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Kitchen tap (cold only) splutter!!

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  • Barneysmom
    Barneysmom Posts: 10,136 Ambassador
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Combo Breaker
    The hot cold polarity thing, is true.
    The cold should always be on the right, so blind or poor sighted people don't get scalded.
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  • birkee
    birkee Posts: 1,933 Forumite
    Ruski wrote: »
    As long as the copper is clean and round with no snots of lead, and you've cut the pipes with a cutter rather than a hacksaw then yes!
    Just one bit of advice before you go cutting into pipes - make sure you can cut off (isolate) both the cold AND hot water supplies before you go hacking away...

    This made no sense at all.
    Why should they "cut" pipes?
    And there is no mention of solder fittings or compression fittings.
    And if they need to cut pipes, they would need to replumb anyway, because the pipes couldn't be swiched over without doing so.
    They could of course use flexible tap tails.

    Then again, if it's one of these dual taps that control both hot and cold, then they are on flexibles anyway aren't they? Just a case of unscrewing the two feeds and reversing them.
    Where does the "snots of lead" and "pipe cutting" and "hacking away" come into the equation?
  • birkee
    birkee Posts: 1,933 Forumite
    Barneysmom wrote: »
    The hot cold polarity thing, is true.
    The cold should always be on the right, so blind or poor sighted people don't get scalded.

    I know there's a basic convention Barneysmom, but not many DIY'ers will take any notice. And what about dual control taps? Is hot to the left or right?
    Not that it matters much anyway, because if the lift lever is central, it will be a mix of hot and cold anyway.

    My advice? If you are blind, feel the tap temperature, you never know WHO plumbed it in. :)
  • dave82_2
    dave82_2 Posts: 1,328 Forumite
    If you get a cloth or duster try holding it tight over the spout the turn the cold water on. This can force the air out as it escapes through the cloth more easily than the water.

    If water comes shooting out the sides you aren't holding it tightly enough.

    Remember not to put to much upward force on your spout!
  • Ruski
    Ruski Posts: 1,628 Forumite
    birkee wrote: »
    This made no sense at all.
    Why should they "cut" pipes?
    And there is no mention of solder fittings or compression fittings.
    And if they need to cut pipes, they would need to replumb anyway, because the pipes couldn't be swiched over without doing so.
    They could of course use flexible tap tails.

    Then again, if it's one of these dual taps that control both hot and cold, then they are on flexibles anyway aren't they? Just a case of unscrewing the two feeds and reversing them.
    Where does the "snots of lead" and "pipe cutting" and "hacking away" come into the equation?


    Just another case of not reading advice properly!
    Chin has already told us that the taps are plumbed in in copper and no flexible tails are fitted.
    The convention on hot/cold positions is corect through many years of experience - even manufacturers state this in their instructions and go ask any plumber.
    Hot water being shrouded by cold water is safer to a two year old than cold water shrouded in hot water - not all 'mixer' taps actually blend the two temperatures of water - as in this case "the cold comes out of the small inner hole".
    The advice to use pushfit hoses to swap the feeds to the tap is the 'simplest' answer. At no point did Chin say that they had the competency to remove the taps and re-plumb in copper - it's a ball-ache of a job at the best of times.
    And if you've not come across snot, hacking and pipe cutters in pursuit of your daily bread then I sincerely hope that you are playing devils advocate by questioning any advice given here in good faith.:mad:
    Perfection takes time: don't expect miracles in a day :D
  • birkee
    birkee Posts: 1,933 Forumite
    Ruski wrote: »
    Just another case of not reading advice properly!
    Chin has already told us that the taps are plumbed in in copper and no flexible tails are fitted.
    The convention on hot/cold positions is corect through many years of experience - even manufacturers state this in their instructions and go ask any plumber.
    Hot water being shrouded by cold water is safer to a two year old than cold water shrouded in hot water - not all 'mixer' taps actually blend the two temperatures of water - as in this case "the cold comes out of the small inner hole".
    The advice to use pushfit hoses to swap the feeds to the tap is the 'simplest' answer. At no point did Chin say that they had the competency to remove the taps and re-plumb in copper - it's a ball-ache of a job at the best of times.
    And if you've not come across snot, hacking and pipe cutters in pursuit of your daily bread then I sincerely hope that you are playing devils advocate by questioning any advice given here in good faith.:mad:

    It was a bit of devils advocate to be honest.
    But as my first house had to be done very fast, because the cold water stop !!!! shut off a block of houses, it had to be done in a hurry.
    The water was shut off unexpectedly by the local authority, and I had to cut off the lead pipe rising from the kitchen floor, burn in a copper pipe, and get a stop !!!! connected PDQ. Then I had to get the sink unit online fast, for meals for children. At that time I knew nothing about cold on the left or right tap, and didn't have time to find out when the water was shut off.
    So now you know where I'm coming from about not expecting conventions to be used.
    I've fitted a few bathrooms and kitchens since those days though, but not so far, the modern combined tap.
  • plumb1_2
    plumb1_2 Posts: 4,395 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    birkee wrote: »
    So now you know where I'm coming from about not expecting conventions to be used.
    I've fitted a few bathrooms and kitchens since those days though, but not so far, the modern combined tap.

    I hope you didn't charge people!!!!!!!!!!!

    As for the OP, fit a pressure reducing valve to the cold supply to the tap. You will have difference in presures at the tap, as the hot supply from the combi will be restricted.
  • birkee
    birkee Posts: 1,933 Forumite
    plumb1 wrote: »
    I hope you didn't charge people!!!!!!!!!!!

    As for the OP, fit a pressure reducing valve to the cold supply to the tap. You will have difference in presures at the tap, as the hot supply from the combi will be restricted.

    Nope, never charged anybody.
    It was always myself, family and friends who managed to keep me occupied.
    Then again, you're assuming I never did learn the conventions in force. Were there any in the early 70's?
    My first job was done in rush, all else has been done by arrangement.

    Until I gave in to retirement, I would back my standard of work against almost anybody's, and certainly against the crap work done for me by British Gas. I could do better with my eyes shut, but of course, I'm not allowed to fit a boiler now am I? I have to hand it over to a cack handed professional. (Paper qualified of course, not qualified by the quality of their work.)
  • Ruski
    Ruski Posts: 1,628 Forumite
    You can do whatever you like in your own home Birkee - I would just advise against it - strongly!
    Perfection takes time: don't expect miracles in a day :D
  • birkee
    birkee Posts: 1,933 Forumite
    Ruski wrote: »
    You can do whatever you like in your own home Birkee - I would just advise against it - strongly!

    'sif I need your advice.....why did I have BG to do my boiler?
    As if I needed an inferior job doing.
    It's quite easy to find out the regulations, so you can keep your patronising advice.
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