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how often to change oil in a diesel

2

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  • Biketrials08
    Biketrials08 Posts: 174
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Forumite
    edited 3 September 2011 at 9:36PM
    mikey72 wrote: »
    B1/B5 is a definate no-no.

    Buy the correct spec of the oil for your car.
    Just don't buy any synthetic because you've read that synthetic is the best.
    The correct one is best, the wrong one will just cost you more to destroy your engine and turbo.

    From ACEA

    "A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s.

    These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manualor handbook if in doubt."

    Their highlight. Some Fords and Volvos, but that's are I know of of the top of my head.
    I use Costco, they quite often had a lot of the A1 oil they can't sell, it's not a good general oil. A3/B3 as a rule.

    They do do the A3 though at the same price, and just to make it clear I'm not syaing use the A1.
  • mikey72
    mikey72 Posts: 14,680 Forumite
    I can't stress it enough, A1 is not a good oil to use generally, even the link to castrol stresses that.

    "*data based on 5W grades vs a 15W-40 in Industry approved test NOTE: 5W-30 oil is only suitable for cars that can use an ACEA A1/B1 fuel efficient product."

    If you did by accident use the one you refered to

    "Magnetec now comes in two flavours:
    A1 Fully synth and
    A3/B3 Semi synth

    I bought the former for about £4 per litre when it was on special offer at Costco, normally about £5-6 per litre I think"

    I'd drain it, and use the latter. (Even if you have the Fords that can use it, unless you're selling after a few years)
  • mikey72 wrote: »
    I can't stress it enough, A1 is not a good oil to use generally, even the link to castrol stresses that.

    "*data based on 5W grades vs a 15W-40 in Industry approved test NOTE: 5W-30 oil is only suitable for cars that can use an ACEA A1/B1 fuel efficient product."

    If you did by accident use the one you refered to

    "Magnetec now comes in two flavours:
    A1 Fully synth and
    A3/B3 Semi synth

    I bought the former for about £4 per litre when it was on special offer at Costco, normally about £5-6 per litre I think"

    I'd drain it, and use the latter. (Even if you have the Fords that can use it, unless you're selling after a few years)


    Ah now I see where you're coming from Mike, I use it not because I like it but because it's what Toyota say to use and the car is still under warranty so hence why I feel obliged.
  • mikey72
    mikey72 Posts: 14,680 Forumite
    edited 3 September 2011 at 10:12PM
    The newer spec oil is a compromise. Part of the design is to improve mpg, and last out the warranty.
    To do that the oil has less drag, and so less shear resistance so there is a great potential for more wear.
    No problem for fleet buyers, that sell them on at a relatively low milage, and can take advantage of the increased oil change intervals, and better mpg.
    Bad for the used car customer though.
    I doubt modern engines will be lasting the 250k we're seeing now.
    Our diesel always gets a 6k oil change, with a semi synthetic 10w 40, and is on 160k with no problems.

    Which Toyota have you got that uses an A1?
  • 2.2 dcat 2ad-fhv
  • Look for the range of Total Quartz synthetic and semi-synthetic oils, these are available with full manufacturer approvals for most manufacturers and are significantly cheaper than other brands. I've used a full synth 5W-30 spec in my 320D now for over 25k miles and i'm happy with the results, and its even reduced the turbo whine a little. Cost was around £58 for 15 litres worth - you can find several sources on Ebay.
    "Dont expect anybody else to support you, maybe you have a trust fund, maybe you have a wealthy spouse, but you never know when each one, might run out" - Mary Schmich
  • mikey72
    mikey72 Posts: 14,680 Forumite
    2.2 dcat 2ad-fhv

    With a DPF, I would have thought they would have spec'ed a C (low saps) rather than a B for that engine.
  • Biketrials08
    Biketrials08 Posts: 174
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Forumite
    edited 3 September 2011 at 11:31PM
    C preffered, B accepted, I was matching the dealer who was using A1, the following from castrol UK:
    Thank you for your e-mail. Apologies for the delay in replying.

    You are correct that the preferred oil for Toyotas such as your Avensis
    fitted with diesel particulate filters (DPF)is a 5W-30 meeting the ACEA
    C2 specification, however Toyota also accepted a 5W-30 engine oil
    meeting the ACEA B1 specification - even though this second type of oil
    is not what is called low ash, the normal requirement for DPF equipped
    vehicles.

    We have made the recommendations you have seen on the website because
    the ACEA C2 specification is equal to the ACEA C3 specification in terms
    of DPF compatibility. Both specifications use the same chemical limits
    which define them as low ash oils. The difference between the two is
    that the C2 specification includes a more severe fuel economy
    requirement than the C3 specification. Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 has
    demonstrated this fuel economy capability and so can claim C2 and C3,
    whereas Castrol Edge 5W-30, which is formulated more towards engine
    protection than fuel economy, has not demonstrated the fuel economy
    benefit and so claims C3 only.

    Because of the particular design of Toyota's DPF system, it is actually
    more tolerant of the type of engine oil used than some other
    manufacturer's vehicles, this is why Toyota accept the use of a
    conventional (i.e. high ash) oil meeting the ACEA B1 specification if a
    5W-30 low ash oil is not readily available. This explains why our
    secondary recommendation on the website is Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 A1
    which meets the ACEA B1 specification.

    I hope this explanation reassures you that our recommendations are based
    on sound interpretation of the ACEA specifications along with Toyota's
    requirements and that anyone following our recommendations will not
    compromise the reliability of their vehicle.

    Please contact us again should you require any further information.

    Regards.


    Automotive Technical Manager
    Lubricants UK & Ireland
    Technical Helpdesk: UK 0845 082 1719
    ROI 1 800 509 353
    Switchboard: +44 (0)1793 512712

    I'll look Mobil ESP next time - also available from costco:). Have a look here though, doesn't show c2 for the 2AD:
    http://www.toyota-tech.eu/MaintenanceSchedules/auris/Final.pdf
  • pendulum
    pendulum Posts: 2,302 Forumite
    Every 6k is ideal, but if you're doing mainly long journeys, then 8 to 9k changes are acceptable. If you're doing 18k a year then a twice-yearly change is every 9k so should be fine there. For what oil to use, I'd have a look at owners club forums, there will be threads about what oils to use for the specific car.
  • mikey72 wrote: »
    The newer spec oil is a compromise. Part of the design is to improve mpg, and last out the warranty.
    To do that the oil has less drag, and so less shear resistance so there is a great potential for more wear.
    No problem for fleet buyers, that sell them on at a relatively low milage, and can take advantage of the increased oil change intervals, and better mpg.
    Bad for the used car customer though.
    I doubt modern engines will be lasting the 250k we're seeing now.
    Our diesel always gets a 6k oil change, with a semi synthetic 10w 40, and is on 160k with no problems.

    Which Toyota have you got that uses an A1?


    We have a Vauxhall Diesel that they specify as 5/30 synthetic (which is different to Ford) an it has 20K max oil change intervals.

    I have read that service intervals are to satisfy fleet requirements as you allude too.

    From what you say if I am willing to lose some economy then swapping to the lower spec Magnatec may be more beneficial if I am not doing that level of mileage and I intend to keep the car for a prolonged period?

    The reason I ask I was looking at the National offer and when I looked on the internet they offered either Edge or Magnatec, with a price differential.
    "If you act like an illiterate man, your learning will never stop... Being uneducated, you have no fear of the future.".....

    "big business is parasitic, like a mosquito, whereas I prefer the lighter touch, like that of a butterfly. "A butterfly can suck honey from the flower without damaging it," "Arunachalam Muruganantham
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