Polycarbonate sheet end caps

john-306

Anyone have an idea as to what will glue/bond these plastic end caps that fit on the end of a conservatory roof polycarbonate panel.
Getting fed up of the now keep slipping off, tried the usual superglue etc but doesn't last and just slips off again.
Thanks for any help.

its_all_gravy

Hi are they the correct ones for the polly sheet
they should be very tight when you put them on I usualy have to feed them from one side and work them on at an angle if that makes sense(not slid on from 1 end)
I have been fitting conservatories for many years and not had to glue any closers on yet:eek:

phill99

Have you tried clear silicon? Seems to stick everything. Make sure the surfaces are clean first.

john-306

its_all_gravy wrote: »

Hi are they the correct ones for the polly sheet
they should be very tight when you put them on I usualy have to feed them from one side and work them on at an angle if that makes sense(not slid on from 1 end)
I have been fitting conservatories for many years and not had to glue any closers on yet:eek:

Maybe they are tight for a few years but these ones definately slip off, not all of them but a couple do keep slipping.
What glue would you use if you had the problem?

john-306

phill99 wrote: »

Have you tried clear silicon? Seems to stick everything. Make sure the surfaces are clean first.

Thanks, not tried it but might be an option, I'll have a read up

andrew-b

I'd try "solvent cement" as used in plastic waste pipe plumbing and airfix model making..ask in your DIY store for it (wickes http://www.wickes.co.uk/Solvent-Cement/invt/431964) as it will be locked away in a metal cabinet. Had a quick google and looks like it should do the job. Be careful you don't let it spill on the wrong parts though! I'd clean the joins, roughen with sandpaper and then clean up again using some methylated spirits before glueing (wipe off excess adhesive quickly and hold in place for a short while). Wear disposable gloves and i'd wear eye protection too as you'll likely be working at eye-level for a conservatory roof.

Clear silicone would work but could look a bit messy (especially if it doesn't remain clear).

plumb1_2

andrew-b wrote: »

I'd try "solvent cement" as used in plastic waste pipe plumbing and airfix model making..ask in your DIY store for it (wickes http://www.wickes.co.uk/Solvent-Cement/invt/431964) as it will be locked away in a metal cabinet. Had a quick google and looks like it should do the job. Be careful you don't let it spill on the wrong parts though! I'd clean the joins, roughen with sandpaper and then clean up again using some methylated spirits before glueing (wipe off excess adhesive quickly and hold in place for a short while). Wear disposable gloves and i'd wear eye protection too as you'll likely be working at eye-level for a conservatory roof.

Clear silicone would work but could look a bit messy (especially if it doesn't remain clear).

Solvent cement will melt the polycard.use clear silicone,or aliminum tape.

Inactive

There is a breathable tape for this very purpose, it is silver in colour.

Not sure where you can get it.

tifrap_2

I have used silicon many times for this - it is a good long term solution that actually lasts longer than any tape. it is a far better way to finish multiwall polycarbonate sheet that tends not to be used in the trade, because it takes longer than slapping on some tape, often the wrong sort of tape which will become brittle with UV light.
It is really easy - heres how:

1 strip off the old tape or end caps.

2 get some clear silicone sealant (or match to the colour of your frame), make sure that you get high density silicone (a glazier should stock it) - get the sort that needs a gun to use it.

3 cut the nozzle to size, making sure that it is small enough to stick up the end of each cavity, but make it as large as poss to achieve this - you want the maximum flow of silicone, while still being able to 'inject' it into the cavity.

4 clean the polycarbonate - if it is new then the polycarb will be clean enough inside the cavities, if old, you will need to attempt a wipe of the inside of each cavity - do this with a rag wrapped around a square stick of the right proportions - the absolute best cleaning agent for silicone is ethyl alcohol/water mixture, meths will do, but give it time to evaporate away - white spirit leaves an oily residue that will stop adherence, don't use it, soapy water, if thats all you have, should be well rinsed off and left to dry out a bit (damp is ok, silicon needs moisture to cure, but wet is no good as it stops adherence).

5 once clean, and with perfect size nozzle - put the nozzle only just into the first cavity and give a squeeze to the trigger, just enough to push the silicone 10 to 15 mm into the cavity - you will notice the ideal depth, as the silicone will squeeze itself into the corners after a few mm.
Take note of how much of a squeeze you need to do, and repeat it for each cavity along that sheet - you will quickly develop a rythm, that will make each 'plug' look even. don't worry about blobs, or strings at the edge of the sheet yet.

if you are doing this to a multi-cavity sheet - say a four cavity sheet, you will find that the last cavity in each section has been squeezed smaller by the pressure from the previous fills, this cavity will need less silicone, and may need to be widened to get the nozzle in properly.

6 when you get to the end of a single sheet. put the gun down. now go back to the first cavity, wet your fingers in a bowl of water and dab the end flat, taking care of any plobs/strings by pushing them lightly into the mass of silicon - you will need to keep wetting your hand or the silicone will stick to you - (you can use a very wet stick, but it is far more tricky). the edge effect that you are after should be quite flush with the edge of the poly sheet, ie. no thick bead silicone running along the edge of the sheet.

6a I have in the past taped over the wet silicone with masking tape, just to make a neat face while it cures - and then removing it. the cure can be sped up by misting with water.

7 do all of the rest of the sheets in the same manner.

There is no need to use any end-cap or tape, over the new silicone.
As with all silicone jobs, make sure that you have got plenty of wipe material available (a roll of kitchen towel or two is good), you will need to clean the outside of the nozzle if it gets gummy, and your hands too.

meths is good for cleaning hands of silicone, before it sets.

get in the habit of releasing the pressure on the gun at the end of a run, so you dont get that slow ooze, and waste loads.

There I think that about covers it.
enjoy.

john-306

Very informative. Thank you:)

Looks like getting some silicon this weekend.