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Painting architraves, door frames and skirting

Leif
Posts: 3,727 Forumite
I have to paint the above with Dulux gloss, and would appreciate advice. The skirting is pre-primed MDF which I will give a coat of primer as it is back to bare MDF where I sanded screw holes. And two architraves were stripped to bare wood. But most architraves, and the door frames, are old paint sanded back a lot to get rid of old drips, and too many layers of paint, often exposing yellow paint. So,
How many coats of paint do people recommend, assuming bare wood/MDF? The tin says one coat primer, one coat undercoat (oil based), one coat topcoat (gloss). Or should I do two coats undercoat for safety?
Also, do people thin the oil based paints? If so, ho much? I'm applying with a brush, except perhaps on the flat part of the skirting where I will use a mini roller.
Lastly, how do people do door frames? I have read that you do one architrave and the frame up to the door stop in one go, starting at one end, and then do the other side in the same way, perhaps the next day to prevent accidentally touching the painted woodwork.
How many coats of paint do people recommend, assuming bare wood/MDF? The tin says one coat primer, one coat undercoat (oil based), one coat topcoat (gloss). Or should I do two coats undercoat for safety?
Also, do people thin the oil based paints? If so, ho much? I'm applying with a brush, except perhaps on the flat part of the skirting where I will use a mini roller.
Lastly, how do people do door frames? I have read that you do one architrave and the frame up to the door stop in one go, starting at one end, and then do the other side in the same way, perhaps the next day to prevent accidentally touching the painted woodwork.
Warning: This forum may contain nuts.
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Anyone an info please?Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0
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How many coats of paint do people recommend, assuming bare wood/MDF? The tin says one coat primer, one coat undercoat (oil based), one coat topcoat (gloss).Also, do people thin the oil based paints?Lastly, how do people do door frames? I have read that you do one architrave and the frame up to the door stop in one go, starting at one end, and then do the other side in the same way, perhaps the next day to prevent accidentally touching the painted woodwork.
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
Oh and I use a fine varnish roller for gloss - much better than the foam things. Just to save answering on your other thread as well.
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
I'm just about to undertake this so this is the advice I've read/been given:
* you can buy a primer and undercoat all in one. Our doors are pine and I managed to find a knot blocker, primer and undercoat all in one. (Not useful to you but for anyone else reading - our tin recommended 2 coats of this before painting.)
* when you rub down your woodwork you are not supposed to take the paint off but to smooth it out and "key" the surface to allow more paint to stick to it. But if it looks flaky at all you need to scrape that layer off.
* Glossing is supposed to be very hard and time consuming so make sure you're not planning on rushing it.
* Buy one-coat gloss so you only need to bother doing it once. Eggshell paint is supposed to be even easier to deal with.
* Buy a brushmate to save washing your paintbrush as it's such a pain in the bum.
*Make sure you leave your doors propped open so they don't close and cause it to stick. It can take 16 hours for gloss to dry.0 -
Oh and I use a fine varnish roller for gloss - much better than the foam things. Just to save answering on your other thread as well.
Cheers
Thanks again. I tried a Harris 4" varnish roller, and it seemed about the same to use, similar finish, perhaps a bit less textured, but MUCH easier to clean. Rollers are a nightmare to clean.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
MaggieBaking wrote: »I'm just about to undertake this so this is the advice I've read/been given:
* you can buy a primer and undercoat all in one. Our doors are pine and I managed to find a knot blocker, primer and undercoat all in one. (Not useful to you but for anyone else reading - our tin recommended 2 coats of this before painting.)
* when you rub down your woodwork you are not supposed to take the paint off but to smooth it out and "key" the surface to allow more paint to stick to it. But if it looks flaky at all you need to scrape that layer off.
* Glossing is supposed to be very hard and time consuming so make sure you're not planning on rushing it.
* Buy one-coat gloss so you only need to bother doing it once. Eggshell paint is supposed to be even easier to deal with.
* Buy a brushmate to save washing your paintbrush as it's such a pain in the bum.
*Make sure you leave your doors propped open so they don't close and cause it to stick. It can take 16 hours for gloss to dry.
I tried eggshell, and it is easier than gloss. But I prefer gloss. Decorators usually recommend avoiding non drip and one coat paints. I guess they reckon something has to give to get the non drip or one coat character.
I took the doors off the hinges, and removed the handles etc. It pays to write the room name on the top of the door, where it is not painted, and to put the hinges, screws etc into a sealable plastic sandwich bag, along with a piece of paper indicating the door. For filling I found the ready mixed filler in a cartridge worked well. Two part filler is harder, but it is a pain to mix and it must be applied within a few minutes. It is hard to sand too. I put a lot of work into sanding down and filling and it seems to be paying off. I have trestles, and I lay one end of a door on the trestle, and one end on an old carpet tile, on the concrete floors. I have two trestles, two doors per trestle, so I can paint 4 doors in one go, and leave overnight. A roller is SO much easier than a brush and so much quicker. No drips, just a slightly textured finish. It takes no time at all to do one door. And then you can rush off and do your other DIY jobs!Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
Thank you so much for the update - I'm glad it's gone to well for you!0
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MaggieBaking wrote: »Thank you so much for the update - I'm glad it's gone to well for you!
Hope yours goes well. Do the prep properly and you'll be okay. I don't know if you considered water based paints, but I wondered about it but the gloss is said not to be too good. What worries me is that there is talk of white oil based gloss paint going yellow in a year or two. My old bosses house woodwork went brown in 6 months, and Dulux paid for a repaint (with Crown paint ... ). Odd as the flat I live in (not my house) has white gloss woodwork, done at least 5 years ago, and it is all nice and white.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
Hope yours goes well. Do the prep properly and you'll be okay. I don't know if you considered water based paints, but I wondered about it but the gloss is said not to be too good. What worries me is that there is talk of white oil based gloss paint going yellow in a year or two. My old bosses house woodwork went brown in 6 months, and Dulux paid for a repaint (with Crown paint ... ). Odd as the flat I live in (not my house) has white gloss woodwork, done at least 5 years ago, and it is all nice and white.
I did consider it but decided that it all got a bit too complicated! Prep has all been done, including priming - just got to pull my finger out and do it!
I don't think it can look much worse than it did. Sanded off one layer of paint on the windowsill underneath which was a flaky paint layer, underneath that was a stubborn yellow one. Don't know what's underneath that but I'm not going to find out :rotfl:
I admit, I've been impressed so far at the quality of finish I've been able to achieve as an amateur, I've just had a good old lecture from my Dad about how awful gloss paint is (perhaps it's his nemesis?!) so I'm a little worried - your post gave me a bit more confidence!
I've bought a brushmate type paintbrush storer today so I have no excuse not to start really! We bought satinwood as I still wanted a bit of a sheen, because the in-laws have just glossed and I thought it might look "too much". Plus I hope it'll be easier too!
I managed to prime alright without the doors off the hinges so I'm going to try it "the lazy way" and keeping them rigid with cardboard door stops. I've been told to give the architraves a go first as they're easier (our door has niggly bits.)0 -
You might want to look at UTube videos of professionals painting. It is remarkable to see how fast they work. I painted the loft door as a test piece, and the first go was awful. I left brush marks everywhere. I think you have to get the paint on fast and apply correct finishing strokes to get a nice finish.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0
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