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Power cut in kitchen
Comments
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We had a similar issue some time back, Sockets kept tripping. Turned out to be the light in the fridge.
Sometimes when the door was opened the bulb would short and trip the switchbox. Not always though.
Quick fix i removed the bulb & it worked fine afterwards.
Need to trace your steps when it happens what in actually on that circuit?Censorship Reigns Supreme in Troll City...0 -
What circuits is your kitchen wired on? There should be a separate 32A ring main for power, and the lights should be on another 6A lighting circuit, probably the same radial circuit as the other downstairs lights, buty possibly on a dedicated circuit.
If switching off the kitchen ring main also takes out all your kitchen lighting, then something is very wrong.
What sort of spotlights are they-240V, 12V etc? What are they wired to? You need to give more detail about this and check your CU to see how the kitchen is wired.No free lunch, and no free laptop
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We had a similar issue recently and it turned out to be the dishwasher. Sometimes tripped power even when not actually switched on0
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I think the main circuit board needs a 40amp or something...0
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Can I suggest you go and look at your CU and tell us-or post a pic of it? The kitchen ring main should be a 32A MCB, any lighting circuits should be 6A. What is marked 'kitchen', or 'lights downstairs'?
Isolate each circuit in turn and note what goes off.
Your spotlights should not be wired to the ring main unless they have been spurred off from the ring main via FCU's (fused connection units) with the 5A fuses fitted. This is sometimes done for wall lights, but surely not for ceiling mounted spots?
How many spots, and what rating are they?No free lunch, and no free laptop
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Can I suggest you go and look at your CU and tell us-or post a pic of it? The kitchen ring main should be a 32A MCB, any lighting circuits should be 6A. What is marked 'kitchen', or 'lights downstairs'?
Isolate each circuit in turn and note what goes off.
Your spotlights should not be wired to the ring main unless they have been spurred off from the ring main via FCU's (fused connection units) with the 5A fuses fitted. This is sometimes done for wall lights, but surely not for ceiling mounted spots?
How many spots, and what rating are they?
Thanks Macman but a pro electrician will hopefully be out tomorrow so fingers crossed, think he said it was the oven that was causing the surge...0 -
It could well be, but that does not begin to address the issue of why your lights are potentially connected to a ring main in a dangerous manner. Please raise this with him if you do not want to do the basic checks yourself.No free lunch, and no free laptop
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Thanks Macman but a pro electrician will hopefully be out tomorrow so fingers crossed, think he said it was the oven that was causing the surge...
How can he tell without visiting?
As the problem(power and lights) only shows up in the kitchen(other rooms OK) there really would be something unusual to have lights and appliances lose power together - even more so if it was the oven causing the problem.
House wiring is on 'fused' circuits that split the house into zones. Lights should have their own circuit with a low rated 'fuse'(circuit breaker) and the 13 amp sockets for appliances are also on separate circuits(with a higher rated fuse) as is the cooker.
The point being that a fault on the cooker would normally trip out its own 'fuse' or in some cases the whole house; but not appliances and lights.0 -
Precisely. Perhaps the OP can enlighten us on what exactly is tripping out at the CU-which circuits are having to be reset? This basic info would make all the guessing games unnecessary.
If the oven is on it's own dedicated circuit, then it makes the loss of both kitchen power and lights even more problematic.No free lunch, and no free laptop
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All way too complicated for me sorry guys.0
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