Electric connection for new oven

kat21

Actually no I posted two links the second link was to a single electric oven
and yes I did read your post and I still stand by what I say, that is that because the poster has not posted that he will be installing the same appliance caution should be used you should never assume anything until you are sure of the facts single ovens can draw more current
I have in the past wired many single ovens in as my brother owns a large kitchen company!
we always use a seperate supply to feed any oven regardless simply because it puts less strain on the other kitchen appliances (ring circuit.)
I can see there are lots of ego tistical men here
*lol*
kat21

weekendwarrior

kat21 wrote:

Actually no I posted two links the second link was to a single electric oven
and yes I did read your post and I still stand by what I say, that is that because the poster has not posted that he will be installing the same appliance caution should be used you should never assume anything until you are sure of the facts single ovens can draw more current
I have in the past wired many single ovens in as my brother owns a large kitchen company!
we always use a seperate supply to feed any oven regardless simply because it puts less strain on the other kitchen appliances (ring circuit.)
I can see there are lots of ego tistical men here
*lol*
kat21

Meowwww

I am sure that if your Brother did own a large kitchen company and you used to wire up ovens for him in the past, then you would know the difference between a cooker and an oven.

Your explanation of radial and ringed circuits is excellent, I wish I could of been to one of your lectures.

YorkshireBoy

kat21 wrote:

I also teach electrical engineering at university...

Well then, you really ought to know that you need a little bit more than Ohms Law to calculate cable and fuse sizes (ref your earlier post). I'm referring of course to diversity, installation method, grouping, ambient temperature, thermal barriers, and length of cable run - as well as the type of fuse employed, eg a 0.725 de-rating for a re-wireable fuse.

...new houses and houses that have been professionally rewired tend to have three ringed circuits so not sure where the others are posting from, they tend to be upstairs, downstairs and a separate one for the kitchen.

The rest can have any permutation at all - and I've seen a few in my time!

At the consumer unit, the cooker will require its own fuse way. A 30amp fuseway can support an appliance of up to 7.2kw providing that the control unit does not also have a socket outlet.

What about diversity? Also, you've assumed 240V in your calculation...that's not the UK's nominal voltage now is it?

YorkshireBoy

weekendwarrior wrote:

Single electric ovens are often wired to a plug and plugged into a socket. Ovens are around or below the 3kw mark and so can safely be plugged into a socket. Just like you would plug a fan heater in.

Whilst plugs do comply with 'standards', I'd always advocate the use of a fused connection unit, with DP switching and (a minimum) 3mm contact separation, wherever possible*. Plugs & sockets do tend to heat up substantially when, for example, cooking the Xmas turkey!

* I say wherever possible because, if the oven is on a maintenance contract, the service engineers will generally insist on a plug/socket arrangement to comply with their safe isolation policy.

weekendwarrior

YorkshireBoy wrote:

Whilst plugs do comply with 'standards', I'd always advocate the use of a fused connection unit, with DP switching and (a minimum) 3mm contact separation, wherever possible*. Plugs & sockets do tend to heat up substantially when, for example, cooking the Xmas turkey!

* I say wherever possible because, if the oven is on a maintenance contract, the service engineers will generally insist on a plug/socket arrangement to comply with their safe isolation policy.

I agree completely! I have fitted several single electric ovens and I have always fitted a double pole isolator above the worktop then a switched FCU below the worktop, but because of part P it is much easier to wire to oven to a plug and plug it into a socket or else I have to get either a part p registered sparks to fit it or I have to inform building control.

Another fine example of part p making home electrics safer!