bio-diesel for a P plate Peugot 106xnd.

Red_Cat

The two main failure modes are part wear due to lcak of lubricity (discussed above) but also a longer term failure can be due to seals perishing. They can be chemically damaged by veg oil or high % bio fuels (i.e. > 10%).
Also diesel fuel at the pumps pretty well much has a low bio content already.

worried_jim

If you have the Bosch pump then hit costco and get some veg and stick stright in when it gets a little warmer. If it is Lucas then dont use veg. Well made bio should be safe. Good luck!

mikey72

DEBTMONKEY1A wrote: »

Thanks all! It's £1-05 a litre!!! It has all the 'e' accreditations & something to stop it freezing in winter. Big savings as i do £55 miles a day! So again at the risk of sounding thick (!) if a boshe pump was fitted you could run it on straight veg oil (its super cheap from costco) & either put in an 'in-line heater' (not a clue what that is but seen it on forums etc-fairly cheap I think???) for the winter or mix it say 70/30 with either bio-diesel or normal diesel to stop it clogging in the winter??

Apparently its the fuel pump 'seals' that can go-but looking on various forums anything post 1992 has the correct seals?

Mikey....just to update jo re: heater matrix (!)-off to see my mechanically minded pal in Norfolk next w/end-he's doing a reverse flush JUST on the matrix & replacing stat (he gets em trade price-£6 & worth fitting as stat housing leaking a bit). If that doesn't fix it I'll buy him a shed load of ale & ask him to do the 5 hour or so task of putting a new matrix in (!)

Thanks all for your help!

There were the odd few fitted with Bosch pumps, but they're very rare. It is possible to fit a 1.9 Bosch fuel pump, but it's not easy.
I'd stick to bio diesel personally.
Your fuel filter should clog up initially though, so be prepared with a spare.

DEBTMONKEY1A

Thanks Mikey.....the guy at the bio-diesel place said probably replace after 1000 miles....I think they may even put them on free! Just out of interest....if fuel filter did clog what would happen-would the car stop running (sorry I know thats a thick question!!!).

Guys/gals-I've seen a back street local Citreon specialist-am i right in beleiving that the 1.5 xnd is the same as a 1.5 saxo??

mikey72

DEBTMONKEY1A wrote: »

Thanks Mikey.....the guy at the bio-diesel place said probably replace after 1000 miles....I think they may even put them on free! Just out of interest....if fuel filter did clog what would happen-would the car stop running (sorry I know thats a thick question!!!).

Guys/gals-I've seen a back street local Citreon specialist-am i right in beleiving that the 1.5 xnd is the same as a 1.5 saxo??

Depends how fast it clogs up.
It'll either stop, or start to mis-fire at high throttle, as fuel flow reduces, or just lose the ability to rev.
If it gunges up badly, it may just not start one colder morning.

A saxo and 106 are the same.

DEBTMONKEY1A

Cheers Mikey! As the filter is 'see-through' can you actually see any 'gunge' start to form? And do you think 1000 miles is about right-or 5oo miles is better before changing filter? I'll have done say 420 miles approx by Sat am-that's when my friend is flushing the car....so it'd take 5 mins to change it (for him-I wouldn't have a clue!)....or is that too early????

Looking at what you/others have said I think putting a boshe pump on (even if done by a friend & driven straight to a diesel timing specialist) is not worth the agravation....

EDIT-Just seen somewhere on the web that the later 106's that had immobilisers DO have bosch pumps....anyone care to confirm?

DEBTMONKEY1A

So just to 100% clarify on BIO-DIESEL (with EN14214 standard) that NO damage will occur to fuel pump seals/fuel pump. Only proviso is to change fuel filter after around 1000 miles...CORRECT?

mikey72

DEBTMONKEY1A wrote: »

...

EDIT-Just seen somewhere on the web that the later 106's that had immobilisers DO have bosch pumps....anyone care to confirm?

Not as far as I was aware, very few and far between. Post up a picture of your pump if you can.

As to being 100%. That's what the marketing people say. No one else could be that certain. It appears to work on bio-diesel forums though.

DEBTMONKEY1A

Cool...thanks Mikey! You're always a great help! Wouldn't have a clue where fuel pump is so maybe will photograph next Sat when my friends flushed it etc....

Mikey in relation to my previos post do you think at 420 odd miles that'll be enough time to change fuel filter??? It's running on 100% bio-diesel at the mo ( i was brave & put in 18 litres!!) & when bio put in the tank was pretty much empty-giving it time to break down any deposits etc....spose I could allways change it at 420 miles & keep a spare (got full rac cover) if need be....or do you think it's better to leave it until 1000 miles???

mikey72

DEBTMONKEY1A wrote: »

Cool...thanks Mikey! You're always a great help! Wouldn't have a clue where fuel pump is so maybe will photograph next Sat when my friends flushed it etc....

Mikey in relation to my previos post do you think at 420 odd miles that'll be enough time to change fuel filter??? It's running on 100% bio-diesel at the mo ( i was brave & put in 18 litres!!) & when bio put in the tank was pretty much empty-giving it time to break down any deposits etc....spose I could allways change it at 420 miles & keep a spare (got full rac cover) if need be....or do you think it's better to leave it until 1000 miles???

Can't help you with that, I'm afraid it's how long is a piece of string?
Best thing is to let your mate have a look at it. If it's spotless. leave it, if it's dirty, change it.

Pump is front, offside, up at the top, with four metal pipes running from the end of the pump to the engine.
May even have a tag on it saying "lucas". (Or it may have dropped off years ago)