Losing the will to live here...flooring (with diagram)

aliasojo

Small bedroom, putting down Quick Step. The boards are 138cm long and the room is 14 cms more than 2 full board lengths. I should add that it is Persepective 4..so it has a groove all round and the joins are meant to be a feature.

I didn't particularly want little stubby bits at the ends of the rows so I've tried to balance it out somewhat and the smallest bit is now 32cms..

I also didn't want tiny bits at the doorway and I'm not delighted at the smallest bits I've got there on the diagram but I've been at this for ages and this is the best I can do.

The instructions say the board joins should be staggered by a minimum of 15cms but that looked really close to me when I dry laid a few boards to see, so I've staggered the joins by double that.

Can you have a look and tell me if it looks ok of if there is a better way to lay the boards or where else I should have put the joins please?

Window is on the wall opposite the door btw and I realise I haven't gone 'into' the doorway but it was easier to make the diagram square, the doorway will be taken into account when the time comes.

I also know that the pattern hasn't been followed exactly when the shorter area was reached but that was because I was trying to fit in 2 boards instead of one full board and 2 shorter ends iyswim. The bed will be here too so I figured it wouldn't be so apparent.

aliasojo

Yes!

15.6cms

Will need to cut off a bit on first row because of banana wall and last row because of..... just not having enough room. :rotfl:


Edit: Should also add.....I have 35 boards. This is 7.5 square m. The room needed 6.64 square m so in theory, I have plenty. BUT...when you start playing around with joins etc, it can affect how many boards you need. I'm in the Highlands...I can't just pop out and pick another couple up.

wallbash

I think the joins should be more regular

Why ?? I have only done a few floors, but I have always tried to avoid a patten, yes a small piece is never correct . Is Quick step different ? are the joins highly visible?

keystone

Strictly a personal opinion but I think the plank end joins are far too regular - red ovals on your diagram. This is particularly since you have no joins in the areas marked by the blue ovals and that will stand out like the dogs danglers to me. So I'd be a great deal more random with the end joins.

Your transition strip will make light work of your doorway - green rectangle although for preference the planks should be long side to the door but that would then mean that light from window opposite will show up the long joints so thats a bit of a loose loose situation unfortunately.

HTH

Cheers

wallbash

preference the planks should be long side to the door

Last one I did the planks were short side to door , made installation a lot easier. I thought the general rule was the planks followed the longest wall, gave the illusion of a bigger room.If a square room , planks short end to (main)door .

keystone

My ROT is long side perpendicular to the window just like hanging ceiling paper. Then there are no shadow issues between rows of planks. Thats irrespective of the shape of the room although where its long and thin I would agree you need to take that into consideration.

Cheers

Wookey

With trying to balance out the run of joints you are probably heading for a lot of wastage, with laminate i always followed the rule of thumb for T+G solid wood flooring...start the next row with the cutting that comes from the previous row and keep following on from that.

aliasojo

Thanks for the opinions guys. I was trying to follow the installation diagram given by Quick Step....they had the joins in a pattern as above although they had the joins on the 2nd row a third of the way past the joins on the 1st row and same again for the next row etc. If I did that. I'd end up with a piece around 40/45cms at the doorway and I didn't know if that was too short or not.

They stated the floor should run parrallel to the way the light falls on the floor, which is why I put them that way on the diagram.

Wish I'd got carpet now. This isn't the easiest thing I've ever done.

aliasojo

Wookey wrote: »

With trying to balance out the run of joints you are probably heading for a lot of wastage, with laminate i always followed the rule of thumb for T+G solid wood flooring...start the next row with the cutting that comes from the previous row and keep following on from that.

That's what I started out doing but I would only have had 12cm of a stagger and it didn't look great. Quick Step said the joins should be a minimum of 15cms apart.

keystone

aliasojo wrote: »

Thanks for the opinions guys. I was trying to follow the installation diagram given by Quick Step....they had the joins in a pattern as above although they had the joins on the 2nd row a third of the way past the joins on the 1st row and same again for the next row etc.

Yes thats really what I meant so that are completely staggered.

If I did that. I'd end up with a piece around 40/45cms at the doorway and I didn't know if that was too short or not.

No I don't think thats too short at all. A little itty bitty 10cm piece would be a different story.

They stated the floor should run parrallel to the way the light falls on the floor, which is why I put them that way on the diagram.

Yup - avoids the shadows.

Wish I'd got carpet now. This isn't the easiest thing I've ever done.

You'll be fine.

Cheers

ailuro2

I would stagger them in a pattern so in the length of your room they are central....so equal lengths left at each end on the first row, then it will all tie in nicely, imho. If a job's worth doing it's worth doing right...;)