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How would you access this leak ???
Comments
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If its plasterboard I could get to the pipe in 30 seconds to a minute with a hammer.....
But if you want them to take care why do you not remove it yourself?Not Again0 -
1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »If its plasterboard I could get to the pipe in 30 seconds to a minute with a hammer.....
But if you want them to take care why do you not remove it yourself?
I'm hoping an experienced plumber will know where to start hammering.
Whilst I have a history of nailing,cutting anything behind a wall/floor
I thought it would be more difficult/time consuming to get to a pipe behind a partition rather than floorboard, hence a higher charge.
P.S. What is the typical hourly charge for a plumber in Yorkshire? I have fortunatley not needed one in about 10 years.0 -
Have you checked if the leak is actually in the loft???
If it's a result of a frozen pipe it's likely to be in the loft space itself and therefore there's no need to break into the partition wall at all.
I suspect anyone would struggle to give you an idea of cost as the actual source of the leak is unknown but to repair the leak alone without making good after etc..... £500 is a decent amount and I'd be surprised if that didn't cover the cost of identifying and repairing the leak.0 -
I'm hoping an experienced plumber will know where to start hammering.
Whilst I have a history of nailing,cutting anything behind a wall/floor
I thought it would be more difficult/time consuming to get to a pipe behind a partition rather than floorboard, hence a higher charge.
P.S. What is the typical hourly charge for a plumber in Yorkshire? I have fortunatley not needed one in about 10 years.
I am with Tucker on this one.
Unfortunately its one of them jobs no one is going to have a clue cost wise about until they get there & find the problem.
Whatever the plumber does do not expect them to put it all back together afterwards.
As for an hourly rate in Yorkshire I really haven't got a clue.
Expect at least 3 hrs to find the problem, gain access (without hammer) & fix it. That way you will not be disappointed.
Then expect a builder.
Or expect 5 minutes in the loft with an adjustable wrench.Not Again0 -
Have you checked if the leak is actually in the loft???
If it's a result of a frozen pipe it's likely to be in the loft space itself and therefore there's no need to break into the partition wall at all.
Yes, been crawling around loft as far as possible. The tank itself is close to the latch. However, the pipes lead all the way up to the eaves and then down the inner wall. They are all lagged upto this point. I cannot see any evidence of leaks from here. Its either at the bottom of this joint or further down.
The leak only occurs when the tank is filling to the point where water is exiting via the pipe to the water cylinder (small storage area in kitchen). There is a stop valve on the mains water feed to the tank (a few inches from the ball valve). Once this is off, mains water can be used throughout the house with no signs of a leak. Therefore it must be the feed to the cylinder which is leaking.
There are 3 pipes behind the partition which I think are mains feed to tank & bathroom, hot water to bathroom, and return feed from tank.
There are also 3 pipes (excluding overflow) on the tank, mains feed, cylinder feed at bottom, and a third pipe attached to the top which I don't know the purpose of?
It also seems to be twists and turns everytime I try and figure it out. But at least I am learning about the whole system in the house, and the location of every stop/drain valve. Didn't even know where the mains shut-off was until a few days ago! (recently purchased).
P.S. Thank you for all your advice and tips, might be telling the plumber what to do soon :rotfl:0 -
Yes, been crawling around loft as far as possible. The tank itself is close to the latch. However, the pipes lead all the way up to the eaves and then down the inner wall. They are all lagged upto this point. I cannot see any evidence of leaks from here. Its either at the bottom of this joint or further down.
The leak only occurs when the tank is filling to the point where water is exiting via the pipe to the water cylinder (small storage area in kitchen). There is a stop valve on the mains water feed to the tank (a few inches from the ball valve). Once this is off, mains water can be used throughout the house with no signs of a leak. Therefore it must be the feed to the cylinder which is leaking.
There are 3 pipes behind the partition which I think are mains feed to tank & bathroom, hot water to bathroom, and return feed from tank.
There are also 3 pipes (excluding overflow) on the tank, mains feed, cylinder feed at bottom, and a third pipe attached to the top which I don't know the purpose of?
It also seems to be twists and turns everytime I try and figure it out. But at least I am learning about the whole system in the house, and the location of every stop/drain valve. Didn't even know where the mains shut-off was until a few days ago! (recently purchased).
P.S. Thank you for all your advice and tips, might be telling the plumber what to do soon :rotfl:
That is a guess. You cant deduce that because it makes no sense at all.Not Again0 -
Looking at your (awesome!) diagram, can you be sure it's not leakage from the shower unit (either waste or the water inlets)? It may be worth eliminating from your enquiries! At least it would be a cheap fix!
Also, don't know if it helps, but you can get inexpensive endoscopes/boroscopes which may mean you can see a little more detail for the sake of a series of small holes easily fixed with filler and lick of paint.0 -
The stop valve, a few inches from the ball valve, as posted, only isolates that few inches. something is wrong with your pipe tracing.This is an open forum, anyone can post and I just did !0
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The stop valve, a few inches from the ball valve, as posted, only isolates that few inches. something is wrong with your pipe tracing.
This is the pipe from the mains supply to the tank. I am assuming that this pipe is still full of water apart from a few inches between the tank and stop valve. I can then keep the mains supply on fully and all cold taps including electric shower can be run, without any leaks.
Its only if the storage tank begins to fill that the leaking starts i.e. when the water begins to leave the tank. I have access to cold water taps, but not hot water ones because the hot water cylinder is no longer being filled (pipe from tank).0 -
Just got off the phone with insurer's 'home emergency' providor - Homeserve. They are sending someone out tomorrow 'between 8am - 6pm'.
I tried to explain the problem and indicated that it could involve accessing a pipe through a partition/wall. I was advised that the contractor has to deal with 10 emegencies per day, so can only spend 1.5 hours on each job, including travel time. If he/she can't access/repair within the timescale they will 'isolate and advise'.
So, I have to book a day's leave from work just so that potentially I can be told 'I don't have enough time to fix this!'.
Is this a typical home emergency cover, or are they supposed to stay and get the job done (within reason/cost).0
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