Rewire specification for home av, lighting, power and security

fraser

Hi,

currently trying to specify a rewire for a house we have recently purchased - never done a rewire spec before so looking for advice on completeness and choice of items within.

any views or advice?

• Mains - New compliant split-way Consumer unit fitted with dual Residual Current (safety) Device and Miniature Circuit Breakers with capacity for appropriate number of circuits.
• Garage - 4 double power sockets, 2 fluorescent lights retained ceiling light and 2 double light switches (2 way). (Garage interior + exterior lights), provide power connection for future electrical roller garage door, One alarm supply point.
• Porch - 1 porch light - connected to hall switch
• Hall - 2 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one triple light switch. (Hall, Porch and Garage exterior lights), 1 double switch (2 way, hall and landing)
• Living room - 6 double power sockets, 2 ceiling lights, 4 wall lights and 1 quadruple light switch. 2 x Cat6 / HDMI, freeview and sky connected panels
• Dining room (joined to kitchen) - 2 double power sockets, multiple downlighters, 1 single light switch
• Kitchen - 10 double power sockets, xx downlighters and one double light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate).
• Utility room - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch.
• Downstairs cloaks / WC - One alarm supply point, one ceiling light and one single light switch. Extractor fan and switch for electric shower unit
• Landing - 2 double power sockets, One ceiling light (two-way switched) and one double light switch. Hall and landing
• Bathroom - Multiple down lighters and 1 switch - linked to extractor fan
• Bedroom 1 - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate).
• Bedroom 2 - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate).
• Bedroom 3 - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate).
• Bedroom 4 - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate). BT master telephone socket
• Loft - Retain 2 fluorescent lighting strips, 1 single light switch.
• Main bonding To gas and water services.
• Positions of points to be agreed with client. Power sockets, switches and wiring to be flush fitted into plaster/masonry and replastered to bonding coat. Cabling to be installed in floor, ceiling and loft voids. Includes removal of old cabling.
• Includes supply of NICEIC completion certificate and part P registering works with the local council.

Questions:
dimming swtiches and points inc downlighters?
number of cat6 outlets in panels?
cat6 = correct spec for hdmi
do i need to serve the hdmi with something?
assume ok to connect network switches and router to cat6 in bed 4 to serve multiple computers

Catbells

You seem to have it sorted. Am having a few adjustments made to my own new house's electrical needs and thought I would suggest to you the fact that you might want to have some wall lights put in ( we do) in some of the rooms and this involves chasing out plaster work in order to do this. So for eg if you would rather have wall lights - or for that matter low voltage spotlights in the ceiling - you will have to change this now before you decorate. Hope this is the sort of suggestions you are looking for!

phill99

Make sure you have really thought about the number of sockets you need. Its so much easier and cheaper to have more fitted now than to have more installed at a leter date. Eg, is 6 enough in the lounge given the number of appliances we have nowadays? Ditto bedrooms.

Ensure the extractor has an over run timer to clear steam after a shower/bath to ansure you don't get condensation forming.

What about an external socket? ideal for using lawnmowers / power tools etc outside

fraser

good shouts - forgot about external sockets

for AV in the lounge I usually have the Belkin AV protector extentsions to protect against spikes, however looking at my office currently I am using 11 sockets as I type, fed via the same fused extensions by Belkin - will look at addtional power points

Mustard_Dave

Seems okay to me. I don't disagree with any of the replies either. I would add:

*Wired interconnected smoke alarms
*Alarm supply on its own circuit
*Dedicated ring main serving the kitchen and utility room
*Upstairs and downstairs on separate rings/lighting circuits (they would do this anyway - not many 4 bedroom houses could be served off 1 ring and lighting circuit)
*Do you have a shed? Does it need a supply?
*Amend main bonding to include supplementary bonding in bathroom, downstairs cloak and boiler
*Do you really want dimmers? I personally never use them so they would be a waste of time for me. They can be added later without additional wiring
*If you have an outside socket, you may want to supply it from a switched spur or a 20A DP switch inside the house
*Switches for supplies to kitchen appliances above the worktop

fraser

Many thanks

revised spec - hope it is of use to someone else as well

• Mains - New compliant split-way Consumer unit fitted with dual Residual Current (safety) Device and Miniature Circuit Breakers with capacity for appropriate number of circuits.
• Garage - 4 double power sockets, 2 fluorescent lights retained ceiling light and 2 double light switches (2 way). (Garage interior + exterior lights), provide power connection for future electrical roller garage door, One alarm supply point.
• Exterior - 1 x front power socket, 1 x side of garage power socket
• Porch - 1 porch light - connected to hall switch
• Hall - 2 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one triple light switch. (Hall, Porch and Garage exterior lights), 1 double switch (2 way, hall and landing)
• Living room - 10 double power sockets, 2 ceiling lights, 4 wall lights and 1 quadruple light switch. 2 x panels consisting of 3 x Cat6 / HDMI, 1 x freeview and 1x freesat points
• Dining room (joined to kitchen) - 4 double power sockets, multiple downlighters, 1 single dimmer light switch
• Kitchen - 10 double power sockets, xx downlighters and one double light switch. 1 x Cat6 (serving HDMI), freeview connected panel (multiple connections on face plate).
• Utility room - 3 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch.
• Downstairs cloaks / shower room - One alarm supply point, one ceiling light and one single light switch. Extractor fan with over run timer and switch for electric shower unit
• Landing - 2 double power sockets, One ceiling light (two-way switched) and one double light switch. Hall and landing
• Bathroom - Multiple down lighters and 1 switch - linked to extractor fan with over run timer
• Bedroom 1 - 4 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x panel consisting of 3 x Cat6 / HDMI, 1 x freeview and 1x freesat points
• Bedroom 2 - 4 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x panel consisting of 3 x Cat6 / HDMI, 1 x freeview and 1x freesat points
• Bedroom 3 - 4 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x panel consisting of 3 x Cat6 / HDMI, 1 x freeview and 1x freesat points
• Bedroom 4 -4 double power sockets, one ceiling light and one single light switch. 1 x panel consisting of 3 x Cat6 / HDMI, 1 x freeview and 1x freesat points. BT master telephone socket
• Loft - Retain 2 fluorescent lighting strips, 1 single light switch.
• Bonding - Main bonding - To gas and water services. Supplementary bonding in bathroom, downstairs cloak and boiler

• *Wired interconnected smoke alarms
• *Alarm supply on its own circuit
• *Dedicated ring main serving the kitchen and utility room
• *Upstairs and downstairs on separate rings/lighting circuits
• *Outside sockets, supply from a switched spur or a 20A DP switch inside the house
• *Switches for supplies to kitchen appliances above the worktop

• Positions of points to be agreed with client. Power sockets, switches and wiring to be flush fitted into plaster/masonry and replastered to bonding coat. Cabling to be installed in floor, ceiling and loft voids. Includes removal of old cabling.

• Includes supply of NICEIC completion certificate and part P registering works with the local council.

Questions:

• dimming swtiches and points inc downlighters?
• number of cat6 outlets in panels?
• cat6 = correct spec for hdmi
• Patch panel required - need advice as to placement

1984ReturnsForReal_2

If I was doing all that I would put in a heat sensor in the kitchen & if you have a mechanical thermostat an extra live for remote use in the future.

fraser

1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »

If I was doing all that I would put in a heat sensor in the kitchen & if you have a mechanical thermostat an extra live for remote use in the future.

as in a heat alarm similar to a smoke alarm?

new boiler next week that will have a wireless controller

Mankysteve

fraser wrote: »

as in a heat alarm similar to a smoke alarm?

Indeed you can also get laser ones for kitchen, just use a sensor in the kitchen that is kitchen suitable.

Also in a bathroom I personal would use a humidistat controlled fan rather than over run guaranteed that way to keep the moisture level low comes on even if the bathroom light isnt switched on also if the cloak room doesn't have any ventilation you may want a constantly running fan. Also have you considered Heat exchangers are instead of standard extractor fans.

Sounds like a full on renovation you've got there have fun.

1984ReturnsForReal_2

fraser wrote: »

as in a heat alarm similar to a smoke alarm?

new boiler next week that will have a wireless controller

Heat sensor/detector goes off in the event of a excessive heat & fire.

A smoke alarm goes off for burnt toast, steam etc etc as well as smoke.

I would fit one in addition if you are doing the lot.

diable

What about outside security/safety lighting and for the living room a switched circuit for the table lamps.

Include all hidden wiring for surround system etc etc