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Chimneys, old houses, damp courses...

2

Comments

  • Having had several properties with damp&/or condensation prob I think debtfreechick has hit the nail on the head.

    Sorry, but there's a danger that I might get on my soapbox now - I'll try not to ;)

    I've owned several "period" properties. A very grand title, but essentially, anything more than 100 years old. If you look around, it's amazing that ssssooooooo many are not only still standing proud, but in immaculate condition!!

    It's worth bearing in mind that damp is not a modern problem - but condensation is. Damp is something that, historically, builders knew how to cope with. So ..... stone buildings were "decorated" with a limewash or distemper (internally) as these allowed the stone to breathe. And breathing means that any damp passes through the stonework. The same is true for stone floors - they are not meant to be "sealed" on the surface as this simply traps any rising damp and will eventually result in crumbling stonework underfoot :eek:

    Condensation can be dealt with in the same way, if the stonework is allowed to continue to breathe in the way that the original builder intended. Slapping on silk emulsion, PVA bonding, modern DPCs etc .... simply traps any moisture, whether it's passing from the outside in or vice versa. Same goes for cavity wall insulation.

    If you buy a period property, there is a trade-off if you want a fully insulated, centrally heated, chemically injected DPC and double glazed house. Essentially, you will create condensation and some of could possibly be controlled. But such modern insulating materials do not sit well with the traditional fabric of the building and I fear you will create more problems than you solve.

    For a period property I would suggest loft insulation, draught proofing and (possibly) secondary/double glazing. If that doesn't suit your lifestyle and/or purse, then you really should not look at a period property. They need sympathetic understanding of the fabric/construction of the building.

    What makes me cross is the so-called "free quote" brigade who will happily install a modern solution into a period property without any knowledge of the consequences :mad:

    Anyway, I do hope that PurpleDuck doesn't have a problem, but that he/she takes some expert advice.
    Warning ..... I'm a peri-menopausal axe-wielding maniac ;)
  • Just a thought PurpleDuck, but what sort of windows do you have? Double glazing can effectively 'seal' an old stone house and isn't great as they certainly need to 'breathe'.
    I've got 3 foot thick stone walls too (lime rendered), but no damp course, original wood sash windows and a ruddy great gap under my front door which I 'fix' with a fluffy sausage draught excluder!
    I keep the heating on low in rooms I don't use very often and I've got no damp problems at all. Bear with it, you've got a house with personality!
    "I'm ready for my close-up Mr. DeMille...."
  • Just a thought PurpleDuck, but what sort of windows do you have? Double glazing can effectively 'seal' an old stone house and isn't great as they certainly need to 'breathe'.
    I've got 3 foot thick stone walls too (lime rendered), but no damp course, original wood sash windows and a ruddy great gap under my front door which I 'fix' with a fluffy sausage draught excluder!
    I keep the heating on low in rooms I don't use very often and I've got no damp problems at all. Bear with it, you've got a house with personality!

    I have large drafty single glazed wooden windows. And I mass produced sausages on an industrial scale last year :D We need to get the lime render in the rooms that are still plastered (rest are exposed stone) redone. I'm dreading that :eek: My house has the character of a spendthrift :rolleyes:
  • Removing any concrete or earth higher than the dpc.
    French drains.
    Opening windows as much as possible.
    A dehumidifier.
    Trickle vents on windows.

    There is nothing near our dpc so I know its not been breached and we have a huge french drain round the back of the house (I'd forgotten about that!)
    We've got 2 dehumidifiers which are on when the windows aren't open and the windows are old wooden frames ones which are drafty as hell any way :rotfl:

    Old houses I guess :confused:

    Thanks
  • Sorry, but there's a danger that I might get on my soapbox now - I'll try not to ;)

    I've owned several "period" properties. A very grand title, but essentially, anything more than 100 years old. If you look around, it's amazing that ssssooooooo many are not only still standing proud, but in immaculate condition!!

    It's worth bearing in mind that damp is not a modern problem - but condensation is. Damp is something that, historically, builders knew how to cope with. So ..... stone buildings were "decorated" with a limewash or distemper (internally) as these allowed the stone to breathe. And breathing means that any damp passes through the stonework. The same is true for stone floors - they are not meant to be "sealed" on the surface as this simply traps any rising damp and will eventually result in crumbling stonework underfoot :eek:

    Condensation can be dealt with in the same way, if the stonework is allowed to continue to breathe in the way that the original builder intended. Slapping on silk emulsion, PVA bonding, modern DPCs etc .... simply traps any moisture, whether it's passing from the outside in or vice versa. Same goes for cavity wall insulation.

    If you buy a period property, there is a trade-off if you want a fully insulated, centrally heated, chemically injected DPC and double glazed house. Essentially, you will create condensation and some of could possibly be controlled. But such modern insulating materials do not sit well with the traditional fabric of the building and I fear you will create more problems than you solve.

    For a period property I would suggest loft insulation, draught proofing and (possibly) secondary/double glazing. If that doesn't suit your lifestyle and/or purse, then you really should not look at a period property. They need sympathetic understanding of the fabric/construction of the building.

    What makes me cross is the so-called "free quote" brigade who will happily install a modern solution into a period property without any knowledge of the consequences :mad:

    Anyway, I do hope that PurpleDuck doesn't have a problem, but that he/she takes some expert advice.

    Oh I will but we don't all want our houses to look like modern clones you know ;) I'd just like to be warm (cracked that at last) and dry :D
    So I will put up with my iffy lime rendered walls, my drafty single wooden framed windows and my lovely exposed stone. But the condensation and the damp are just a bit too much to live with right now. The DPC and the poured concrete floors I can't do a lot about as the people before me decided on those :confused:
  • Mushy61
    Mushy61 Posts: 152 Forumite
    I've been in my house now for 19 years and until 2003 had recurring damp problems even after an injected damp course.

    It was then a builder suggested I have my walls 'tanked'. This involves removing the plaster to the brickwork and applying 'tanking plaster' ( I believe it's a method used in pub cellars), since when I've not had a trace of damp in the house.

    I would highly recommend this method as opposed to the normal injection course which I found to be a complete waste of money.
  • PurpleDuck wrote:
    Oh I will but we don't all want our houses to look like modern clones you know ;)

    I'm 100% with you on that one!

    But if you're referring to double-glazing, it's possible to get wooden framed DG windows/doors with a completely traditional appearance. Jeldwen for example, which can order via Build Center and Travis Perkins.

    For "top of the range", you could also get a local joiner to custom make them, but it really depends on your budget.

    HTH
    Warning ..... I'm a peri-menopausal axe-wielding maniac ;)
  • benood
    benood Posts: 1,398 Forumite
    Debt free chick is exactly right on the importance of getting any surveys done by genuinely independent 3rd parties - it was only once we'd had that that we started to make progress. All the others were purely interested in selling product.
  • I'm 100% with you on that one!

    But if you're referring to double-glazing, it's possible to get wooden framed DG windows/doors with a completely traditional appearance. Jeldwen for example, which can order via Build Center and Travis Perkins.

    For "top of the range", you could also get a local joiner to custom make them, but it really depends on your budget.

    HTH

    On our budget not likely for the next 20 years! Nice though they are. I wouldn't be on MSE if I had any money :rotfl:
  • Mushy61 wrote:
    I've been in my house now for 19 years and until 2003 had recurring damp problems even after an injected damp course.

    It was then a builder suggested I have my walls 'tanked'. This involves removing the plaster to the brickwork and applying 'tanking plaster' ( I believe it's a method used in pub cellars), since when I've not had a trace of damp in the house.

    I would highly recommend this method as opposed to the normal injection course which I found to be a complete waste of money.

    It wouldn't work in our house, well not downstairs as we'd have to cover our lovely exposed stone up. Funily enough the cellar is the one place that isn't damp - but that is under the extension and modern built :rolleyes:
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