Electric works

bjd_2

keystone wrote: »

But you said it was a power shower and your concern was with the way its connected to the volts!! Now I'm confused TBH. What have you got fitted?

Sorry, I fail in clarity. I think I meant to say it was a triton thermostatic shower. It's a white box stuck on the wall which I assume has a pump built in. I assumed you were talking about an external/standalone pump.

My concern is the electrics, it's just hooked up to a 3 pin socket in another room which I need to get sorted. I think this is pretty much covered in previous posts.

In hindsight, perhaps I should have got a pumped electric shower as I'm on economy 7 and no mains gas. Oh well

1984ReturnsForReal_2

Unless you told him beforehand that it was ok to plug the shower into a socket in the next room get him back in to put it right..

Not that he can fix it because he obviously isnt qualified to do it properly otherwise he wouldnt of bypassed the regulations.

DVardysShadow

keystone wrote: »

Sorry to disagree but pragmatically there is everything wrong with it. The OP only thinks its a thermo rather than a mixer. In any case the shower should have separate supplies from both the CWST and the HW cylinder. If it doesn't opening the kitchen hot tap will affect supply to the shower irrespective of where it's tee'd off. Running a bath and operating the shower at the same time is, frankly in this scenario, not too relevant.

Cheers

Running a bath and a shower or not is very relevant. except it shows the limit of the extent you need to go to with separate feeds. You don't want a completely radial system with a separate hot water feed to every single hot water device [probably 4 in this scenario]. I would agree however that you don't want the thermostatic shower and a kitchen tap sharing a length of 15 mm pipe. It is absolutely inevitable that they will share several meters of 22mm pipe, however.

keystone

DVardysShadow wrote: »

You don't want a completely radial system with a separate hot water feed to every single hot water device [probably 4 in this scenario].

Of course not. You are correct.

I would agree however that you don't want the thermostatic shower and a kitchen tap sharing a length of 15 mm pipe.

Exactly.

It is absolutely inevitable that they will share several meters of 22mm pipe, however.

Its only inevitable if its plumbed incorrectly. The shower requires separate feeds from the rest of the DHW system. That is achieved by fitting an appropriate flange to the DHW cylinder (Essex, Surrey, Yorkshire, Warix) so that the shower independently draws hot direct from the cylinder and an additional independent cold feed direct from the base of the CWST. It is acceptable to draw the HW supply from the vent directly above the cylinder but that inevitably means altering the vent piping to avoid air being sucked down the vent into the pump. What I have described is the correct way to fit a shower on an open vented system. There is no other way that is not a bodge and I would not install one any other way.

If we have to disagree on this point then so be it but you might like to check out the installation instructions for any shower pump.

Cheers

keystone

bjd wrote: »

Sorry, I fail in clarity.

LoL we all do that from time to time - don't worry about it.

I think I meant to say it was a triton thermostatic shower. It's a white box stuck on the wall which I assume has a pump built in. I assumed you were talking about an external/standalone pump.

Thats fine - pump may be external or integrated as I hinted at in my earlier post.

My concern is the electrics, it's just hooked up to a 3 pin socket in another room which I need to get sorted. I think this is pretty much covered in previous posts.

Yes thats our concern too. You man has done it incorrectly, it needs to be redone properly and yes, we have already covered it.

In hindsight, perhaps I should have got a pumped electric shower as I'm on economy 7 and no mains gas. Oh well

Perhaps but in that case the way that he has wired it would be very, very dangerous.

Cheers

DVardysShadow

keystone wrote: »

It is absolutely inevitable that ... [kitchen tap and shower] ... will share several meters of 22mm pipe, however.

Its only inevitable if its plumbed incorrectly. The shower requires separate feeds from the rest of the DHW system. That is achieved by fitting an appropriate flange to the DHW cylinder (Essex, Surrey, Yorkshire, Warix) so that the shower independently draws hot direct from the cylinder and an additional independent cold feed direct from the base of the CWST. It is acceptable to draw the HW supply from the vent directly above the cylinder but that inevitably means altering the vent piping to avoid air being sucked down the vent into the pump. What I have described is the correct way to fit a shower on an open vented system. There is no other way that is not a bodge and I would not install one any other way.

If we have to disagree on this point then so be it but you might like to check out the installation instructions for any shower pump.

Cheers

Even doing your way WILL result in kitchen tap and shower sharing several metres of 22mm pipe. The will both share the same feed to the cylinder from the header tank, and the fact that this pipework is before the cylinder has no bearing on the fact that it will impede flow to the shower to the same extent as if it were after the cylinder.

So, the separate flanges are a complete waste of effort.

keystone

DVardysShadow wrote: »

Even doing your way WILL result in kitchen tap and shower sharing several metres of 22mm pipe. The will both share the same feed to the cylinder from the header tank, and the fact that this pipework is before the cylinder has no bearing on the fact that it will impede flow to the shower to the same extent as if it were after the cylinder.

So, the separate flanges are a complete waste of effort.

Oh good grief! The inputs to the storage facilites are totally irrelevant. It's the outputs from them that matter and thats why you isolate the shower from the remainder of the system by giving it independent supplies! Its also why, in some cases, its necessary to replace the CWST on an open vented system when fitting a shower to ensure it has adequate capacity to meet supply demands. What is the flow rate through the cylinder for a given pressure compared with the flow rate through a length of 22m or 15mm pipe?

Cheers

bjd_2

So.. I thought I'd post an update.

I wrote to the guy and in the letter I explained that I was unhappy with the electrics and some minor plumbing stuff (basically water leaking between the tap and basin via the tap hole). I asked him not to bother with the electrics if he couldn't self certify and I would get an electrician in to sort it.

Since then the plug powering the shower was replaced with a plug-in RCD unit. I'm guessing this still doesn't meet the part P requirements (and he *still* can't self-certify).

I have also noticed that the water feeds supplying the shower don't have those isolator valves. So if I needed to take the shower out of action in the future I'd have to turn off the water for the flat. Not really ideal IMO. Is it building regs now that state each appliance needs valves so water can be turned off for that outlet only?

Anyway, I don't want to be picky but I've completely lost confidence/faith in the guy and I want out. How does this work in terms of payment for labour and materials he has bought for me i.e. the bath & shower etc?