Downshifting the motor Car Tax/Fuel Cost Advice please

vikingaero

Agree with everyone on here. You have a car that whilst it isn't the most economical, best for insurance grouping and CO2 banding is 90% there already. Don't get seduced by the headline grabbing false mpg figures of new cars. Most cars rarely achieve 2/3rds of the quoted MPG in real life when you factor in traffic, accidents, rain, etc etc.

buglawton

And small diesels that are not suitable for short journeys and throw out black smoke on occasions when clearing their particulates filters are just downright silly.

MikeyMacbeth

Thanks to all for the replies!

Think I was going bit "grass is always greener" there.. reality check now computed thanks.

Guess I'll just have to get rid entirely as I'm really worried about making the Car Tax/MOT not to mention the house insurance in August (things are getting dicey now financially and we've tightened the belt so much already...:()

Still, we have a paid for roof over our head, at least one job in the house and best of all the 70 odd chilli plants (don't ask) are starting to fruit!

Kilty_2

If you need to get rid entirely, perhaps the £x,000 you get from it would allow you to run an old shed unless you need that money elsewhere (ie no outgoings, just using the money you get from the sale) Just a thought.

MikeyMacbeth

Kilty wrote: »

If you need to get rid entirely, perhaps the £x,000 you get from it would allow you to run an old shed unless you need that money elsewhere (ie no outgoings, just using the money you get from the sale) Just a thought.

Yeah, may be an option, but still needs taxing/ MOT'ing / insuring etc, plus I'd be paranoid about stuff going pear-shaped on it all the time - least I've got a couple of months to think this all through.

Who knows? I might put the £x,000 on a horse instead:D Way our luck's been running lately we're due some good luck! (don't panic, I'm not serious)

Kilty_2

If it helps (probably doesn't) I've recently bought a £750 car with 12 months MOT and 6 months tax. Total essential expense in nearly 2000 miles has been £48 for a battery.

getmore4less

I think you need to sit back and analyse the situation.

miles(30k over 4.5 years is around 7k per year)
types of trips(how many are essential)
Access to another vehicle.


Then look at the fixed costs and the variable.

Fixed say around £600(tax, insurance, MOT,service)

You should already be in the 45-50mpg range, so on 7k a year thats around 700lt at £1.35 around £1k. how much will you save if you find a car with better MPG, cut out trips to reduce milage and the cost per mile goes up with the fixed overheads.

If you can swap of the £1600py you might save £300ish, if you can 1/2 you milage still close to £1kpy


For current value look on autotrader those around yours aage milage are asking more than £3.6k more like the £4-£5k range.
eg http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201125392689392/

Recently I prices up the bus to a nearby town, £5 return which seems a lot but it at £1.39ltr and £50mpg fuel alone for the 36mile round trip at 12.6ppm or over £4.50(then I have to park).
Down side is it take 20min longer and I can have a beer so no savings.


If you can get away without the car that will be the big saving as long as you can find alternative ways to travel.

MikeyMacbeth

getmore4less wrote: »

I think you need to sit back and analyse the situation.

miles(30k over 4.5 years is around 7k per year)
types of trips(how many are essential)
Access to another vehicle.


Then look at the fixed costs and the variable.

Fixed say around £600(tax, insurance, MOT,service)

You should already be in the 45-50mpg range, so on 7k a year thats around 700lt at £1.35 around £1k. how much will you save if you find a car with better MPG, cut out trips to reduce milage and the cost per mile goes up with the fixed overheads.

If you can swap of the £1600py you might save £300ish, if you can 1/2 you milage still close to £1kpy


For current value look on autotrader those around yours aage milage are asking more than £3.6k more like the £4-£5k range.
eg http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201125392689392/

Recently I prices up the bus to a nearby town, £5 return which seems a lot but it at £1.39ltr and £50mpg fuel alone for the 36mile round trip at 12.6ppm or over £4.50(then I have to park).
Down side is it take 20min longer and I can have a beer so no savings.


If you can get away without the car that will be the big saving as long as you can find alternative ways to travel.

That's a great analysis! I'm hoping to do a spreadsheet (anyone on here who doesn't have spreadsheet madness?:)) later today to analyse fuel costs (I already log all my fuel purchase along with mileage).

Hopefully once I've done so I'll have a cost/mile analysis and be better placed to see whether getting the bus to work is more economical.

Fixed costs for me are as follows:-

• Insurance (last time in April 2011) : £376 (will assume £410 for next year)
• Car Tax band G : £155
• Servicing & MOT (2010) : £153 (wish I had a mate good with cars who'd do me a mini service before I take it and then I could do a council MOT)
• Sundries (wiper blades/bulbs) in 2010-2011 : ~£40

So total fixed annual costs around the £760 mark gives (at ~7000m/yr) about 11p/m before fuel costs.

What I'd really like to do is cut out the commute to work during the week. I'm looking for a more local job already so I can walk/cycle in to work. I would cycle it already if it wasn't for the fact that half the journey would be along one of the most dangerous roads in Leeds - I hate driving it never mind on a bike! (Roundhay road in case anyone's wondering).

Weekly day-rider for me (2 buses) is between £12 & £18.50 (depending on what answer from Leeds frist as to whether I lie within the green boundary)

I'm going to go for broke on mileage reduction as you suggest as I really don't wabt to have to give up the car!

Beans on toast diet for the next couple of months it is!:D

Cheers again for all the help everyone!

MikeyMacbeth

bigjl wrote: »

Why not convert it to LPG?

I don't think you will find a car much cheaper to run than the one you have, if you sell it then buy somethign else then there are two profit margins to finance if you go to a dealer, which means you will end up with a worse car.


Unless your RoadTax is £460 and it does 20mpg I can't see the point changing from what you already have in all honesty.

Any idea how much it costs to convert and what cost/mile reduction might be? I'm in Leeds so I'm assuming LPG would be fairly easily available?

I'll do a bit of research myself of course but a rough figure would be a starting point.

bigjl

There is a compnay called Tinley Tech that sells you the kits for self fitment, you then go back to have it inspected and certified.
That would be the cheapest route, maybe £6/700 all in.

I found another place that will do three levels of system and they quoted me £799 for a basic kit, no flashlube up to £1199 for the deluxe package which included Flashlube and a free courtesy car to drive whilst yours is converted.

I have a mate that converted his Subaru Legacy and got 100k out of it before the valves gave trouble, but he now has FlashLube fitted, some cars need it some don't, for the same reasons some cars need a lead substitute to run on unleaded petrol.

My mate lives in Sunderland and drives long distances to get to work, he no works for Yorkshire Ambulance Service but due to living in Sunderland he has to commute at least 50 miles to work and 50 miles home every day, sometimes up to 100 miles each way.

He reckons it is cheaper than running a diesel car, the only way he thinks he could get to work cheaper would be used Red Diesel, so I think it will work out fine for you financially.

Don't forget that if it costs say £1000 to convert it will increse the saleability of your current car a little and if you downsized you would probably lose this much anyway, due to having to trade your car in and lose money of your tradein and pay the dealers profit on the car you buy.

I think it is the most cost effective route, you will start to save money as soon as you convert, as your weekly fuel bill will drop, as you car will be registered as dual fuel I suppose there may be a saving there but I don't know, you would have to ask DVLA.

But as you have a newish car your fuel savings would continue till you sold the car, but more importantly the day to day running costs will be reduced, which is I think what you are trying to achieve.

I will try and find the contact details of the company that gave me those quotes, they have a branch in Hertfordshire and one further up north.

But my mate got his coverted by a bloke in Sunderland that did a good job.

But before you convert make sure your car doesn't need FlashLube to protect the valves.

The kits by BRC also have a good reputation.