Ignition Barrel Skoda Felicia

Wig

Update on post #10

A friends car (Skoda Felica, nearly on the scrap heap) needs to be hotwired. There is something stuck in the ignition barrel, We don't know how it got there because both keys are fine, and he stopped, parked, went away for 3 mins with the vehicle insight all the time, came back and the key won't go in. There's definately something in there, cos I saw it, and I pushed it further down before I knew what it was. My theory is that some part of the locks internals has broken off and fallen down inside.

So my plan is to try again to get it out using long pins etc
To remove the ingnition barrell and turn it up side down and tap it on the ground etc
If all that fails, to break the steering lock and hotwire it.
If all fails then to call a scrappy to come and collect it.

Things I need to know:

1. Once I get access to the ignition barrel .... how to remove it? I have already seen it is bolted to the steering column with two headless security bolts (probably the same on all cars). Are there some other screws closer to the barrel? Or how do the autolocksmiths do it then? Ahhhh I see now....
http://evansweb.info/2003/01/19/removing-the-ignition-lock-barrel
EDIT This does not work on a SKODA, How would I do this if I can't turn the key in the barrel? Think I'll force it with a screwdriver as a 'key'.

[strike]2. Which wires to hot wire with? I already know you have to tie two wires together and spark a third wire against the joint of the other two and release when the engine starts, but which colour wires are we talking here to do each job?[/strike]
I Reckon I'm going to be ok on this one.

3. Steering lock, what's the best way to break it? With a big hammer? How do you know which way to hit it anticlockwise or clockwise?

Gene_Hunt_2

Sent you a PM about 2.

Norman_Castle

Try WD40 in the lock.

vaio

Depends on the age but........

the "headless" bolts are a security feature, you might be able to drill them out or tap them round with a small chisel. You might also be able to angle grind/hacksaw/chisel the bracket instead of doing the bolts.

Once the mechanical bits are sorted the electrics are normally a separate switch fixed to the back end of the lock. Once you separate the two (often just screw or two) you'll be able to operate the switch using a screw driver

EcoR1

You often can't get the lock barrel off unless the ignition has been turned first. You may to resort to drilling the whole lock barrel out.

Wig

Chewed up and turned the lock round with a screwdriver, took some doing. Eventually The steering lock also became disabled. The only sign I found of the method to remove the lock barrel was a small hole (internally blocked) at the back of the cylinder assembly, I figured when the lock is in the right position you push something into this hole and it disengages the lock barrel. However, I could not get it to turn with the screwdriver to reveal any internal hole so that never happened.

I then concentrated on hotwiring, it was getting dark and I gave up soon after dismantling the ignition switch at the back which fell apart into a million little bits of metal and springs!!! :mad: It was only after that happened and I was packing up to go home I realised I could tow it home in its current condition. Had I realised that earlier I wouldn't have attacked the ignition switch. Win some, lose some. Towing it home tomorrow as it has no lights at the mo.

Anyway, I was a little concerned that in it's current state even if I do get it going again, it won't pass it's MOT. However my mind has been put at rest after a bit of googling. seems steering lock is not part of test, and although the current ignition switch is now knackered, I could probably easily fit some sort of DIY push button ignition switch.... anyone got any ideas for DIY mounted ignition switches?

Kilty_2

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22347 ?

For Racing Sport! :rotfl:

vaio

as steering locks tend to be spring loaded "on" I'd certainly be tempted to remove the mechanism completely before towing it unless you are absolutely sure it's off (and more importantly will stay off)

Wig

Yes, I am absolutely certain it is off and more importantly broken, so that even if it does click into place it breaks again with the slightest force on the steering wheel.

Towed it home today, no probs.

Now to concentrate on cleaning up the ignition barrel and working out some way of putting the ignition switch back together or setting up a hotwire method whilst I look around for a push button start.

Wig

OK it's finished, the update,

The definitive guide to replace fix fixing a broken ignition barrel in a Skoda Felicia 1996 1997 1998 1999 etc

At first glance you might think the ignition switch on a Felicia is difficult to remove and you'd be right. The 'ignition switch' is the electrical switch which is turned when you turn the key in the barrel. Usually if not always you will find the ignition switch 'behind' the key barrel and the Felicia is no different. It's the part where the electrical wires are connected. Do not remove the wires, because you may not remember where they go.

You will see a white plastic part where the wires are connected this is clasped to a metal cylinder with three clasps. DO NOT undo those clasps! If you do, the ignition switch will fall apart into a million little bits and you will need a new one - Like I did!

If your key barrel is knackered and you want to start your car, you can remove the ignition switch-metal cylinder thingy quite easily. First of all to get better access, I cut off (hacksaw blade) the plastic facia from around the key barrel in a straight line from the bottom edge by the foot pedals following the corner-line of the moulding all the way up to the top edge above the key barrel. then another cut from the steering column side of the top edge along the top edge to the corner and it's free, undo the screw at the bottom edge & remove plastic.

Now you have convenient access to the ignition barrel assembly, well, more than you did before anyway.

On the bottom, at the rear, of the big black metal casting which accomodates the ignition barrel, you will see a hole about 3mm diameter in the metal cylinder of the igintion switch. This hole does nothing, but it gives you the location of a hidden screw on the black casting, right next to it, scratch away the black paint and you will see a fine flat blade srewdriver slot (jeweller's screwdriver) undo this screw and it is a short stubby screwthread with a point on the inside. There is another exactly the same on the top of the metal casting 180° away. bit more fiddley to get to the top one but I did it no problem. Undo both screws and the ignition switch will pull away.

With the key in the barrel or near the barrel (because of the immobiliser) you can turn the ignition switch with a screw driver to start the engine.

Your problem will be driving the car, the steering lock, you will have to break this to drive the car, I'll leave that to you to work out, but mine broke when I drilled out the ignition barrel.

You can buy a replacement ignition switch for £15 from Skoda, or you can buy the whole assembly of
*Ignition barrel,
*new Key,
*Ignition switch
*And steering lock assembly
as a complete unit but I don't know how much that would be.

If you buy the whole assembly, you would have to remove the old one to replace it, to do this I looked at it and decided the best/only way to do this would be to get a small junior hacksaw, or a "blade holder" for a normal sized hacksaw blade. There is a securing screw at the rear, to the left of the black metal casting when viewed from driving seat. You cannot undo this screw because it is a security screw and the head has been snapped off. So I would use the hacksaw to cut a vertical slot through the aluminium down to the top of the screw (about 3mm) this slot will be very useful to hold the blade in place when you then continue to cut into the screw-head, when you have a decent slot cut you should be able to turn it out with a screw driver.

You cannot remove the little ignition barrel alone (like you can with the ignition switch) it has to be replaced as a complete unit from Skoda.

On this car you now start the car by putting the key next to the barrel, put a screwdriver in to turn to position 1, turn the screwdriver, engine starts, release screwdriver back to position 1, you can take the key away now and drive the car, to stop turn screwdriver to off position.

The facia plastic that you cut off can be put back on so the car looks almost normal again, it is secured at the bottom with the screw you un-did earlier and at the top is fits around the ignition assembly it seems to hold itself in place, but a last resort would be a bit of tape.

Just so you know, a car with a screwdriver start does not fail an MOT. But you need to have the steeering lock disabled, not sure if it will pass MOT if the steering lock is slightly 'clicking' all the time - like ours is. The 'clicking' can be stopped by pushing the steering lock bit inside the barrel to the right but I haven't worked out how to hold it in that position yet.

Not many people will need this guide, perhaps no-one will ever need it, but I would have liked to have something like this to refer to, so that's why it's here.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

sounds like a dropped/barrel pin wedged in the head of the barrel. needs new barrel or setup a switch for icc then a push type button to start wit the key near the Immobilser sensor (if fitted)