Bathroom wall/floor construction help?

keystone

bery_451 wrote: »

i just want to be safe than sorry just in case the sealant, grout around the bath fails and lets the water through.

The sealant will fail if the bath is poorly installed whatever you use as the substrate. Once you get water down there you've got a problem anyway whether the PB is moisture resistant or not. Having it moisture resistant only delays the inevitable when you get the leak.

so your recommendation is just normal wall reconstruction like any other wall in the house cause the tiles will protect it from water?

Its the finish which includes the sealant round the bath which prevents leaks. But if you install the wall tiles poorly water will get in. If you do not prepare the floor correctly before tiling the grout will crack, tiles will lift and water will get in.

The place you really need to attention to is the area around a shower. You could use moisture resistant PB there, you could use standard pb there and tank it, you could use aquapanel. I usuall PB the lot with standard board (D&D onto brick / blockwork and screwed to stud) and tank the wet area.

i could leave the window open for ventilation but the bathroom gets cold. Whats the best ventilation to use? What about dehumidifiers?

You must instal an extract fan now under building regs and it must have a run on timer. Get one with a humidistat too.

Cheers

bery_451

keystone wrote: »

The sealant will fail if the bath is poorly installed whatever you use as the substrate. Once you get water down there you've got a problem anyway whether the PB is moisture resistant or not. Having it moisture resistant only delays the inevitable when you get the leak.

Its the finish which includes the sealant round the bath which prevents leaks. But if you install the wall tiles poorly water will get in. If you do not prepare the floor correctly before tiling the grout will crack, tiles will lift and water will get in.

The place you really need to attention to is the area around a shower. You could use moisture resistant PB there, you could use standard pb there and tank it, you could use aquapanel. I usuall PB the lot with standard board (D&D onto brick / blockwork and screwed to stud) and tank the wet area.

You must instal an extract fan now under building regs and it must have a run on timer. Get one with a humidistat too.

Cheers

when you say tank do you mean shower enclosure? whats d&d?

thanks,

keystone

bery_451 wrote: »

when you say tank do you mean shower enclosure?

Whether its shower over bath or separate enclosure its the same - its a method of waterproofing the area before tiling. General principle HERE

whats d&d?

Dot and Dab. Look HERE. They don't put enough plasterboard adhesive on the wall to my mind BTW.

Posting these links as its easier than trying to explain it in words at this time of night.:D

Cheers

bery_451

were planning to install a thermostatic mixer shower on to the wall. How many mm gap do we need between the brickwork and plaster so the 15mm copper pipes can fit through?

how do you create the gap? is through studwork? what size studwork do we get.

Are aquapanels better than normal plasterboards?

Can i tile on aquapanels straight away without plastering and skimming it?

thanks,

ormus

easiest way is to use a batten frame and cover with say aquapanel. that way your 15mm pipes will fit inside, dead easy.
2x2 is good enough for that job.

aquapanels are far better than standard PB in a bathroom. you can tile direct on top.

bery_451

ormus wrote: »

easiest way is to use a batten frame and cover with say aquapanel. that way your 15mm pipes will fit inside, dead easy.
2x2 is good enough for that job.

aquapanels are far better than standard PB in a bathroom. you can tile direct on top.

sorry for being a newbie but what is a batten frame? is it studwork?

u mean 2m by 2m frame?

bery_451

im bumping

ormus

yes. a simple 2x2 batten frame screwed onto the bare wall. (a bit like studwork).
install the pipework ready for the mixer valve, then PB or aquapanel over the top.

good idea to install some temp isolator valves on the pipe tails, so you can test the pipes for leaks, before you panel over.

bery_451

how much is it to charge for plasterboarding and skimming a room which is 6ft x 8ft excluding ceiling? and with ceiling?

will it be cheaper if the existing plasterboard is removed so it makes the labour easier for them?

how much would it be if we supplied the materials e.g. plasterboards, adhesive etc.?

how much should we normally for the mentioned services? how do i check that they are qualified plasterers?

thanks,

ormus

300/600 quid.

dont bother with costing just the labour. the materials are dirt cheap.