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Laying solid wood floor - HELP!!

MORPH3US
Posts: 4,906 Forumite

Hi everyone,
Seen a few posts on here about solid wood floors, but mostly asking between laminate and solid.
I have solid wood (bamboo) waiting to go down in the lounge and wanted some help with fitting questions:
1. Do I need a damp proof mambrane? The floor will be on top of a concrete floor in the lounge downstairs. I looked at the guide on the Wickes site and it doesn't mention using the membrane. http://www.wickes.co.uk/stry/layingarealwoodfloorina16
2. Do I need to glue it? It says in the instructions to use glue, but I can't see the point as its not likely to move anywhere once all in. And it gives us the option to take boards up in future and replace or remove completely.
3. Why do I need those little plastic spacers around the edges? Can't I just put the cork strip straight in and do it that way?
Cheers
M
Seen a few posts on here about solid wood floors, but mostly asking between laminate and solid.
I have solid wood (bamboo) waiting to go down in the lounge and wanted some help with fitting questions:
1. Do I need a damp proof mambrane? The floor will be on top of a concrete floor in the lounge downstairs. I looked at the guide on the Wickes site and it doesn't mention using the membrane. http://www.wickes.co.uk/stry/layingarealwoodfloorina16
2. Do I need to glue it? It says in the instructions to use glue, but I can't see the point as its not likely to move anywhere once all in. And it gives us the option to take boards up in future and replace or remove completely.
3. Why do I need those little plastic spacers around the edges? Can't I just put the cork strip straight in and do it that way?
Cheers
M
0
Comments
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You need to be looking at how level the concrete floor is. are you removing or replacing the skirting boards or just laying up to them?
Has the concrete been set at a lower level? If so, you could put a 'floating floor' in. Ask at a builders merchants for info. on this (it's not expensive) polystyrene based product.
Is the flooring of a tongue and grrove nature? If so, you can either glue or use a secret nail gun to make the joins. Don't fit the floooring tight up to the walls. Wood is a natural product and as such retains movement.
I have fitted laminate flooring for others and wouldn't put it in my house if I was given it.One hundred years from now it won't matter what kind of car I drove, what kind of house I lived in, how much money I had in the bank, nor what my clothes looked like but the world may be a little better because, I was important in the life of a child.0 -
1. Am removing the skirting boards.
2. How do you mean has it "been set at a lower level"? Its just a concrete floor with underlay and carpet on top in my lounge.
3. Yes the flooring is tongue and groove. Still don't understand why I need to glue / nail at all. Thats my question! Once its all in place, it won't be able top move anywhere so I can't see the point!
4. Yes I know not to put it right up to the walls, hence my question about the expansion strip in the first place.
5. Thanks for the comment about laminate flooring, I agree and thats why I went for solid wood flooring, a million miles away from laminate. Saying that though, some people are hapoy with laminate, everyone to their own!!
M0 -
morpheus,
A couple of things, before you start make sure the wood has had time to get used to the temperature in your room, a couple of days is normally plenty. Do not open the packages in this time as the wood will be likely to twist as it adjusts.
We have had the good fortune to have laid both a floating timber floor and a glued one. The problem with timber flooring in general is that it expands and contracts dependant of the weather conditions irrespective of how much moisture content was in the boards to start with. So in the summer when it is hot the boards will generally be at their widest, as you get closer to winter they tend to contract and will occasionally open up on joints (if you lay it as a floating floor).
If you are going to lay it down and glue just the joints not glue it to the floor it is best to have a cushoined membrane between the wood and the concrete, only because it will deaden the sound, this does not need to be a damp proof membrane the thin compressed polystyrene on a roll is fine. As we are nearing winter make sure you allow approximately 10mm gaps to the edges, as the wood will definately expand. (We came home once to find our floor like a wave in our dining area it had risen by approximately 3 inches, the only way I could get it down was the take off the skirting boards in an internal corner and Dremel the board cutting at least 10mm off the full length)
The second time we did a wooden floor we glued it down onto the concrete, it made it a little noiser than the floating floor, but it was far more stable. This floor does not distort like my floating floor and feels more solid.
One thing you notice with the floating floor is that when people walk around on it, it gives a little and you can see this movement. It give the impression of it being a laminate, and so look cheaper.
Given the choice again I would have glued the first floor down aswell.
Tips on fitting
I would expect you to have a selection of random length boards, this is good as it will reduce the wasteage. When you start, lay out about 4 rows (if the room is about 3metres wide), and select a variety of boards so that the joints do not end up in the same place all the time and cut to length as required. Put these aside and apply the glue, this will give you plenty of time for the floor to be laid without the glue drying on you. Try not to do more rows than 4 as you will find it hard to reach the first row without putting your hands in the glue.
Definately get something comfortable to kneel on, a piece of cushioned foam is good as it keeps the cold out.
Its ok to walk on the glued floor that you have put down but when you have finished a section for the day and if you have not finish the room make sure all the boards are tightly packed together and either strap them or screw a piece of timber into the concrete to hold them in place.
Good luck with it, and make sure there is a warm relaxing bath at the end of the day. Your back will need it.I had a plan..........its here somewhere.0 -
Mikeywills, thanks for your reply. My OH is going to be laying real wood floor as a winter job. Going to print off your reply and give it to him. Might even wrap it up as a Xmas Present!!! :rotfl::dance: "Never save something for a special occasion. Every day in your life is a special occasion". _party_0
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You're welcome missbehaving, would love to see your OH face on the 25th, I bet it will be as pretty as a picture.:DI had a plan..........its here somewhere.0
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mikeywills wrote:A couple of things, before you start make sure the wood has had time to get used to the temperature in your room, a couple of days is normally plenty.
No worries there, we have had it in the house for about 3 months, another job I haven't had time to do.....mikeywills wrote:Good luck with it, and make sure there is a warm relaxing bath at the end of the day. Your back will need it.
Don't like the sound of that... wonder if I could fake a break in where they steal the flooring but leave my tv and computer?!?!
Seriously though, massive thanks for the advice. Still not sure what to do about this, I suppose if I float it and am really not happy with it then I could take it up and glue it!
Thanks again!!
M0
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