Bathroom Paint Peeling

halfob1

I've had my house for 3 years. The paint on the bathroom celing and outside facing walls have started peeling and cracking pretty badly.
I think the previous owners gave the bathroom a quick paint before leaving and did not use steam resistant/bathroom specific paint.

I would like to do the work myself.

My thoughts are to sand down the peeling paint and filler in some of the spots.
Then use some PVA glue, after that I will then put on some steam resistant bathroom paint.

Am I going down the right path?

Thanks

Syman

sounds about right, make sure that you remove ALL of the flaking paint first, then sand, then unibond the whole ceiling with a 50:50 mix water and PVA.

i assume that a shower's used regularly, so you might want to upgrade the ventilation too.

BobProperty

halfob1 wrote:

I've had my house for 3 years. The paint on the bathroom celing and outside facing walls have started peeling and cracking pretty badly.
I think the previous owners gave the bathroom a quick paint before leaving and did not use steam resistant/bathroom specific paint.....

There is an argument that such a product is more a marketing ploy than scientific reality. I would just use a good quality paint, but I'd check about using an acrylic over an emulsion. Something in the back of my mind says that I read that on another forum and I'll have to go and look it up.

halfob1 wrote:

.....Then use some PVA glue, after that I will then put on some steam resistant bathroom paint.....

Not sure about the PVA. I think it will come "live" again if/when it gets damp. I would check the paint manufacturer's instructions re preparation.

poppyolivia

Mine has done the exact same and with the flaking and i was going to sand down the flaky bits then just paint with either bathroon paint or a washable one. I'm pretty sure it's because the ventilation is poor so gonna keep the velux window open while in the shower!!!

navig8r

An application of external stabalizing solution applied after filling and sanding will give an even look to the finished job as filled areas absorb more emulsion paint and can look patchy without several coats

Dave

misgrace

There is no need to PVA the ceiling prior to coating up.
Just rub down the flakey bits, do your prep and fill where necessary, then prior to rolling, dab some water down paint on the filled areas, do this twice, then you can roll as normal.
By dabbing on the filler, this will stop your filler flashing (showing thru the coats) and also will stop the filler lifting onto your roller.

I would also thin the first coat down, just about 15% water, then for your further coats, I would still add a tad water, specially if its Dulux.

If you are having problems with flakey paint, then Bathroom/kitchen paint might be better for you, but it has a sheen on it.
I am a professional decorator, and I only use the bathroom paint if there quite a few family members who use the shower a lot.

I have done my own, and clients with ordinary Dulux matt, watered down of course, and I have had no problems.

The problems that come afterwards with most paint jobs is due to the fact that the paint is too thick, even if you have to do an extra coat, still slightly water it down, the end result is worth it.:D

Somerset

misgrace wrote:

I have done my own, and clients with ordinary Dulux matt, watered down of course, and I have had no problems.

The problems that come afterwards with most paint jobs is due to the fact that the paint is too thick, even if you have to do an extra coat, still slightly water it down, the end result is worth it.:D

Do you always need to water down the paint in a bathroom ? I'm soon to do mine and the thought hadn't occured to me - I was just going to use a good quality emulsion. Do I need to water it down ?

misgrace

Somerset, it depends, if you buy a runny poor quality paint then perhaps no, But with dulux you have to, saying that, dulux bathroom and kitchen paint is slightly thinner anyway, but I still slightly water it down.
What can happen, and 8/10 times it does, is that when you paint from the can, you get a dragging effect, specially DIYers, no offence but they are slower than say someone like me who does it for a living.
And when you pour from the can into your tray and start rolling, it will be so thick you will get like an orangepeel effect.

Also, the time you do your cutting in top, bottom and sides on one wall, and by the time you roll the cutting in has pratically dried, and if the paint is too thick, you will see the difference in thickness when you roll into your cutting in.

I used B&Q for the first time the other week, customer bought it as liked the colour, and even though its thinner than dulux, I still slightly watered it down.
Its such a habit with me now, and its not for tightness, as I always do an extra coat anyway, but the finish is so smooth, no draggy bits, no orangepeel look, and definately no flaky bits.

Give it a go, even if you have to do a third coat of your thinned down paint, you will be happy with the finish.

BTW, if your useing 'wicks':eek: you might have to buy a tin of dulux to thicken it lol, its dire.

What make where you thinking of using?

Somerset

misgrace wrote:

What make where you thinking of using?

I think it's dulux. i made sure it was a decent brand ( I made the mistake of buying own brand emulsion before ). Plain white. Btw I don't use a roller but a brush. It's habit - I never grew up !