kingspan or celotex

GClyde

Ok, I feel this is going to be a bit long-winded...so please bare with me...maybe you should go put the kettle on..hehehe :j

Insulating the dwarf wall (oxters/hanging post) and the horizontal ceiling above your head would finish things off for you...OH!..and don't forget about the horizontal ceiling behind the dwarf wall:j

For the horizontal bits, all that you'd need is ordinary plasterboard and a couple of layers of thermal quilt insulation. Just make sure that you maintain the 50mm air gap where the slope meets the horizontal bit above your head.

Also, the vertical dwarf wall would be treated as a wall and not a roof...using 50mm thick PUR would give a U value of around 0.36.:p

How did you upload the sketch into the post?.......as I see no way of adding images

With regard to what a U value is......well, I will try to keep this basic .........it relates to thermal transmission through a structure, and it's obtained by combining the thermal resistances of the various components and air layers that go to make up the structure and taking the reciprocal.

Each layer/component has a thermal conductivity which is expressed as a material's ability to allow heat flow through it. Different materials have different thermal conductivities.

In simple terms, I suppose you could say that the lower the U value, the higher the resistance to heat flow through the structure. Therefore, a u value of 0.21 is far better than a U value of 1.8.

I am trying not to get too technical here, but I hope this goes a little way to explain things.......;)

Regards

Graham

ds1980

OK, cant phone building officer as doing the work needs building control and i aint paying for that!!! Ha

Am i right in thinking that the insulation is calculated as part of the air gap? I wont be infilling between the rafters/battens. Dont have enough in the budget for the extra!

Sorry for all these questions.....i am just a keen learner thats all.

i wish i could upload pics!!!!!! how do i insert them onto here???

GClyde

ds1980....Air gaps are calculated as part of the U value....

I wish I knew how to upload too:j.....but I am sure some nice helpful person will come to our rescue on this

ds1980

ok now i just need to know how to make it smaller!!!!! and write on here??? oops here we go....

Brown is the wood batten (~25mm from wall), yellow the foil backed (both sides ) insulation (25mm = total 50mm from wall then the blue is plasterboard/aquapanel. (12.5mm total about 62.5mm). not done all the walls i need to do but think you get what im doing.
This is tha same principal for the roof. Electric and pipe work is to go in the 25 "void" behind the insulation and between the battens. is this now clear ?

GClyde

Hi ds1980, Your sketch looks great....how did you upload it?

With regard to services, i'd recommend that they go into a service void directly behind the plasterboard. There are known issues with cables/wires having a chemical reaction with certain types of polyurethane insulation - speak to your electrician about it, he should be able to advise you on the IEE regs - BS7671: 2008.

ds1980

ok go to: http://imageshack.us/

it says no registration required just underneath upload......browse for your jpeg or file then upload now.

then when you click the upload pic icon in MSE you want to copy the full direct link and it should work!!

OK so basically wherever i want to run stuff just cut the insulation either side as it were? Do i need to bridge the space with anything perhaps the flexi foam or something??? Grrr so near yet so far! I do have an electrician by the way so thats fine! ALthough he only comes to check the works!!! Ha

GClyde

Thanks for the link to image shack............I thought that no one was allowed to insert links into posts??

Anyway, I'd bounce this one off your electrician just to be sure. The idea is to try and keep the insulation intact. However, any gaps in the plasterboard laminate can be sealed using mastic/caulking.

ds1980

think you can after certain number of posts or number of years!!

typeractive

Hi all,

I have a query when it comes to the installation of the kingspan / celotex stuff. Perhaps others have had the same query:

I need to put the kingspan / celotex / home made equivalent up on the roof 'walls'. However the design of my ceiling space is causing me a bit of a concern. I think it will be very difficult to put the kingspan up on the pitched roof on both sides and then install my wooden battons across to form the ceiling which can be plasterboarded and which will house my ceiling lights.

So I was wondering if I could install the wooden battons, and then install the kingspan between the purlins and where the ceiling will start. I have put both scenarios into a drawing below - which hopefully will explain it better.

Cheers,

greenknight

ds1980 wrote: »

Need to insulate single brick outhouse. have narrowed it down to kingspan kooltherm 17 or celotex pl4000. Am going to dot and dab and mechanically fix. any preferences?

Hi it seems strange because there really is a big price differnece. I found the following information at planetinsulation whn looking through the celotex PL board information( table at the bottom of the page)
on this page they have compared the R values which is thermal conductivity of the two boards and it appears they are both really similar. Not sure why Kingspan is a lot more expensive? Seems to be abotu £20 more expensive a board for the kingspan . Most forums suggest they are both fairly similar to put up.
Hope this helps.