My mock Tudor house needs help please

happyhero

Hi, Can you help, I have a mock Tudor house (white rendered panels in between black planks of wood) and the paint on the black timbers are flaking in many places, some bits have come away from the wall and in just a few places the wood is so rotten that I could probably push my finger through which I have resisted in doing. This makes my house sound terrible whereas in fact when you stand back and look at it, it just looks like it needs a paint job.

I recently put some christmas lights up, and when I got up close to the high bits, I saw how bad some of it was. The top funny enough seems quite ok and there's not much timber at all at ground level, so its the middle that is worst. Also I think they are called the barge boards, well the tips are pretty soft.

The question now is what to do, there are some straight bits but there are some fancy bit which would be harder to match.

What wood do I use? And what wood DID they use? I would have guessed the best thing would be hardwood but that would be expensive so what do people use these days, do they normally use softwood?

If you use softwood, would it have to be treated, and if so could it be painted, as it needs to be black? What would it be treated with?

Is there anything I could use where the wood is totally rotten to solidify it again?

I know it sounds a bit odd but could you get UPVC the right size (I knew a guy once said they could make anything out of UPVC) and paint it black?

But how would it weather, would it stay painted a long time or flake easily?

Or could you buy UPVC in black?

Or is there something else I could do?

Any help appreciated.

jennifernil

You should use pressure treated softwood timber . To "paint it" I would suggest a black wood treatment or "breatheable" product such as Butinox, Sadolin, Sikkens etc, not ordinary paint. The upper parts will have been slightly sheltered by the roof overhang, the lower bits more exposed.
Ronseal do a wood hardening product but it is really only suitable for small areas.

Debt_Free_Chick

happyhero wrote:

Also I think they are called the barge boards, well the tips are pretty soft.

Easily replaced by a general builder.

The question now is what to do, there are some straight bits but there are some fancy bit which would be harder to match.

Again, a decent builder should be able to do this - or you may need a carpenter.

What wood do I use? And what wood DID they use? I would have guessed the best thing would be hardwood but that would be expensive so what do people use these days, do they normally use softwood?

As the previous poster suggests - pressure treated softwood. A local timber supplier or builders' merchant will be your best bet. I doubt very much that hardwood would have been used originally. Hardwood is less likely to rot as you've described. Softwood will keep, but it needs to be maintained - either painted, varnished or treated in some other way.

If you use softwood, would it have to be treated, and if so could it be painted, as it needs to be black? What would it be treated with?

Buy it pressure treated which gives some protection but then paint it. In addition to the previous suggestion, have a look at the Dulux Weathershield range.

Is there anything I could use where the wood is totally rotten to solidify it again?

Doubtful. The best you could do is to cut out the rotton parts and replace with new. But you then have issues regarding the joins - you may as well replace the whole section.

I know it sounds a bit odd but could you get UPVC the right size (I knew a guy once said they could make anything out of UPVC) and paint it black?

But how would it weather, would it stay painted a long time or flake easily?

Or could you buy UPVC in black?

You could possibly use UPVC - sorry, not a fan and no experience of buying/use it. You would need a special paint specifically for UPVC.

Are intending to DIY or get a builder in?

happyhero

Cheers for the answers, I am going to attempt it as I will have some spare time for it and I am generally pretty good with DIY, its just that never having done this before means I don't have the usual confidence. I also have some scaffolding which helps.

jennifernil wrote:

To "paint it" I would suggest a black wood treatment or "breatheable" product such as Butinox, Sadolin, Sikkens etc, not ordinary paint.
quote]

Will this give me a totally black finish to match any black existing timbers that don't need replacing?

Debt_Free_Chick

happyhero wrote:

Cheers for the answers, I am going to attempt it as I will have some spare time for it and I am generally pretty good with DIY, its just that never having done this before means I don't have the usual confidence. I also have some scaffolding which helps.

jennifernil wrote:

To "paint it" I would suggest a black wood treatment or "breatheable" product such as Butinox, Sadolin, Sikkens etc, not ordinary paint.

Will this give me a totally black finish to match any black existing timbers that don't need replacing?

To be honest, I'd be inclined to repaint the existing too as routine maintenance Otherwise, there's a danger that they will eventually deteriorate and rot too.

Re the fancy edges you mentioned previously, a jigsaw should do it.

Moneymaker

Logic suggests to me that it's best to paint the tanalised wood on ALL sides before fitting but is that correct? I'm sure a professional wouldn't bother but would it last longer or should it be open to "breathe"?

(DEF: TANALISED E pressure treated timber has been impregnated with Tanalith E, a waterborne product based on copper triazole technology.)

plumb1_2

You can buy UPVC in black, expensive thou.

happyhero

plumb1 wrote:

You can buy UPVC in black, expensive thou.

cheers plumb1 but where from and do you think it could be ok for the job I want?

chrisw

I would imagine UPVC looks awful as it's too uniform.

plumb1_2

Just goole

Black Ash woodgrain

heres 1 for starters http://www.casupply.co.uk/acatalog/woodgrain_fascia_soffits.html

jennifernil

I would suggest you paint the new bits all round after cutting to size but before fixing in place, paying special attention to the end grain. Maybe putting a little silicone or similar in any butt joints. New timber will need 2 or 3 coats of whatever black finish you choose.
For the shaped pieces you will need to use the old ones as a cutting guide or make cardboard templates, as they will need to fit snugly.
How old is the house? If it is not that old I would be wondering why the timber had not lasted well.
For the bits that are still ok I would try to remove the old black paint back to bare wood and refinish them with the new treatment. Ordinary paint can cover a multitude of sins. If the existing paint seems sound then you have plenty time to tackle it gradually.
For the barge boards, if only the tips are gone, there is no need to replace the whole board. Cut them back to a nailing point and fit a short piece, but not too short. Remember to treat the cut ends and paint the new piece before you fix it too. Be careful not to split the boards when nailing, screwing them into place may be safer.