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Rewire specification for home av, lighting, power and security
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For clarity I would separate out the networking from the electrical work in your work schedule. I don't think you've mentioned where all the Cat6 cables are terminated. They should come back to a wiring closet where you can patch them and attach an ethernet switch etc. as required. There needs to be mains sockets for equipment. 3x Cat6 per room may be overkill. Easiest to install in pairs so run either 2 or 4.0
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You won't need supplementary bonding in the bathroom or anywhere as your install will all be RCD protected - but your sparks will know this.
I would also add - fridge/freezer on separate RCBO protected circuit - the reason being that if one of the RCD's trips while you're away, you won't loose the contents....
I would also second the idea of a 5A lighting circuit in the living room and possibly the main bedroom - this means you can plug in your lights and control them from a single switch/dimmer.
If you are thinking of having dimmer switches in the future, make sure you have 35mm deep back boxes installed now as this is what they require.
Bathroom - consider shaver socket (for leccy toothbrushes) and some form of mirror lighting for shaving/make up. Down lights will not give the best light for this
If you have wall mounted cupboards in the kitchen, think about under cabinet lights, as the light from the down lights will be blocked but you when you are doing your food prep!
I don't see any provision for a cooker, hob ignition or extractor fan in the kitchen....
Finally, I personally don't think that down lights are the best form of lighting for a dining room where you might want something a bit more intimate. But it's your house!
Fluff0 -
Hi,
currently trying to specify a rewire for a house we have recently purchased - never done a rewire spec before so looking for advice on completeness and choice of items within.
any views or advice?- Mains - New compliant split-way Consumer unit fitted with dual Residual Current (safety) Device and Miniature Circuit Breakers with capacity for appropriate number of circuits.
- Garage - 4 double power sockets, 2 fluorescent lights retained ceiling light and 2 double light switches (2 way). (Garage interior + exterior lights), provide power connection for future electrical roller garage door, One alarm supply point.
- Porch - 1 porch light - connected to hall switch
- Hall - 2 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one triple light switch. (Hall, Porch and Garage exterior lights), 1 double switch (2 way, hall and landing)
- Living room - 6 double power sockets, 2 ceiling lights, 4 wall lights and 1 quadruple light switch. 2 x Cat6 / HDMI, freeview and sky connected panels
- Dining room (joined to kitchen) - 2 double power sockets, multiple downlighters, 1 single light switch
- Kitchen - 10 double power sockets, xx downlighters and one double light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate).
- Utility room - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch.
- Downstairs cloaks / WC - One alarm supply point, one ceiling light and one single light switch. Extractor fan and switch for electric shower unit
- Landing - 2 double power sockets, One ceiling light (two-way switched) and one double light switch. Hall and landing
- Bathroom - Multiple down lighters and 1 switch - linked to extractor fan
- Bedroom 1 - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate).
- Bedroom 2 - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate).
- Bedroom 3 - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate).
- Bedroom 4 - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate). BT master telephone socket
- Loft - Retain 2 fluorescent lighting strips, 1 single light switch.
- Main bonding To gas and water services.
- Positions of points to be agreed with client. Power sockets, switches and wiring to be flush fitted into plaster/masonry and replastered to bonding coat. Cabling to be installed in floor, ceiling and loft voids. Includes removal of old cabling.
- Includes supply of NICEIC completion certificate and part P registering works with the local council.
Questions:
dimming swtiches and points inc downlighters?
number of cat6 outlets in panels?
cat6 = correct spec for hdmi
do i need to serve the hdmi with something?
assume ok to connect network switches and router to cat6 in bed 4 to serve multiple computers
When I design home electrical refurbishments I ask a lot of questions...
Would you like to be able to turn off all non-essential lighting from the comfort of your bed (to save going down stairs to turn off a forgotten lamp on a cold night)?
Would you like to be able to turn on / off your main bedroom light from a switch beside your bed?
25% of lighting which forms a rewire must be dedicated energy efficient items - where would you like them? Entrance hall, upstairs landing, bathroom, outside lights...
I am setting up a website to provide advice and a design-aid for homes in England and Wales. Would you provide information to contribute to the site?
I'll get back to you with other help, if needed.
I normally put the guts for data networks within a loft area just inside the access hatch. I would recommend an emergency light unit to illuminate the area and have alarm panel/cabling, audio/visual cabling and any other non-mains cabling going back to this point. These cables would also be protected by at least a flexible conduit to ensure seperation from mains cables throughout the installation.
The fridge/freezer motor can possibly trip a RCBO/RCD... Why not meet the criteria for not having to RCD protect such a circuit? I do the same with the smoke alarm system and the alarm system of a domestic installation.0 -
Another quickie...
Many just provide upstairs and downstairs light circuits... I find there's an advantage to having 3 lighting circuits whereas the 3rd serves the entrance hall/upstairs landing.0 -
Hi
Seems like a good spec.
Couple of suggestions, have you thought about a triplexer for the lounge ? Digital radio, sky, & terrestrial. I know the world is convinced that all all signals will be digital, but maybe not all. Maybe a media plate behind the TV, some new houses are now being fitted with these. If you are into music do a search on euro modules, these can be fitted into an accessory plate the same size as a socket, like you cat 6 modules. In euro format you can have binding posts for audio speakers.
If installing cat 6 points, maybe consider running in fibre optic for future use.
I would also run neutrals to light switches/fittings, then you can fit the dimming/mood lighting technology in the future that is starting to hit the market now
Personally it's just a case of how much money you want to spend, but the spec you have is more than a volume private housebuilder would put in.0 -
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interesting topic. i have replied on here for my own reference
thanks0 -
Mustard_Dave wrote: »Subject to the earth continuity checking out okay. With the amount of plastic pipe that gets installed, often it may not.
?? not sure I follow this? Can you enlighten me?0 -
appears a number of posts have disappeared on this thread - a shame as there was a very useful post from someone on the spec
I have also had 3 quotes in now which were posted also
they are inc vat @ 20%:
1. £4740
2. £5950
3. £95480 -
just posting back, after a three more quotes and simplifying the spec a little i have a spark starting very soon.
Final price is 4300, had a number of quotes come in this region, mainly due to it being a slightly quieter time it seems, so sparks have cut their margins a touch here in the north west.0
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