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Fruit/Veg growing - what to do when?
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babiebeany
Posts: 200 Forumite
I really want to start growing my own this year, but I need help on what to do when and where to grow things. It may be too early to get started yet, but I want to be organised this year in every aspect of saving money/enjoying life to the full and I think that this may be the ideal place to start.
What I really need is a weekly to do type list/idiot's guide to help me along.
I am planning to grow in pots/bags as we have heavy clay soil and a bindweed problem. Also there is a little unused path down one side of my house, which doesn't get a lot of sun - could I grow veg etc in pots here successfully? I was thinking of things like potatoes and carrots.
TIA
What I really need is a weekly to do type list/idiot's guide to help me along.
I am planning to grow in pots/bags as we have heavy clay soil and a bindweed problem. Also there is a little unused path down one side of my house, which doesn't get a lot of sun - could I grow veg etc in pots here successfully? I was thinking of things like potatoes and carrots.
TIA
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Comments
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There are quite a few threads that can give you a start here whuich I'll list below.
I don't suppose it will be long before the monthly "what are you growing?" threads will start again.
Planning a year of veg growing
What are you growing in 2006
February Update: What are you growing in 2006
March Update: What are you growing in 2006?
April Update: What are you growing in 2006?
May Update: What are you growing in 2006? (Tips here for Fruit, Veggies and Flowers!)
June Update: What are you growing in 2006? Tips here for Fruit, Veggies and Flowers!
July Update: What are your growing in 2006? (Tips on fruit/flowers/veggies)
August Update: What are you growing in 2006? Tips for fruit/veggies/flowers
growing herbs
Fruit and Veg to grow in pots, tubs, etc.
What veg can i start growing this time of the year?Hi, I'm a Board Guide on the Old Style and the Consumer Rights boards which means I'm a volunteer to help the boards run smoothly and can move and merge posts there. Board guides are not moderators and don't read every post. If you spot an inappropriate or illegal post then please report it to forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com. It is not part of my role to deal with reportable posts. Any views are mine and are not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.Never ascribe to malice that which is adequately explained by incompetence.DTFAC: Y.T.D = £5.20 Apr £0.50
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Garden Organic also has a monthly list of things to do in the garden. Helpfully, split between ornamental, herb, vegetable & fruit sections.Warning ..... I'm a peri-menopausal axe-wielding maniac0
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babiebeany wrote:I am planning to grow in pots/bags as we have heavy clay soil and a bindweed problem.
Not everything will do well in pots/bags and you will need to consider feeding & watering requirements. Some veg do very well in clay, although generally, heavy clay should be improved. I garden on heavy clay. To be honest, I would consider creating raised beds and improving the soil - have you made a compost heap?
Bindweed is a pain, I agree. Even though I garden organically, I would consider using a chemical to destroy bindweed. Glyphosate, for example, is rendered completely harmless once it hits the soil - but it works by being absorbed by the plant and killing the roots. And I'm suggesting you use it only once, when you first create the beds. However, Garden Organic suggest that if you work the soil, that will go a long way to controlling bindweed as the roots dislike disturbance.Also there is a little unused path down one side of my house, which doesn't get a lot of sun - could I grow veg etc in pots here successfully? I was thinking of things like potatoes and carrots.
TIA
Neither need full sun, although an open position would be better. Is this a narrow rather gloomy path? If so, I would avoid itWarning ..... I'm a peri-menopausal axe-wielding maniac0 -
When first starting in a veg garden that may have been infested with weeds, I recommend starting all your plants off in plugs or pots beforehand so they are a decent size before you plant out. Get around the fact that peas and beans don't like to be disturbed by planting them in toilet rolls filled with soil, then just plant the whole thing in the soil when they are a decent size. I think you can get started on planting early peas (eg Feltham first), tomato and onion seeds about now.
Remove as much of the roots of bindweed as possible. Turn the soil over a couple of weeks before you plan to plant, then pull up weeds the day you plant (by turning over the soil, any seeds that are on the surface will be planted and you can pull the weeds up when the plants are young. Plant the veg in rows so you can quickly see where weeds spring up in between and if possible even place layers of damp newspaper in between your planted rows to keep the weeds at bay (you can cover with compost to weigh down and hide this if necessary).
If you haven't already started, start a compost heap so you can build up a pile to spread over the surface of the clay. Even though clay is heavy, it is usually fertile as it was originally seabed and is made up of millions of sea creatures that have died over millions of years. Cover the clay now with black plastic weighed down with bricks or old carpet, it will keep weeds down slightly and will stop it getting water logged over winter, meaning it will be easier to dig over in spring.
Clay does have drainage issues but by digging over the surface and adding compost or manure which the worms will take down into the soil, it will gradually improve (double digging will help, but tackle it a little at a time as it is so heavy or its a disheartening activity!). I also spread compost over the top and plant the young plants there, then their roots spread into the clay and gradually help break this up too.
If you think the soil is really not good enough, why not build raised beds (place black plastic pierced with a few drainage holes at the base to help prevent the bindweed travelling up through the beds). You will need to import good quality top soil in for this - make sure its good or you might be importing soil as bad as you already have! I have tree roots that prevent my planting straight in the soil, so I built beds last year. My pics are here:
http://groups.msn.com/AngelasPhotographicEmporium/gardenproject2005.msnw?Page=2
My advice for growing in shade is avoid any vegetables that need to be pollinated by bees/insects. For example, runner beans or courgettes. I have found that bees and insects are more likely to go to flowers in the sun so by planting for example, lettuces, carrots, spinach, garlic, etc in the shadier areas, you should have more success. You won't have as much produce as in a sunnier plot, but you will get something. Ref your path, could you put hanging baskets along the side of the house that might get more sun? You can grow tumbler tomatoes, mini-veg such as courgettes, squashes, aubergines or herbs in hanging baskets along with the flowers.
Good luck!Thanks to MSE, I am mortgage free!
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All good advice and welcome to the veggy world.
Bindweed is a right pain but if you keep at it, it will eventually give up and go away. Our veggy plot was infested but now we see very little.
Glysophate is very good but is only effective when the plant is actively growing so you have to let it grow up before you can treat it.
We just kept digging and pulling. Digging over the ground picking out as much root as you can find, even the tiny bits will re grow otherwise. Then each time a new shoot appears, pull it out. It took a couple of years but it really does dissappear in the end.
Another trick is to put a cane in where the bindweed is growing. The weed will then grow up the cane rather than nearby plants which makes it easier to pull out.
Good luck!New year, no debt! Debt free date - 02/01/07 :j :j :j0 -
I, too, would like to grow some vegetables myself this year. I've noted that there is a programme on BBC2 at 8.30pm this Friday called 'Grow Your Own Veg!' about growing organic veg. at home. It looks like they're going to start with potatoes.0
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Do not be tempted to start seeds off too early, especially if sowing straight into the ground. Seeds sown too early are likely to rot in cold, damp soil, and even if things do germinate they suffer checks in growth if the weather is too cold. Patience really is the name of the game, as stuff sown slightly later and grown without a check will not only catch up but actually be much better. Follow the guidance on the back of the seed packets, and remember that although the autumns have been mild lately the springs seem to have late cold snaps, even while nature starts things off a few days earlier.0
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