Painting concrete floor in a utility room

TUS

The floor in our utility room really needs repainting. The room is pretty much part of our garage with a partition wall seperating the two ... so it's not as internal as the kitchen for example.

The floor is currently painted with a dark red/terracotta floor paint ... however this is so old that in many places it has flaked off and the concrete is exposed. I don't think it was a great job originally TBH, as it was done well before we moved in.

So .... my question is - what are the best steps to take?

1. Stripping existing paint off? I assume this is a good idea, rather than trying to paint over what has not flaked off yet. What product do I use to strip off what is left?

2. Preparing the bare floor - do I need to seal it in anyway, or use an undercoat before applying the proper non-slip floor paint?

3. The "main" paint ... I'm going to use a similar colour non-slip floor paint (ronseal quick dry stuff). Any ideas if floor paints need multiple coats?

4. Does it need "sealing" at the end? I am assuming not, as it would take away the purpose of the non-slip aspect of the floor paint?

Any other tips?

Thanks in advance.

macman

No need to remove the old floor paint, just remove the loose flaking pant and rub down as necessary.
If it was done properly then the concrete would have been sealed before the original paint was applied. If the surface is reasonably dust free then it will have been sealed.
It doesn't need any sealing coat on top.

TUS

macman wrote: »

No need to remove the old floor paint, just remove the loose flaking pant and rub down as necessary.
If it was done properly then the concrete would have been sealed before the original paint was applied. If the surface is reasonably dust free then it will have been sealed.
It doesn't need any sealing coat on top.

If I sweep over the areas of flaky it is VERY dusty, so I don't think it's been sealed :-(

What grade sandpaper will I need to rub down? It's a small room, so am thinking I can do it by hand/with a sanding block rather than having to get a sander in.

macman

I meant the areas that are not peeling-obviously the flaking areas are going to be dusty from the flaking!

crazyguy

You can mix some pva glue and water togther to seal it before painting it,

Freeman01

Do you own an electric sander? If so buy a roll of 80G paper-usually coloured green- and sand the floor. This will create a lot of dust so make sure you wear a dustmask and keep door/windows open. Once you have cleaned up ALL the dust and/or paint particles mop or wash the floor thoroughly and let it dry. Follow the advice given above about PVA and water mix. Before you start painting the floor proper,cut in all the edges then use either a lambswool roller or 4'' paintbrush and apply the first coat. 6/7 hours later apply a second coat and leave to dry for 24 hours. If you're going to do it then do it properly. It is a good way to spend 2 days!

Regards.

Freeman01

olias

Just a warning...

Take flloring paint drying times with a pinch of salt. They normally say 'touch dry in 6 hours, can be walked on in 12', or something like that. In my experience, you double or even quadruple the drying times stated, particularly if the area is unheated, and we are getting into cooler weather.

Olias

TUS

Freeman01 wrote: »

Do you own an electric sander? If so buy a roll of 80G paper-usually coloured green- and sand the floor. This will create a lot of dust so make sure you wear a dustmask and keep door/windows open. Once you have cleaned up ALL the dust and/or paint particles mop or wash the floor thoroughly and let it dry. Follow the advice given above about PVA and water mix. Before you start painting the floor proper,cut in all the edges then use either a lambswool roller or 4'' paintbrush and apply the first coat. 6/7 hours later apply a second coat and leave to dry for 24 hours. If you're going to do it then do it properly. It is a good way to spend 2 days!

Regards.

Freeman01

Thanks, just the kind of info I was after. Think I do want to do a proper job so all the above is noted. Will schedule in a LONG weekend to do it. Luckily, when the room is emptied, it is easily sealed off and isn't an inconvenience not having access for a few days. Just means no using the back garden.

olias wrote: »

Just a warning...

Take flloring paint drying times with a pinch of salt. They normally say 'touch dry in 6 hours, can be walked on in 12', or something like that. In my experience, you double or even quadruple the drying times stated, particularly if the area is unheated, and we are getting into cooler weather.

Olias

+1 thanks

keith969

Why not cover it in carpet tiles, or those industrial floor tiles?

If you're going to all the hassle of stripping the old paint off, get it screeded - this will give a much finer surface than plain concrete - and then paint straight onto the screeding, no need to seal it.

LandyAndy

Give the paint an extremely thorough stir before use. I painted my garage floor a few years back. I thought I'd stirred enough and painted part of it. It was royal blue. The next day (when, with a part full tin, it was easier to stir) I painted some more and it was sky blue:rotfl:. A two tone garage floor didn't really worry me but in the house I'd have been rather pee'd off.:)

TUS

Quick question - is an orbital sander suitable for removing paint from the concrete floor? Or am I going to need something else?

The room is small, so I don't mind it taking a while to do ... just want to ensure it's suitable for the job.