is to paint a good amount of paint close to the edge but not on it, and unload the brush. Then I press the (angled) brush down so it splays out, and drag the edges of the bristles along the edge. The paint already on the wall loads the brush, and it gets drawn towards the ends of the bristles and onto the edge. I can get near perfect lines down the edges of architraves, and I can do it fairly quickly. Even so so it took three hours to cut in the hallway, with 7 architraves and one door way to cut round. But, this method relies on painting close to the edge, and squidging the brush down, which I cannot do on the edge of an architrave.
I usually paint the woodwork before the walls as it's so much easier to wipe emulsion off painted woodwork than vice versa. Pros usually do the emulsion first simply because it dries quicker so they don't have to waste time waiting for paint to dry...plus they'll be better and more experienced at painting straight lines in the first place!
Yes, I did the walls first as that is what pros say to do. I get anxious about painting wood. Walls are so easy. Watching pros paint is impressive. To be honest I am tempted to pay a pro to do the woodwork. I have done the prep, which is a large part of the cost.
Do people paint the architrave, then the frame and door stop, or the architrave and the frame on the same side?Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
andrew b is correct.
the bigger the brush, the easier it is.
most amatuers dont believe this fact.
i rarely use anything but a 2 inch brush for any painting of woodwork.
a 7 inch brush makes the wall/ceiling join, simple.Get some gorm.0 -
andrew b is correct.
the bigger the brush, the easier it is.
most amatuers dont believe this fact.
i rarely use anything but a 2 inch brush for any painting of woodwork.
a 7 inch brush makes the wall/ceiling join, simple.
I do believe him, as I've read many pros say just that. When I asked for a cutting in brush at Cane Adam, the assistant said many pros use a 4" brush. The problem is that I tried many times using the pro method with a 2" Purdy brush (i.e. good brush), and made a right mess. My method works well for me on walls. It is fairly fast and accurate. I may well get some scrap wood (from the old kitchen) and practice the pro method.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0
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