HELP! Diagnosis help with water leak on Peugot 106xnd 'p' plate...VERY STRANGE..

johnnyroper

optimus_primera wrote: »

Does it make any difference if the heater control is on or off?
ie If it does not leak when the heater is off,then you know its coming from the heater matrix plumbing.

would not make a difference as coolant still circulates through matrix when on/off set to hot/cold as there is just a flap that directs air away from matrix,there is no valve to stop coolant.

the 1.5 tud is notorious for head gasket leaks usually it is oil leak around gallery at camshaft end.Done loads of em when i worked for PUG,the advice from factory was to polish head and block with fine wet and dry and use a smear of hylomar to try and stop from re occuring.


did the water leak out from the rear or front of engine

DEBTMONKEY1A

Hey guys/gals...an update. It's a core plug within the thermostat housing thats leaking....hose replaced & getting it fixed saturday. Without the pressure test would never have known where it was!

mikey72

Keep a close eye on it.
If it suddenly lets go, you won't know until it loses all the water and stops. The red light probably won't come on, as it won't be in water.

DEBTMONKEY1A

Will do Mikey....seems to only release water when engine STOPPED for some reason-& then around 1 1/2 pints. Will keep a close eye on it. 1/2 the problem was probably the leaking hose as well. Also...just going off at a tangent but heating slowly diminished over last 2 weeks-from v.good to poor! Mechanic noticed one of the pipes from the expansion tank was rock hard-full of rust-he cleaned this out for me & heating is now better. He says deffo run without any anti-freeze before I got it-hence big rust build up...so definately worth a good flush out for an hour or so! Said it was not the (nearly knackered) radiator that was causing the clogging/crap heater performance as it was made from aluminium but definate rust in the engine....

vyseyboy

DEBTMONKEY1A wrote: »

Will do Mikey....seems to only release water when engine STOPPED for some reason-& then around 1 1/2 pints. Will keep a close eye on it. 1/2 the problem was probably the leaking hose as well. Also...just going off at a tangent but heating slowly diminished over last 2 weeks-from v.good to poor! Mechanic noticed one of the pipes from the expansion tank was rock hard-full of rust-he cleaned this out for me & heating is now better. He says deffo run without any anti-freeze before I got it-hence big rust build up...so definately worth a good flush out for an hour or so! Said it was not the (nearly knackered) radiator that was causing the clogging/crap heater performance as it was made from aluminium but definate rust in the engine....

Being filled with only water (no antifreeze) will likely be the reason for the core plug fault / leak... frozen coolant overnight means expansion, and expansion usually blows out a core plug or if unlucky cracks the block. The recent really cold weather might have been the root cause.

If you really have only got the core plug to worry about, you will have been lucky. I'd say there is scope for overheating damage (low coolant and/or coolant channels blocked with rust) - and if your 106 is anything like mine was, there is no temperature gaugue to keep an eye on, just a "too hot" light!

DEBTMONKEY1A

Hi! Last 3 years it's been filled with proper antifreeze mixutre....but yes-you're right......the cold weather in Nov/Dec can't have helped!

mikey72

The radiator is about the only thing I had to change on ours so far. Nissens are a decent make for them, and not too dear I'm pleased to say. If it is losing that much, don't be tempted to just top up with water, it's still cold enough to freeze overnight without antifreeze.

DEBTMONKEY1A

Mikey...a mate is coming up in late February-we're going to change the radiator then. Any idea of a reasonable cost for either a recon. radiator or a new one?

mikey72

DEBTMONKEY1A wrote: »

Mikey...a mate is coming up in late February-we're going to change the radiator then. Any idea of a reasonable cost for either a recon. radiator or a new one?

I'd only buy a new Nissens, they're about £50 to £65 + delivery from

http://www.appliedradiators.co.uk/modules/shop/products.asp?records=AUTOMOTIVE&test=yes&g=1&area=a&test=yes&catid=27&test=yes&rangeid=229&transmission=both&aircon=both&year=9999&go.x=32&go.y=15

who I got ours from.

http://www.adrad.co.uk/car-radiator/catalogue.php?manu=PEUGEOT&model=106

I've used as well
Make sure it's Nissens, sometimes they're not (quick phonecall) and depending whether it's the S1 or S2, or the crossover model that's a S1 body with an S2 radiator (like ours)
Bottom pins are different, and the top mounts are different. (If I remember, early ones top ones are clips, later ones are bolts)

DEBTMONKEY1A

Thanks Mikey.....he's coming up late February. Plenty of time to order it....