Plumber worries.

BaldPlumber

You paid him £100 for the day?

Aquatronixjenny

Oh, and if he is going to box that sani slim in make sure it is completely accessible and that you don't have to deconstruct the whole flippin bathroom to get it out. They don't last forever and if someone puts something down there that they shouldn't then the whole box will have to come out to get to the pump to clear it.

typeractive

aboard_epsilon wrote: »

The only thing i would do on top of that job once its done, is add glass fibre ...tape or wedge it into positions that are near cables ..were heat can rise and heat up cables ..

and wedge it between and under pipes that may expand and rub against each other or cross over floor joists ..so making your system quieter when the sudden temperature change of different pipe runs become active ....so helping to get rid of bang bang bangs ..and tick tick ticks.

Also i don't know if this is the plumbers bible...just ideas that spring into my head ..the condensing boiler relies on returning water temperature to be considerably lower than that going out ......having a flow and return pipe running parallel with one another ..may cause return pipe to pick up heat off the flow pipe making it less efficient ...so try and insulate whatever you can on the return pipes..where they run parallel.

One £5 roll over loft insulation ..and a pile of 15mm insulting sleeves probably costing another £10 should help Rolls Royce it.

don't forget ..where ever you put new floor boards down ..screw them ..dont nail them ....then if they have to come up at a later date ..you ain't destroying them again .

use quality "SPAX" SCREWS ..THE HEADS ARE VERY HARD .you will have a job chewing them up, when removed years later.

all the best.markj

Thanks Markj! Some handy tips there!. I'll have to look into the materials. Is glass fibre literally just the loft insulation roll? If so I have some I can use. I'll buy some more pipe insulation rolls too. As it happens the en suite is at the furthest point from the boiler so by the time it returns it will hopefully be more cooler (of course pending on the other pipe route). Should I insulate both the hot and cold returns? It keeps them both more separate I guess.

I am screwing down the boards. I actually have some SPAX screws too - though they're a bit too long for the job, so usiong some smaller ones - carefully thinking about where the pipes are.

You paid him £100 for the day?

Yeah for the day - or,
10hours work, or,
to add a flexy onto a tap, cut 2 holes in the floor, extend a hot and cold shower feed approx 1.5m (which I can't plasterboard onto without modifying how far a pipe pretrudes).

Guess it depends how you look at it - P155 poor for a normal day's wage I guess...furkinn lucky for the little achieved. Not to mention making use of my tools, & the materials were all provided. Oh and not tidying up / putting back the floorboards properly.

Oh, and if he is going to box that sani slim in make sure it is completely accessible and that you don't have to deconstruct the whole flippin bathroom to get it out. They don't last forever and if someone puts something down there that they shouldn't then the whole box will have to come out to get to the pump to clear it.

He ain't boxin !!!!!!. I will though. And yeah, we thought about that, but thanks very much. Only aiming on water based waste going down there.

aboard_epsilon

Yes ..loft insulation roll .

cant do any harm to insulate what ever you can ..i was just thinking of the extra work it may cause you.

or

the pipes act as radiators too , so when the flow pipe is loosing heat ..its loosing it into the house ...making the job the boiler has to do smaller "maybe"..more time between on off cycles ..and maybe a longer lasting boiler and more economic running.

its' just that you don't want it passing on it heat to the return pipe..it wont be much heat passing ..but every little bit helps...so insulate one or the other or both.

these are just ideas i have in my head ..that hopefully may work.

when my system is in .I'm going to monitor the return pipe temperature ..and do everything i can ..to make the system more economic ...i have a lot of studies planned to try and work out what is best.

The above info is sort of thoughts going on in my head .....i don't quite know how the modulating aspect of these boilers comes in ...weather the on/off cycles and modulating interact or fight with each other .

the modulation aspect turns down the flame instead of turning off the flame...i don't know all...but hope to understand .

all the best.markj

typeractive

cheers aboard_epsilon

I see your logic and thought. Might be a minimal change but as you say - every little helps

ormus