Woodburner regs

A._Badger

Ben84 wrote: »

The regulations may be frustrating as many houses have more than adequate air flow to keep an open flue appliance working fine, but things may change after the appliance is installed. You might fit secondary glazing or replace the windows and start sealing up the other gaps. Relying on air flow from many undefined small leaks around the building isn't reliable in the long term, which is why a fixed vent that ensures the correct amount of air flow for any open flue appliance will always be available is the best option.

On the good side, with a proper air vent you can seal up all those other air leaks around the house without any potential air supply problems occurring with the wood burner. At least this way the air supply in to the room is largely restricted to one location that you get to choose.

If HETAS installers are deemed competent by their virtually closed shop to issue any sort of certificate at all, then they should be sufficiently competent to assess whether additional ventilation is actually required in an individual installation.

Yes, the situation may change later, but that is equally true with open fires, gas appliances (including cookers) and so on.

I wonder just how much genuinely independent research has gone into all these regs - or those of that other bunch of self-regulators, the electrical installers?

hethmar

If it has up to 5Kw output you will not need an air vent - which are required for outputs above 5Kw. The only recent change is that a carbon monoxide monitor - we fit Fireangel CO-9X - is required in the room.

suki1964

A._Badger wrote: »

If HETAS installers are deemed competent by their virtually closed shop to issue any sort of certificate at all, then they should be sufficiently competent to assess whether additional ventilation is actually required in an individual installation.

Yes, the situation may change later, but that is equally true with open fires, gas appliances (including cookers) and so on.

I wonder just how much genuinely independent research has gone into all these regs - or those of that other bunch of self-regulators, the electrical installers?

Precisely. What is it with the blanket regulation???

Its rare indeed that those that have thermostatically sealed houses would even go to the bother of having a stove installed, the majority of installations being in larger, poorly insulated draughty houses

What is the OP being told he has to have the vent when there is a gale blowing through his house and yet also being told ( not directly) to block it up once its done and signed off??

Talk about elf and safety at its worse

And who on earth decided on the cut off point? 5kw is safe but 5.1 isnt?????

Canucklehead

Hi

The OP installed his own woodburner. Why (as he must consider himself competent )does he need to ask another opinion?


GSR

I see suki doesn't grasp the concept. You just carry on regardless then.

Swipe

TBH, I can't see cavity wall affecting the resale value of a house. Ok, so it might take it up a letter on the EPC graph but do people really base the purchase of house on the EPC? Besides, the new owners can get it done for £100 odd quid when they move in if they are that bothered about it.

grahamc2003

Canucklehead wrote: »

Hi

The OP installed his own woodburner. Why (as he must consider himself competent )does he need to ask another opinion?


GSR

.

I thought seeking other's expert advice was what these boards are for! I managed to get the stove fixed in ok (and imo safely), but it doesn't mean I have the regulations and stove specifications in my head, or even readily available.

In fact, the only reason I had the confidence to install the stove myself was because of the great deal of help I got on here from experienced installers, who seemed very willing to answer a myriad of my questions.

I was always appreciative of any help I got, and the same for this current thread.

So if it's OK, I'll pick your - or anyone else's experienced - brain a little more. Why does the manual say 'less than 5kw output, so no vent needed', yet the plate on the back of the stove (which is what the cwi inspector is relying on) say 'nominal output 4.6 to 5.7kw'? (don't rmember the exact numbers, but they are something like that).

hethmar

I shouldnt worry graham - your manual says less than 5 Kw, its less than 5Kw and you dont need the vent. Get the contractor to ring HETAS if he is in doubt.

QOTD

andygo999 wrote: »

Just a thought......but are you sure you want to get cavity wall insulation installed anyway?
It may well reduce fuel bills, but some people have reported problems of damp and had to pay much more to get it removed.
Have a read of this page http://www.askjeff.co.uk/cavity.html
Perhaps worth investigating internal or external insulation instead...
Andy

Thanks for the information, I heard something on the radio a while back and thought that the CWI might be the cause of our problems (mould and water on the walls) but my OH didn't seem inclined to listen to me. Now that I've been able to show him this article which he seems to agree with me.

Obviously the damp is something that we would both like to rectifiy instead of the short term solution of regularly wiping down the walls and bleaching them. Does anyone have any ideas on where I could find out more information on removal of CWI or even a ball park costs so I can start to budget getting this done next year (if the costs aren't prohibative!)?