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Soundproofing - alternatives to Wickes insulation

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Jackie079
Jackie079 Posts: 18 Forumite
Hi everyone,

I am wanting to soundproof one of the party walls and was looking at this product for insulating the stud wall. (after reading much info on this method)

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/161189

However, It will prove quite costly. Does anyone know of a cheaper, but just as effective alternative ?

ETA: I was then going to put a double layer of soundbloc plasterboard over this, - would I need both the heavy insulation 'and' double soundbloc?

thanks

Jackie x

Comments

  • I'll be really interested in the responses to this as I'm thinking of it too. Jackies, if you do go ahead please let us know what the results are like.

    Won't you loose quite a bit of your room though using the proposed methods c.9 inches or so...?
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  • SailorSam
    SailorSam Posts: 22,754 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    edited 24 September 2011 at 7:33PM
    A few different choices here.

    Soundproofing walls

    The ones here and Wickes both seem expensive, i wonder could you use loft insulation ?
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  • muskoka
    muskoka Posts: 1,124 Forumite
    We did insulate the party wall on the first floor with this Wickes heavy duty insulation (expensive)& some soundproof plasterboard on top - ensure that joints are staggered.......would say yes it works except when you can't insulate the fireplace on the same wall.

    In summary, maybe a waste of time for us and my god that stuff was heavy to get upstairs. I can still hear the radio faintly next door, but no more...and they are a musical family so thats probably not too bad
  • thanks for the replies guys,

    @muskoka, could you explain a bit more about staggering the joints?

    I'm not sure how many wall inches this will take up, - i've read it can be approx 4 inches, I suppose just depending on how many layers you want to use. I may only use 1 layer of soundbloc and see if that makes a difference,

    Jackie x
  • guy999
    guy999 Posts: 325 Forumite
    How about laminate flooring underlay, the green boards rather than the rolls of foam?
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  • muskoka
    muskoka Posts: 1,124 Forumite
    I'll have to check with hubby & hes not here at moment. Will ask & get back to you tomorrow. Basically though I think fit the Wickes stuff & then the soundboard plasterboard over, but dont put joints on plasterboard at same place as where the joints are in the Wickes stuff.

    i.e. If the Wickes stuff is about 3' wide, then stagger the top board at 18" joints.....not explaining this very well. Will get back to you tomorrow.
  • jc808
    jc808 Posts: 1,756 Forumite
    in my experience

    Ive studded and framed/ insulated ALL walls in my victorian terrace (Internal/ external/ party)

    Gap of c1cm then studs (Insulated with mineral fibre inbetween) Plasterboard, skim, paint

    Works very well.
    In rooms with chimney breasts in, you have a breach (As at the back of the breast which obviouly isnt framed) you have a double skinned solid wall to next door, with no plaster on the other side, so if you go near the breasts in those rooms, you can hear things at low levels/ late at night. Less so if theres a fireplace, if its an open hearth you hear more

    My $0.02
  • muskoka
    muskoka Posts: 1,124 Forumite
    ok, we used 2" x 1" battening screwed straight to wall, Wickes slabs between battening and then .5" soundcheck plasterboard on top & plastered on top.
  • Jackie079
    Jackie079 Posts: 18 Forumite
    edited 25 September 2011 at 6:15PM
    thanks for this guys, - this really helps,

    @jc808 - I noticed you said that you left a gap of 1cm and then the studs, - do you mean there was then an 'unfilled' gap between the wall and then the start of your stud frame? I thought the insulation had to be padded into the gap (so to speak) right up to the wall and then the plasterboard on top?

    @muskoka, re: the soundcheck plasterboard, is this the same as soundbloc by Gyproc etc? how did it compare price wise?

    thanks again for your help guys

    Jackie x
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