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Painting Door's

clark1982
Posts: 245 Forumite
Hi Folks,
Just looking for some advice.
I've just moved in to a new house, the internal door's are bare wood. What's the best paint to use? I beleive I'll need to use Undercoat? Is there an alternative to gloss?, but still gives the same sort of protection?
Thanks
Just looking for some advice.
I've just moved in to a new house, the internal door's are bare wood. What's the best paint to use? I beleive I'll need to use Undercoat? Is there an alternative to gloss?, but still gives the same sort of protection?
Thanks
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Comments
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You'll need to seal any knots first, to prevent them "bleeding" resin in the future.
Then prime then. Then undercoat.
Instead of gloss, I would use Eggshell which gives a soft sheen.
Lightly sand the doors in between all coats of paint, including the primer/undercoat.Warning ..... I'm a peri-menopausal axe-wielding maniac0 -
if there solid wood why nor varnish / stain them ? they may be waxed already which means you will have to sand them before you paint themIf it doesnt pay rent sell it.
Mortgage - £2,000
Updated - November 20120 -
Good advice from Chick, specially the part about the knotting
for the sake of a couple of mins applying the knotting solution you avoid those ugly brown stains thru your lovely paintwork, and they will come thru after about 6 -12, after you have painted, and you will have a nightmare trying to get rid of them.
Its dries in no time, then use an oil base primer, which is a greyish colour,, leave for a day, then start your undercoating,O/B, thin down the first coat of U/C, then do another 1-2, personally I would do 2 U/c on top of your primer, then either satinwood or eggshell, again 2 top coats, and oilbase.
You can stick in a quick drying U/C in between, but the oilbase offers better protection, if your going with gloss,:eek:then just finish off with 1 coat, but you might have to do an extra U/C instead.
By doing all these coats, not only do you get a better finish, but also more protection, and less chance of it chipping, which it shouldnt if your using oilbase.
BTW, I would still add a tad of white spirit to my gloss or satin etc, as being a DIY painter it will take longer to paint the door, so by adding the white spirit, and mixing it well, will give you a bit more flow to complete the painting of the door.
And of course gently sand between coats.0 -
"Painting Door's"
Painting Door's what? What does the door own that you are wanting to paint?
Arghhhhhhhhh!
Go and get a book on apostrophes!British Ex-pat in British Columbia!0 -
Painting doors, doorframes etc. has always been a nightmare for me - with modern paint (of whatever type) I always find it very difficult to keep a "wet edge" and sooner or later (particularly on doors) end up meeting a painted edge that has started to "go off" whilst still applying fresh paint (doors in particular are very bad for this, because of the large surface area). No doubt other people don't have this problem because they paint faster than me; however I do take my time to get as good a finish as possible without any runs etc.
I've now found the answer!! Having built a Wickes Hardwood conservatory about 10 years ok, I was pretty p***ed off when the Wickes "all singing, all dancing" wood finish supplied ended up peeling and blistering after only 2 years. Ever had to rub down the exterior of a conservatory to bare wood ALL OVER? Trust me, don't go there.
I naturally did some serious homework when choosing a replacement finish. The answer was JOTUN Trebitt as a basecoat, followed by JOTUN Demidekk as the top coat (as recommended in a long-term paint test in Which? magazine). Superbly easy to use and is lasting a treat. Apparently JOTUN is a Norwegian company and makes all sorts of paints (see https://www.Jotun.co.uk).
Back to the Door problem. I noticed that the Jotun Trebitt looked really good and was so easy to apply and get a good finish (even for me). After talking to the JOTUN technical rep. for my area he confirmed that it could be used as an interior paint on new wood etc. So that's what I've done on new pine skirtings, doorframes, doors etc. (finished a new door a week or so ago). Give the door etc. a good sanding & fill any dents etc. (I do this outside wherever possible then blow the dust off using an airline from a compressor, though not many will have this option I know. An alternative is to wipe the door all over with a clean rag moistened with white spirit and allow to dry - it's very good at removing dust. Don't use water, as it will raise the grain and make the door feel rough again - you'll have to re-sand. One tip - for small dents etc. try applying a little water to the damaged area - it causes the wood to swell and may make filling uneccessary. Sand the area when dry). Wipe the door with "Tack Cloth" (available from good decorator's merchants) all over immediately prior to painting - it's a sticky cloth that picks up any remaining dust etc. from the surface and helps improve the final finish.
I use two coats of Jotun Trebitt white paint (NO primer, undercoat etc. is required). It does take a while to dry (bear this in mind if you have kids) and leave a minimum of 24 hours between coats. Jotun may well suggest a very light sand between coats, though I don't unless I have to and never have a problem. The white finish is semi-translucent and allows the wood grain to show through, which looks really good in my opinion. Although Trebitt is described as a wood stain, I find it gives a smooth satin finish. It's available in loads of colours, and I think they can mix up BS colour codes as well.
Brushes clean in white spirit. (For brush cleaning I prefer standard cellulose thinners from a car paint suppliers, at less than a tenner a gallon. Far better than white spirit, but keep it away from painted & polished surfaces cos' it'll strip them before your very eyes. This includes those smart red wooden handles on your favourite expensive Harris brushes......). (I also use it for cleaning WHITE upvc double glazing window frames - works a treat. Keep it away from rubber seals and only use white rag, else the colour comes out. Done this 2 or 3 times on the same frames over the last 12 years with no problem BUT try it at your own risk on an invisible area first - I'm sure that someone will shout don't do it cos' it'll melt the frames. All I can say is it works for me).
One last point - JOTUN paint usually has to be ordered (very quick though) from a decorator's supplies (I use Brewer's in Hertfordshire). I've no connection with JOTUN whatsoever - just very pleased with their stuff. Do a search on Google and decide for yourself. Have fun!!
Polybear.0 -
I would do as suggested ie undercoat etc then use a foam roller - apply the gloss paint thinly with the roller and finish off with a brush.0
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clark1982 wrote:Hi Folks,
Just looking for some advice.
I've just moved in to a new house, the internal door's are bare wood. What's the best paint to use? I beleive I'll need to use Undercoat? Is there an alternative to gloss?, but still gives the same sort of protection?
Thanks
new house as in new build?
Your doors should have been finished for you, can't imagine it getting passed for sale mind you if it was.
soft or hard wood? Don't paint over a hard wood door, waste of a good door IMO.
As said above, knott , prime , u/coat and finish0
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