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Soundproofing - alternatives to Wickes insulation
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Jackie079
Posts: 18 Forumite
Hi everyone,
I am wanting to soundproof one of the party walls and was looking at this product for insulating the stud wall. (after reading much info on this method)
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/161189
However, It will prove quite costly. Does anyone know of a cheaper, but just as effective alternative ?
ETA: I was then going to put a double layer of soundbloc plasterboard over this, - would I need both the heavy insulation 'and' double soundbloc?
thanks
Jackie x
I am wanting to soundproof one of the party walls and was looking at this product for insulating the stud wall. (after reading much info on this method)
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/161189
However, It will prove quite costly. Does anyone know of a cheaper, but just as effective alternative ?
ETA: I was then going to put a double layer of soundbloc plasterboard over this, - would I need both the heavy insulation 'and' double soundbloc?
thanks
Jackie x
0
Comments
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I'll be really interested in the responses to this as I'm thinking of it too. Jackies, if you do go ahead please let us know what the results are like.
Won't you loose quite a bit of your room though using the proposed methods c.9 inches or so...?As is a tale, so is life: not how long it is, but how good it is, is what matters.0 -
A few different choices here.
Soundproofing walls
The ones here and Wickes both seem expensive, i wonder could you use loft insulation ?Liverpool is one of the wonders of Britain,
What it may grow to in time, I know not what.
Daniel Defoe: 1725.
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We did insulate the party wall on the first floor with this Wickes heavy duty insulation (expensive)& some soundproof plasterboard on top - ensure that joints are staggered.......would say yes it works except when you can't insulate the fireplace on the same wall.
In summary, maybe a waste of time for us and my god that stuff was heavy to get upstairs. I can still hear the radio faintly next door, but no more...and they are a musical family so thats probably not too bad0 -
thanks for the replies guys,
@muskoka, could you explain a bit more about staggering the joints?
I'm not sure how many wall inches this will take up, - i've read it can be approx 4 inches, I suppose just depending on how many layers you want to use. I may only use 1 layer of soundbloc and see if that makes a difference,
Jackie x0 -
How about laminate flooring underlay, the green boards rather than the rolls of foam?A shadowy flight into the dangerous world of a man who does not exist.
A young loner on a crusade to champion the cause of the innocent,
the helpless, the powerless, in a world of criminals who operate above the law.0 -
I'll have to check with hubby & hes not here at moment. Will ask & get back to you tomorrow. Basically though I think fit the Wickes stuff & then the soundboard plasterboard over, but dont put joints on plasterboard at same place as where the joints are in the Wickes stuff.
i.e. If the Wickes stuff is about 3' wide, then stagger the top board at 18" joints.....not explaining this very well. Will get back to you tomorrow.0 -
in my experience
Ive studded and framed/ insulated ALL walls in my victorian terrace (Internal/ external/ party)
Gap of c1cm then studs (Insulated with mineral fibre inbetween) Plasterboard, skim, paint
Works very well.
In rooms with chimney breasts in, you have a breach (As at the back of the breast which obviouly isnt framed) you have a double skinned solid wall to next door, with no plaster on the other side, so if you go near the breasts in those rooms, you can hear things at low levels/ late at night. Less so if theres a fireplace, if its an open hearth you hear more
My $0.020 -
ok, we used 2" x 1" battening screwed straight to wall, Wickes slabs between battening and then .5" soundcheck plasterboard on top & plastered on top.0
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thanks for this guys, - this really helps,
@jc808 - I noticed you said that you left a gap of 1cm and then the studs, - do you mean there was then an 'unfilled' gap between the wall and then the start of your stud frame? I thought the insulation had to be padded into the gap (so to speak) right up to the wall and then the plasterboard on top?
@muskoka, re: the soundcheck plasterboard, is this the same as soundbloc by Gyproc etc? how did it compare price wise?
thanks again for your help guys
Jackie x0
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