Shower Pump Problems

nicenswift

keystone wrote: »

If it has a bell shaped device like the one on the LHS of the pic below then its neg head. If it hasn't like the one on the right then its +ve head.



Damn!! Cropped the image to make it smaller and just realised I've cropped out the TP example!!

Can you post up a pic of the pipework around the pump. That might just make it a bit easier to identify if you do have any form of bleeding arrangement fitted.

Cheers

Many thanks here is a couple of pics





Can you tell from these pics if I can release the air in the pipes as instructed

Cheers

PS Sorry the pics are huge

keystone

nicenswift wrote: »

Sorry guys just remmembered, we have a leak frmo the stop c*** downstairs under the kitchen sink.

Didn't take much notice of this post at first but it seems to me that he's left you with two faults now. Granted that the packing is probably dry as the Namib Desert from disuse but if he turned the water off and drained the system then he must have turned it off here and thus he should have checked the stop c o c k (thats how you fool the forum censor BTW ) wasn't leaking when he turned the water back on again. So I'd say definitely get him back.

I dont think this will be causing the shower issue but I thought I would mention anyways.

You are correct - it isn't.

Cheers

gas4you

From your installation instructions

The preferred pump location is at floor level next to the hot water cylinder or a level that
is below the secondary tapping that feeds the pump. This will ensure the pump has access
to an air free water supply which is important for trouble free operation (Fig. 5 for Twins
and Fig. 6 for Singles).

keystone

nicenswift wrote: »

Many thanks here is a couple of pics

Thanks

Can you tell from these pics if I can release the air in the pipes as instructed

Oh my what a bodge job! :eek: Hope that wasn't done by a professional!! The flexis should not be kinked over that way they should be nearly vertical (IIRC up to 30 degress is allowable), none of the pipework is supported, the isolators fitted do not conform with Techflow instructions (they should be gate or full bore lever valves and fitted as close as poss to the pump), isolating valves should be fitted to both inputs and outputs. Air can certainly accumulate in that pipework as installed and there is no obvious method of releasing it.

The most likely source of air is the vent pipe from the cylinder particularly if the hot supply has just been horizontally tee'd off the vertical vent and especially if there is no antigravity loop. Is that how it is piped?

Cheers

keystone

gas4you wrote: »

From your installation instructions

The preferred pump location is at floor level next to the hot water cylinder or a level that
is below the secondary tapping that feeds the pump. This will ensure the pump has access
to an air free water supply which is important for trouble free operation (Fig. 5 for Twins
and Fig. 6 for Singles).

Whilst that is true that isn't quite the whole story. The instructions will also say how to do the installation in the roofspace as well. There is nothing wrong with doing it that way as long as it is piped correctly. It certainly isn't at the pump in this case and suspect it isn't at the cylinder either. But thats not the point. The plumber who last touched it hasn't left the system workable in two locations.

Cheers

nicenswift

Many thanks for the advice.

So where does this leave me, will the plumber be able to get the air out of the pipes, if so how.

I wish I understood more about plumbing as I feel thick and fustrated :embarasse

nicenswift

Just found this on a website that claims it will clear the airlock in the hot pipe.

We do happen to have a mixer tap in the kitchen and i do believe that the kitchen cold comes straight from the mains.

Is it worth a try and if so how long do I let it run with my hand over it for.

Procedure:

1. Squeeze the single mixer tap outlet so that the palm of your hand covers it firmly
2. Turn on the hot, then the cold, (this order is important to prevent confined mains pressure from forcing your hand away from the tap outlet). The cold supply, now unable to exit from the hand blocked tap outlet, will instead flow across to the hot water pipe causing a backflow in the hot water system, clearing the airlock

Many thanks

gas4you

That will depend on where the mixer tap mixes the hot and cold. The term 'mixer tap' is often used where it isn't really a mixer tap.

Some do it in the body, but others have two waterways so the water doesn't mix until it reached the sink.

nicenswift

Not sure if it helps but I think this is how my hot water works



Does it mean it has a vent pipe and can not be an airlock in the hot.

What about the cold ?

Cheers

keystone

nicenswift wrote: »

Just found this on a website that claims it will clear the airlock in the hot pipe.

We do happen to have a mixer tap in the kitchen and i do believe that the kitchen cold comes straight from the mains.

Is it worth a try and if so how long do I let it run with my hand over it for.

No 'cos it won't work. What you have described is how to get rid of an airlock in your hot tap supply. The shower will be (should be) piped separately from the taps so doing this to the taps will have zero effect on your shower..

Have you called the plumber back yet?

Cheers